I think he is configuring it as a cardiod. One thing I'm concerned about though if that is what is being done:
The front response differs from the rear response of drivers, so if what he is trying to do is to somewhat null the rear response then I'd suggest inverting the sealed driver, at least as a test to see if it performs better.
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I've got 4 high q 10" woofers, which I was contemplating using to augment an open baffle 12P. (One 10" open baffled, one in a sealed cab.
Do you like the sound of this blending of two of a kind drivers in different applications?
I really enjoy h frame bass, but at times miss some sub 40 hz thump.
Do you like the sound of this blending of two of a kind drivers in different applications?
I really enjoy h frame bass, but at times miss some sub 40 hz thump.
Really nice work!
I too like the idea of physically separating the bass transducers from the full ranger panels, although in my case, with only 84db/watt drivers, I stacked my 2 10"ers for a little gain.
So, I'm assuming that's some kind of muffler-absorber behind your Lowthers, you must have outstanding imaging, with few front wall reflections.
How do they work, as in, how are they made?
Another view
Does this follow the principles in the paper by Nelson Pass, or is it different? Would love to hear more about the design etc.
MITsound: Thanks for the positive feedback. I have two GIK Acoustics sound traps behind my OBs (and more on the back wall) to help with room acoustics as Sirius pointed out, it is a "hard room". I called them and talked to a tech about my room and my system and they recommended several solutions. I recommend their products highly. Their website has a great deal of information which you may find helpful.Acoustic Panels | Bass Traps | Diffusors | GIK Acoustics
Pretty much the same principle, only with more compression and side walls instead of a very wide baffle.
Yeah, and I'd probably run into that limit pretty quickly with my listening habits, I'm just wondering what the expected response on a slob like this is, I.E how far does it go down without help.
I've been flirting with the idea of trying a really big slot loaded device for a while. Call it morbid curiosity, wondering how many woofers of what size I'd need to get something that's competitive in output and extension with a typical tuned enclosure subwoofer.
I have a feeling I'd need a used Porsche worth of RE-XXXs to make it work.
Excursion is skyrocketing towards the lower end of frequency. It's much more so in OB.
So it's advisable to give up the very bottom range, say, below 25 or 30 Hz to preserve headroom. For OB, that 5 or 10 Hz down low is more than significant in distortion. Our hearing loses sensitivity below that, too. It'd be the sense of vibration rather than sound. If you still need that rattling effect, just use some boxes. It's not a proper game for OB anyway.
I myself use 4x18" slot loaded (2 in center, 1 each side). The Xmax of the woofer is only 6 mm (it's not a sub). I cut the LF below 25 or 30 Hz by digital EQ depends on the materials I play. Can be loud enough to feel guilty. Enough for me.
If the very LF isn't cut, the woofer would bottom out at not so loud but very low frequency passage. This happened once or twice when watching (badly mixed) movies.
So it's advisable to give up the very bottom range, say, below 25 or 30 Hz to preserve headroom. For OB, that 5 or 10 Hz down low is more than significant in distortion. Our hearing loses sensitivity below that, too. It'd be the sense of vibration rather than sound. If you still need that rattling effect, just use some boxes. It's not a proper game for OB anyway.
I myself use 4x18" slot loaded (2 in center, 1 each side). The Xmax of the woofer is only 6 mm (it's not a sub). I cut the LF below 25 or 30 Hz by digital EQ depends on the materials I play. Can be loud enough to feel guilty. Enough for me.
If the very LF isn't cut, the woofer would bottom out at not so loud but very low frequency passage. This happened once or twice when watching (badly mixed) movies.