There shouldn't be any recognizable differences in terms of skin or surface effects, because a solid conductor or a stranded one with non-isolated strands shouldn't behave differently - except being flexible - in this aspect as both have (almost) identical properties because the strands touch each other conductively and will behave practically like a solid one with small inclusions of air in between the strands. This would be different, if each and ever strand had been individually isolated. But at frequencies this low it will not make any difference at all anyways...
And then you get into stuff like litz wire - great for long wave AM radio applications, less so for audio.
Indeed.
I did some "experimental" twisting using solid core copper wire for the speaker connections on the NC400.
Two 2.5mm² wires worked just fine, winding up neatly and straight, whilts doing it with 2x 2.5mm² ones in a quad configuaration ended up in some "knots" and uneven coiling up. The strain on the speaker clamps on the NC400 boards might probably be to much too for this type of configuration. The wires must be thinner then (1.5 mm² ?), if one wants solid core plus quad configuration.
I used a hand-held drill at very slow speed for twisting the conductors together.
Those 2.5mm² just fit "snuggly" inside the clamps all the way through, even if not fully straightend out.
Therefore i will take this turn.
Two 2.5mm² wires worked just fine, winding up neatly and straight, whilts doing it with 2x 2.5mm² ones in a quad configuaration ended up in some "knots" and uneven coiling up. The strain on the speaker clamps on the NC400 boards might probably be to much too for this type of configuration. The wires must be thinner then (1.5 mm² ?), if one wants solid core plus quad configuration.
I used a hand-held drill at very slow speed for twisting the conductors together.
Those 2.5mm² just fit "snuggly" inside the clamps all the way through, even if not fully straightend out.
Therefore i will take this turn.
I have owned both Hypex Ncore 400 mono's and NAD M2. But it's impossible to make a comparison, as the M2 is an amp and DAC in one. The DAC in front of the NC400 will have big influence on how it sounds.
The M2 stayed a lot longer than the NC400's. And I've thought a few times on buying an M2 again... But as I've told before, the source has a big infuence on the sound the NC400 will produce. So I am not going to say the M2 sounds better than the NC400. But in my setup I liked it more. However I would like if I could test the NC400 again in my current setup, as I have the NAD C510 DAC, which should be similar to the DAC used in the M2. Just to see how it keeps up to my current FO V1.3 amps.
(Un-)Fortunately
Have you received the cases yet? Does it all fit well?
I got those 2 days ago.
Although the Hypex Mono cases are made by Ghentaudio too, i am not that satified with the quality of the cases i received, especially the stereo one (I am building both types because of space constrains).
The holes for the two NCore module have been added afterwards to a standard mono case and they are rather mediocre in terms of drill quality. In contrary to the rest of the holes they are not anodized black, like the other ones, but the alumium material is visible (silvery) and the surface of those look somewhat "rough". The routing of the cables is not abvious for that version either, because the amp modules take up almost all the available width.
I got the new stereo PS wiring harness (for 2x NC400 + SMPS1200A400) and adapter board from Hypex today and it (naturally) doesn't fit in that tight space. Just working on an upside down mounting pos for this one right now. The two XLR connectors, which came with it, are made by Neutrik but seem to be the cheapest version available (plastic housing Type A).
Due to the rather small size of the cut outs for these i couldn't find anything else which fits here instead. The mono one has a XLR femal connector of standard quality (metal case).
The rest looks rather well thought out and the outside finish (printing) is fine. I mounted all three amp modules and both power supplies already using a thermal compound underneath for better heat dissipation. Will see, how the heat will built up after some time running. The provided slots and holes for ventilation are mostly blocked after mounting all components inside. I might add some more on my own, if heat becomes a problem afterwards.
Next thing will be soldering the wiring...
Although the Hypex Mono cases are made by Ghentaudio too, i am not that satified with the quality of the cases i received, especially the stereo one (I am building both types because of space constrains).
The holes for the two NCore module have been added afterwards to a standard mono case and they are rather mediocre in terms of drill quality. In contrary to the rest of the holes they are not anodized black, like the other ones, but the alumium material is visible (silvery) and the surface of those look somewhat "rough". The routing of the cables is not abvious for that version either, because the amp modules take up almost all the available width.
I got the new stereo PS wiring harness (for 2x NC400 + SMPS1200A400) and adapter board from Hypex today and it (naturally
) doesn't fit in that tight space. Just working on an upside down mounting pos for this one right now. The two XLR connectors, which came with it, are made by Neutrik but seem to be the cheapest version available (plastic housing Type A). Due to the rather small size of the cut outs for these i couldn't find anything else which fits here instead. The mono one has a XLR femal connector of standard quality (metal case).
The rest looks rather well thought out and the outside finish (printing) is fine. I mounted all three amp modules and both power supplies already using a thermal compound underneath for better heat dissipation. Will see, how the heat will built up after some time running. The provided slots and holes for ventilation are mostly blocked after mounting all components inside. I might add some more on my own, if heat becomes a problem afterwards.
Next thing will be soldering the wiring...
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One more question about soldering the speaker wiring.
I read, that it is suggested to solder the wiruíng to the terminal by removing all plastic spacers beforehand, because they could be damaged partially during soldering.
What soldering iron wattage has been used by others ? How did they handle this, because i am using solid core wires and they have to be connected first to the speaker clamps on the NC400s to be twisted properly after mounting: They are quite stiff...
I read, that it is suggested to solder the wiruíng to the terminal by removing all plastic spacers beforehand, because they could be damaged partially during soldering.
What soldering iron wattage has been used by others ? How did they handle this, because i am using solid core wires and they have to be connected first to the speaker clamps on the NC400s to be twisted properly after mounting: They are quite stiff...
No, the Ghent alloy cases for the BC400 are fine in this respect. They are not "flimsy" in any way. And the looks front / rear is ok. The IEC connector is of a rather cheap variety, the integrated switch is dual pole.
I am objecting somewhat to the selection of the supplied parts, like the Neutrik XLR connectors for instance. They are D-Norm and feature a metal housing, but the one on the mono case doesn't feature anything contacting the amps case as supplied, thus making it rather hard to get an intimate low resistance contact between the case and the XLR housing. Although M3 versions are available it is a nuts and bolts connection here. Anodized (passivated) alumium is not well known for a "low contact resistance" surface whilts looking pretty, making it rather hard to achieve any good contact if not sanded or anything penetrating the surface. And the connction to the case should be done at the XLRs, where the braiding of the input cable is attached.
I am scratching my heard right now, if i should use somthing like a saw tooth washer in between, but that doesn't look pretty...
The ventilation holes/slots at the bottom for the inlet of cold air are rather useless when looking at the stereo case kit in my opinion, because they are covered mostly by the components installed. There should be more of those and more evenly distributed. I probably have to add some on my own.
I am just wondering, if all the cases supplied feature the same parts or if there are variants out there due to different parts avialable at the time of delivery.
Thus my feelings about those Ghent case kits are somewhat mixed right now.
I don't know about the quality of other available case kits and as such can't compare to anything. I looked for the siliconray one beforehand, but they don't seem to be in business anymore. But they where supposed to be of lower quality anyway, as mentioned in some reviews, than the Ghentaudio case kits. Don't know, if the Hypex mono kit is exactly the same except for differences in the design of the front plate.
I am objecting somewhat to the selection of the supplied parts, like the Neutrik XLR connectors for instance. They are D-Norm and feature a metal housing, but the one on the mono case doesn't feature anything contacting the amps case as supplied, thus making it rather hard to get an intimate low resistance contact between the case and the XLR housing. Although M3 versions are available it is a nuts and bolts connection here. Anodized (passivated) alumium is not well known for a "low contact resistance" surface whilts looking pretty, making it rather hard to achieve any good contact if not sanded or anything penetrating the surface. And the connction to the case should be done at the XLRs, where the braiding of the input cable is attached.
I am scratching my heard right now, if i should use somthing like a saw tooth washer in between, but that doesn't look pretty...
The ventilation holes/slots at the bottom for the inlet of cold air are rather useless when looking at the stereo case kit in my opinion, because they are covered mostly by the components installed. There should be more of those and more evenly distributed. I probably have to add some on my own.
I am just wondering, if all the cases supplied feature the same parts or if there are variants out there due to different parts avialable at the time of delivery.
Thus my feelings about those Ghent case kits are somewhat mixed right now.
I don't know about the quality of other available case kits and as such can't compare to anything. I looked for the siliconray one beforehand, but they don't seem to be in business anymore. But they where supposed to be of lower quality anyway, as mentioned in some reviews, than the Ghentaudio case kits. Don't know, if the Hypex mono kit is exactly the same except for differences in the design of the front plate.
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You sure the connection from pin 1 to Neutrik shell isn't integral to the connector? Neutrik manages this a couple of ways depending on the series/model. Some have a pin connected to the shell which is conveniently close to pin 1 and a dab of solder can connect them together. Others have pin 1 already connected to the shell so you don't have to do anything.
It's the cable connector side which determines how the shielding in the cable meets the shell of the enclosure connector. Note how the EMC series wrap the shield fully around the cable connector shell for a full shield connection to the enclosure receptacle.
Just take the anodising on the rear/inside of the enclosure (where it meets the Neutrik connector) off with caustic soda. You don't need a large area to be stripped if the Neutrik connector is a model with a metal shell. Easy peasy. (Where glasses and don't breath the fumes.)
PS: even if you wanted to change the Neutrik connectors and add in a good IEC inlet with filter that won't cost very much. Try designing an enclosure with, say, Modu with full engraving and front panel work - you'll fast see that components such a connectors are rounding error in the total cost!
PPS: if you want to touch up any black anodised aluminium, for example that has been drilled after anodising, get yourself some Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black. Most people just use a permanent marker but I find that can leave a blue tint. This is much better.
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refinishing/Metal-Finishing/Aluminum-Black-Touch-Up.aspx
It's the cable connector side which determines how the shielding in the cable meets the shell of the enclosure connector. Note how the EMC series wrap the shield fully around the cable connector shell for a full shield connection to the enclosure receptacle.
Just take the anodising on the rear/inside of the enclosure (where it meets the Neutrik connector) off with caustic soda. You don't need a large area to be stripped if the Neutrik connector is a model with a metal shell. Easy peasy. (Where glasses and don't breath the fumes.)
PS: even if you wanted to change the Neutrik connectors and add in a good IEC inlet with filter that won't cost very much. Try designing an enclosure with, say, Modu with full engraving and front panel work - you'll fast see that components such a connectors are rounding error in the total cost!
PPS: if you want to touch up any black anodised aluminium, for example that has been drilled after anodising, get yourself some Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black. Most people just use a permanent marker but I find that can leave a blue tint. This is much better.
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refinishing/Metal-Finishing/Aluminum-Black-Touch-Up.aspx
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My conclusion:
I drilled a small hole and added a M3 thread to the Neutrik XLR insert. On the opposing side of the back plate i removed a small amount of the anodized surface by drilling somewhat into it. A M3 screw now contacts the backplate intimately. This should do it for the ground connection to the case (hopefully). Steel screw contacting the alumium plate should not be a problem...
Next thing will be soldering the balanced input cable and the speaker wires to the posts. Nobody responded yet about the needed wattage for the soldering iron and how he soldered the speaker leads to the posts without "burning" those insulating plastic washers underneath the speaker posts as mentioned by some.
I drilled a small hole and added a M3 thread to the Neutrik XLR insert. On the opposing side of the back plate i removed a small amount of the anodized surface by drilling somewhat into it. A M3 screw now contacts the backplate intimately. This should do it for the ground connection to the case (hopefully). Steel screw contacting the alumium plate should not be a problem...
Next thing will be soldering the balanced input cable and the speaker wires to the posts. Nobody responded yet about the needed wattage for the soldering iron and how he soldered the speaker leads to the posts without "burning" those insulating plastic washers underneath the speaker posts as mentioned by some.
Regarding the soldering: it does not really matter. One can also screw it up with a very light iron. I use a 50 - 80 watt at 380 C with lead solder. Just be sure the first coat the cable and post with some solder. This helps a lot in making a propper 'weld'. It mostly depends on your skills [emoji5]
I didn't think about a "light" soldering iron, but just the opposite, more heavy metal. Something from 100 Watt upwards, because the less wattage, the less heat can be applied, making the task of heating up that rather large piece of metal more time consuming (sometimes even impossible) and tedious. Which makes it more likely to burn that plastic.
My soldering skills shouldn't be that bad because i have done alot of DIY before, but the years have passed by...
My soldering skills shouldn't be that bad
because i have done alot of DIY before, but the years have passed by... Unfortunatelly the cutout for the IEC inlet incl. switch in the Ghentaudio case is rather small and i haven't found anything which fits instead incl. a mains filter. Everything i looked at is larger in size.
I don't like to rework the cutout mechanically, because everything is anodized black and this would ruin in my opinion the appearance of the back plate. To bad...
Ghent Audio case is suppose to customize solely for the components that come with the case. You'e trying to replace it's IEC inlet/switch with one with integrated filter ?
If you really want to change so many components away from the supplied one, should customize one instead of getting the casing kit from GhentAudio.
I would also guess that Ghent audio case to be same as those offered by Hypex (except for the slight different on front panel design). Think Hypex get them from Ghent.
If you really want to change so many components away from the supplied one, should customize one instead of getting the casing kit from GhentAudio.
I would also guess that Ghent audio case to be same as those offered by Hypex (except for the slight different on front panel design). Think Hypex get them from Ghent.
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My opinion: Some of the choices made by Ghentaudio don't seem so well thought out, especially in the case of the stereo unit, which is quite crammed inside and lacks the ventilation holes in the backplate like the mono case. All the other ones in the bottom plate are covered by the mounted components. Thus it might get somewhat "hot" inside after some time. We'll see...
I don't like the cheap looking (probably are) plastic XLR connectors made by Neutrix on this version either. The ones on the mono housing are much more solid.
Seems, that i have to live with it so.
PS.: The new wiring harness + the small PCB going with it for the interface of a SMPS1200A400 + 2x NC400 is looking nice, but I haven't found it yet in the Hypex shop.
Not sure, if the components included with the Hypex version are really identical.
I don't like the cheap looking (probably are) plastic XLR connectors made by Neutrix on this version either. The ones on the mono housing are much more solid.
Seems, that i have to live with it so.
PS.: The new wiring harness + the small PCB going with it for the interface of a SMPS1200A400 + 2x NC400 is looking nice, but I haven't found it yet in the Hypex shop.
Not sure, if the components included with the Hypex version are really identical.
I still don't understand why Ghent cramp 2 x NC400 into a supposedly mono casing.
Video on Hypex casing - you can see if there are differences (inclusive components as well).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMm4GsUDyLI
Previously offered by SiliconRay, they have a stereo casing that was bigger.
Wondering what happen to them now ??
Video on Hypex casing - you can see if there are differences (inclusive components as well).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMm4GsUDyLI
Previously offered by SiliconRay, they have a stereo casing that was bigger.
Wondering what happen to them now ??
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