• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Cathode Bias Resistor and Capacitor Values

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Hi, I am reworking a Cathode Biased KT88 Amplifier. I have only discovered this mode of operation since picking this amplifier up. It uses 2 x KT88s Per Channel. Presently it uses a single 300 ohm resistor,bypassed with a 100uF capacitor. I have been reading various articles about configuration and it appears the general consensus is separate resistor/capacitors for each cathode is the way to go. I would think to keep the status quo, I would use a 600 ohm resistor for each cathode? But not sure about capacitor. Been advised elsewhere to increase value. Not 100% with this. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Some basic measurements I have taken. Anode to Cathode 420, voltage drop across the 300 ohm resistor 42.

Any advice greatly appreciated.
 
Estimating the gm to be about 10mA/V the internal cathode resistance will be in the region of 100 ohms. Plug this into the standard filter equation and use a pleasingly low frequency, say 5Hz:

C = 1 / (2 PI f R) = 1 / (2 * PI * 5 * 100) = 318uF

So yes, you want more than 100uF. Anything from about 220uF to 1000uF might be worth trying. Be generous with the voltage rating (e.g. use 100V caps), as the cathode voltage may climb high when the amp is first switched on and the coupling caps are still charging.
 
Last edited:
Aug said:
OK, wasn't 100% whether it was a feedback type thing going on, similar to electrolytic in feedback path of solid state amplifiers.
The cathode decoupling cap prevents local feedback.

Just as an aside, cathode bias seems to be one of the less used o/p stage configurations, what's your view on it?
Cathode resistor bias is by far the most common method used in output stages and elsewhere. It is simple, cheap and reliable. It automatically adjusts for valve differences and ageing.
 
cathode bias seems to be one of the less used o/p stage configurations, what's your view on it?
You don't see it used much with big bottles like KT88s. Traditionally, if you're going to the expense of using big bottles, presumably it's because you want mucho power, so presumably you don't want to waste precious voltage swing by cathode biasing.

I suppose an argument could be made for doing things the other way around:
Use cathode bias with big bottles because they'll still give you 'more power than you need', cathode biasing provides better protection for those big expensive valves / transformers, and the grid leak resistance can be maximised so it doesn't tax the driver stage. Use fixed bias for small bottles because they don't need much negative voltage (e.g. easier to generate), the driver can cope with heavier grid-leak loading since it doesn't have to swing as many volts, and the output stage is more likely to be driven to clipping so polite overload recovery is important. Six of one, half a dozen of the other.
 
OK, you guys have given me a lot of insight into bits I was struggling to understand. At the risk of completely disproving this, could I suggest in this mode of operation, the split cathode resistors for each tube acts almost like emitter resistors in a solid state amp. I'll let you know how I get on and post some pics once I've finished. Thanks again.
 
Estimating the gm to be about 10mA/V the internal cathode resistance will be in the region of 100 ohms. Plug this into the standard filter equation and use a pleasingly low frequency, say 5Hz:

C = 1 / (2 PI f R) = 1 / (2 * PI * 5 * 100) = 318uF

So yes, you want more than 100uF. Anything from about 220uF to 1000uF might be worth trying. Be generous with the voltage rating (e.g. use 100V caps), as the cathode voltage may climb high when the amp is first switched on and the coupling caps are still charging.

Where do you find an "internal" cathaode resistance spec., and doesn't a 600R cathode resistor fit into the equation somehow?
 
Hi, it's PP. I was trying to work out how much of the o/p is class a, if it's presumably a/b. Measuring the volt drop across the Cathode Resistor while driving the Amp to clipping reveals no change in consumed current. Does this indicate it's Class A? If not how can I test it's class a credentials?
 
If the voltage across the cathode resistor does not change with signal then this indicates Class A. A small change with signal may still indicate Class A, as second order distortion will do this. Class B would give a large change with signal, which is why Class B amps need to use fixed bias. The division into Class A, B etc. is never quite as clear in the real world as it appears in textbooks.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.