It's been a while since there's been much discussion of coatings and tweaks. These were a big deal back in the days of Radio Shack drivers and 69c specials.
Anyhow what are you folks doing these days?
I still like the traditional Japanese audiophile dammar varnish, usually thinned by half, or mixed from crystals to the equivalent strength. It can overdamp HF if you're not careful.
Sometimes I'll use shellac. The normal blonde stuff dries very hard and tends to increase HF. I'll usually use it on a dustcap only, in conjunction with dammar. The darker grades of shellac, garnet or ruby, or a little softer and work fine by themselves.
I've tried puzzlecoat, diluted PVA glue, latex, hairspray, and even oil varnish at various times. They all have their pluses and minuses, and can be useful.
Anyhow what are you folks doing these days?
I still like the traditional Japanese audiophile dammar varnish, usually thinned by half, or mixed from crystals to the equivalent strength. It can overdamp HF if you're not careful.
Sometimes I'll use shellac. The normal blonde stuff dries very hard and tends to increase HF. I'll usually use it on a dustcap only, in conjunction with dammar. The darker grades of shellac, garnet or ruby, or a little softer and work fine by themselves.
I've tried puzzlecoat, diluted PVA glue, latex, hairspray, and even oil varnish at various times. They all have their pluses and minuses, and can be useful.
I just posted in the K'nator thread - but repeat here because you made this a new topic.
Here is an interesting "full range" driver that is not too expensive, made of paper, and has "Fostex-like" or "MA-like" peaks. It may sound fine as-is, but would be interesting to play with and add special sauce recipes to tame those peaks. For $18, a lot better than possibly ruining the nice grey charcoal bincho kenaf paper cone FF105WK.
http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/...ions-46131.pdf
Special sauce guinea pig?
Here is an interesting "full range" driver that is not too expensive, made of paper, and has "Fostex-like" or "MA-like" peaks. It may sound fine as-is, but would be interesting to play with and add special sauce recipes to tame those peaks. For $18, a lot better than possibly ruining the nice grey charcoal bincho kenaf paper cone FF105WK.
http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/...ions-46131.pdf
Special sauce guinea pig?
The other one to tweak as I mentioned in the TC9 thread to mod a TC9FD. It already has a coated paper cone and is quite smooth in response already - so not sure if any sauces are needed or would be any better. Maybe dremel tool smoothing edges of plastic basket? Adding plumbers putty to plastic basket frame? Felt absorber on rear magnet? Pole piece vent mods and removing dust cap? Replace with phase plug? For $12 ea you can't really mess up beyond price of a lunch.
which PE #? - can't get the link to work -PA130 and the MCM equivalent are pretty smooth from the getgo - thinned damar is ok on piezo paper cones - Magnetar liked Behlens violin varnish - does Bastanis use oil mixed with varnish? (assuming the two can mix -?)
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/make-your-own-oil-varnish-blend/
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/make-your-own-oil-varnish-blend/
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it lacks the detail of say 4fe32 but is good on vocals - MCM has about the same speaker for $10.39 but their shipping cost can be high
MCM version in a vented enclosure with no damping - I think the drive level on
the sine sweep was high - not to overload the mic/soundcard but to play the speaker loud
IIRC, this speaker was near a house wall and sitting up a bit off the ground for the sweep
- perhaps a good sauce would bring out flavor - P10 is an experienced cook so might
suggest something. Perhaps the inner portion could be hardened then use a milder sauce for the
rest of the cone - maybe some surround damping.
I'm not sure how to link MCM products - the number is 55-1595 so maybe this crazy link would work (?)
http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LE.../55-1595/RK=0/RS=pkI1oFT6jRuaF3lMBIYt1sDshDY-
if one orders 4 then the price is ~$12.39 per driver shipped
MCM version in a vented enclosure with no damping - I think the drive level on
the sine sweep was high - not to overload the mic/soundcard but to play the speaker loud
IIRC, this speaker was near a house wall and sitting up a bit off the ground for the sweep
- perhaps a good sauce would bring out flavor - P10 is an experienced cook so might
suggest something. Perhaps the inner portion could be hardened then use a milder sauce for the
rest of the cone - maybe some surround damping.
I'm not sure how to link MCM products - the number is 55-1595 so maybe this crazy link would work (?)
http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LE.../55-1595/RK=0/RS=pkI1oFT6jRuaF3lMBIYt1sDshDY-
if one orders 4 then the price is ~$12.39 per driver shipped
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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try the link below - it works for me - not sure if the same driver but superficially very close
http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LE.../55-1595/RK=0/RS=pkI1oFT6jRuaF3lMBIYt1sDshDY-
http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LE.../55-1595/RK=0/RS=pkI1oFT6jRuaF3lMBIYt1sDshDY-
both are usable drivers - here's a PA130 project Small, Hi-Efficiency DIY Speaker
walters IIRC uses PA130 in a klam. PA130 can play pretty loud in a K or a klam - should work in a Karlsonator - would its parameters
apply to a little XKi?
walters IIRC uses PA130 in a klam. PA130 can play pretty loud in a K or a klam - should work in a Karlsonator - would its parameters
apply to a little XKi?
All that stuff!
As you suggest, since the cone of the TC9 is already coated and therefore highly damped, you are not likely to make any big improvements here. I've done all those things to various coated paper cone drivers and it all helps. Some are difficult. I remember removing a dustcap, adding felt to pole piece, and then replacing dustcap. The improvement was subtle but audible.
BTW, removing a dustcap in a FR driver is a little dangerous. Oftentimes, they are acting as the equivalent of a dome tweeter with a wide surround, and supplying most of the HF. .
The Behlens Violin varnish is a spirit varnish, which technically isn't really a varnish at all. AFAIK it's likely a mixture of shellac, sandarac, and some other natural resins. I never tried that one, but it don't doubt it's a good special sauce. Magnetar has good ears. Violin varnishes are meant to be slightly damping, to prevent a screechy sound. (i just grossly simplified centuries of vigorous debate....
)
Haha...
Yes I did.
I used diluted PVA glue only. Actually, I've used it for many of my drivers. I feel it makes the sound less 'noisy'.
The midrange in that picture is a 12" guitar driver of Eminence. The damping brought by the glue can be seen in the impedance measurements -- mainly in the range of 2k-3kHz in this case. It's audible, too, of course.
It can be overdone. I once made a pair of 8" too 'polite' and somewhat dull because too much of it.
Yes I did.
I used diluted PVA glue only. Actually, I've used it for many of my drivers. I feel it makes the sound less 'noisy'.
The midrange in that picture is a 12" guitar driver of Eminence. The damping brought by the glue can be seen in the impedance measurements -- mainly in the range of 2k-3kHz in this case. It's audible, too, of course.
It can be overdone. I once made a pair of 8" too 'polite' and somewhat dull because too much of it.
Oh, mine is Legned 125 in that photo, a pretty wild sounding one. I cut the dust cap and added a wood plug. It became very much tamed after all the mods.
Just plain white PVA for woodwork. No particular ratio, I just added water slowly and stopped when it felt right via a small brush. 2 or 3 coats. Sometimes I painted only on front surface, sometimes on both sides. Don't remember the condition on this one, though.
Just plain white PVA for woodwork. No particular ratio, I just added water slowly and stopped when it felt right via a small brush. 2 or 3 coats. Sometimes I painted only on front surface, sometimes on both sides. Don't remember the condition on this one, though.
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