DIY subwoofer build 18" Dayton ?

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Hello forum......I have been contemplating this for a while. I have read a lot of the threads here on the forum.
I would really like to build an 18" inch sub. PE has a pretty good kit....cabinet, Dayton driver and a plate amp.......are these kits any good for a beginner like me?
Dayton Ultimax 18" driver / knock-down cabinet / 1000watt plate amp.

Any info or suggestions would be awesome.

I would prefer sealed cabinet tuned to around 20hz..........
 
Running the numbers thru the SIM, I get a sealed at 272 Liters worth.
For a cabinet of .816M by .647M by .514M in size, Qtc of .707, -3 Db @ 26.04 Hrtz.

Going ported gets wicked, a cabinet of 521 Liters (1.014M by .805M by .638M)
A big ol' 200mm Diameter port, 669mm long, for an Earth shaking -3.05 Db @ 13.04 Hrtz.


----------------------------------------------------------Rick..........
 
Pretty sure he meant he would like a sealed box with in room extension to 20 hz. That's what I would assume anyway, he is a self proclaimed beginner and probably doesn't know the lingo yet.

The kit is probably fine, the parts are decent so you could definitely do worse. As long as the price is right and it's what you want it should be fine. Personally I'd skip the knock down box if it's more expensive than the price of raw wood. Home Depot will cut any wood you buy into dimensioned panels and you can get a jigsaw for $15 or a router for $40 and then you have a new tool too.

DIYSOUNDGROUP also has kits but they only cater to the US crowd.
 
Richard....where do I find 'the SIM'?
Just out of interest....could you port the available cabinet? Then it would go a bit lower, I guess.......
I already have a Jamo d600 sub....which performs quite admirably(even on music!).....I was just wondering about adding a bit more 'performance'.........,,
 
I haven't simmed these, I'm not too interested in sealed boxes but I imagine a bit of eq or dsp would give you whatever you want. Maybe even the bass knob alone might be enough, but a bit of processing in the chain never hurts.

Or you could skip the box and go IB to keep system q down.

Or choose a different driver, there's a few other drivers in this price range, the Dayton RSS is a bit less money, or you could get almost two of the SI 18s for this price. Or a few 15 inch drivers instead. The choices are endless.
 
What program are you using? The new WinISD 0.7.0.9 calcs 453 L for a 0.707 Qtc.

For vented, 396 L/14 Hz works for me, but the vent is so large, long, it needs to be built as an inverse tapered TL [TQWT].

GM

WinISD beta. I'll double-check the input parameters, the one I got was the Two-ohm###Two ohm, DVC, wired in series.



_____________________________________________________Rick............
 
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Ultimax-18 Driver puts out but will MDF box survive?

This is the response of the UM-18 (using the present T/S specs on PE's site).
I also included a ported 7 ft^3 box tuned to 20 Hz just for kicks.

UM-18.PNG

The kit uses a 4 ft^3 knockdown MDF box.
P/N 300-7099 $355.00
It is currently out of stock.
Dayton Audio 18" Ultimax Subwoofer and Cabinet Package

It does look like, with some EQ you could get some respectable 30 Hz response.
- 3 dB at around 30 Hz and -10 dB below 20 Hz with no EQ.

Hornresponse gives similar results for a sealed alignment, even at 66 V drive levels (1,000 W).
Hrsp. shows - 3 dB at ~ 30 Hz and -10 dB at 19.5 Hz With no EQ required.

UM-18_1000W.PNG

At this drive point in the small 4 ft. box no HP filter is even required.
18.5 mm excursion @ 20.5 Hz (Xmax = 22 mm)
UM-18 4 ft kit box from PE.PNG

Dave


PS I bought one of the 12" UM-12 2 ft^3 kits to use as a fill in sub.
I am now looking to build another, larger, different alignment cabinet possibly using 2 of the 12" Ultimax drivers FWIW.
 

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Here's what I did for the Ultimax 15, pretty sure they're the first generation. I've got two of these doing LFE duty (just effects)...still not sure I'm going to keep them in these enclosures, but..fwiw...

Edit: Yes, I know, not a knockdown cab...but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do!
 

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Wow...awesome...thanks for all the info. I am getting up to speed on the lingo quickly!
My intentions are to use the sub in a hometheater setting..........will this PE-kit go low enough? In the ad, PE mentions an f3 of 27hz.........with the 4 cuft cabinet. Of course I realize that it is room dependant too......my room is about 4.5m x 3.5m.......14ft x 11ft or so..........
Of course f3 of 20hz would be ideal....but, I guess that is kinda' overkill, as not to many movies go that low. Which do?
I think I'll go ahead and order the kit..........my first diy sub kit attempt.......I will post as I go along.
What paint/surface finishing do you fellas use? I would like mine to look good in black....
 
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It'll all come down to how much of the bass that's in modern movies you want to produce.

Databass of Movies with Deep Bass (DMDB) at Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

Most modern action movies will shred drywall with content that's quite low, if you go to the trouble of trying to reproduce it. The question of it going low enough really comes down to personal wishes, and how much space+time+cash you're willing to throw at it.

For casual movie watching, 20 ish would probably be satisfactory, but if you really want to have a party, there are plenty of tapped horns and such that will get you into the low teens, and there's no shortage of movies that have effects right down into the single digits.
 
Most modern action movies will shred drywall with content that's quite low.........

Absolutely and if you want to reproduce all of some recorded pipe organ symphonies at anywhere near live levels they can literally cause a stippled drywall ceiling to 'rain' down on you if your home's/room's construction isn't massive enough to push its Fs down below 14 Hz, which I erroneously assumed all typical house construction would have. :(

GM
 
Beware the sub

I was going to build a greenhouse as a lean to on the side of my house. (10' X 28')
I framed it, and closed it in using USB instead of the windows for winter in 2001.
I still have not installed the 54" X 72" double pane, 3/16" glass low E windows and they are sitting in my
living room all wrapped up cozily in 2" foam with window spacers of 1" foam.

There is one less now as I put a Lab-12 based sub close to them and cranked up the Crown xti-1002 driving it.

Live and learn

Dave
 
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