Here is a fake Chinese TDA2040 or 2050 (same size die, both) next to an authentic TDA2040. Both ICs were blown from highly reactive loads (not speakers). The counterfeit IC is on the left. Notice that it is smaller. It is a little over 1/2 the size of the authentic part. It is chipped from taking off the cover, but I can see from the die attach point its left edge. I'm not sure it contains any protection circuitry. With a 29 volt supply, the LM1875 makes 17 watts into 4 Ohms, while the fakes make only 14. Real TDA2050 probably would make 18 or 19 watts.
With the smaller size die and output transistors (right side of die) I can't see how these would last very long. This is what you get from eBay.
With the smaller size die and output transistors (right side of die) I can't see how these would last very long. This is what you get from eBay.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Could you post pics of the packaged parts, both front and rear, please? It could help in identifying the fakes in the pipeline.
I'm guessing that the smaller-die fakes are re-marks - maybe TDA2030 re-marked as TDA2050. There's a lot of demand for the TDA2050 after ST's decision to stop production - that makes it viable for counterfeiters to fake it.
I'm guessing that the smaller-die fakes are re-marks - maybe TDA2030 re-marked as TDA2050. There's a lot of demand for the TDA2050 after ST's decision to stop production - that makes it viable for counterfeiters to fake it.
It's not just EBay - these could be in the regular channel supply-chain. They're probably re-marks, not made from scratch.
I don't know about Digikey, but locally here in India there are two different, nearly identical versions of the ST TDA2050 in the channel. One is made by ST China, marked CHN. It is priced at nearly 2x the other one, also made by ST and marked MAR (Maroc? Marseilles?). Both seem to be authentic, but the price differential is suspicious, which is why I'd like to see the external markings on known counterfeits.
I will try to answer questions, some of which may be conjecture on my part:
They are probably taking some lower power chip and putting it into a TO-220 package.
If you look carefully, the authentic IC uses double bonds on the high current leads.
I will take some photos and post them here. Keep in mind that the counterfeiters can change their design at anytime. Any TDA2003,2030,2030A,2040,2050 sold as new should be suspect.
Mouser and Digikey have only sold me authentic parts. They are (in my experience) careful of their supply chains. When the TDA2050 was discontinued, Their stocks went from over a thousand parts to 0 a bout 1 week! They are not injecting any fakes into the marketplace.
Of course one should be careful of other semiconductors and electronic parts (and those piece O' crap kits) as well. I have found LEDs from China/eBay to be poor in performance and do not last at rated current. It is true that this junk can be sold through other suppliers as well. I have gotten fake TDA2040 and LEDs from US suppliers.
They are probably taking some lower power chip and putting it into a TO-220 package.
If you look carefully, the authentic IC uses double bonds on the high current leads.
I will take some photos and post them here. Keep in mind that the counterfeiters can change their design at anytime. Any TDA2003,2030,2030A,2040,2050 sold as new should be suspect.
Mouser and Digikey have only sold me authentic parts. They are (in my experience) careful of their supply chains. When the TDA2050 was discontinued, Their stocks went from over a thousand parts to 0 a bout 1 week! They are not injecting any fakes into the marketplace.
Of course one should be careful of other semiconductors and electronic parts (and those piece O' crap kits) as well. I have found LEDs from China/eBay to be poor in performance and do not last at rated current. It is true that this junk can be sold through other suppliers as well. I have gotten fake TDA2040 and LEDs from US suppliers.
Okay, here are the pics.
Left is the fake TDA2050, middle is authentic and the Right is a real LM1875
Same positions for the backside.
Don't shop by pictures! They often show an authentic part and send the fakes. I have bought a few times off of eBay just to see what they are sending and for testing the performance. I have never received authentic parts!
Left is the fake TDA2050, middle is authentic and the Right is a real LM1875
Same positions for the backside.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Don't shop by pictures! They often show an authentic part and send the fakes. I have bought a few times off of eBay just to see what they are sending and for testing the performance. I have never received authentic parts!
One key can be the logo, there are legal reasons to never deviate from the one you have registered. The left one is obviously wrong compared to the genuine one.
STMicroelectronics
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Following that strategy, is either one of these genuine?
All info I have is below in blue letters, so select to read:
The left chip was bought by me in 1999 (probably before the counterfit era), the right in 2013 from a (imho) reputable seller (but still at risk...).
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Following that strategy, is either one of these genuine?
All info I have is below in blue letters, so select to read:
The left chip was bought by me in 1999 (probably before the counterfit era), the right in 2013 from a (imho) reputable seller (but still at risk...).
The left one again renders very close to the one on their site. I'm not a lawyer so I don't know how exact it is maintained in practice but the second one certainly maintains the spirit of a unique identifiable brand. In the previous example I assumed the open hole in the first part of the logo and the last part extending too low was way too sloppy. There's nothing to stop the cheaters from being smart. My intent was to point out one possible red flag.
EDIT - I don't know what latitude you get when you use a laser brander, there might be things that are hard for it to draw. I guess it gets complicated, your two examples look like ink vs. laser and I now see the first part of the second is drawn with a constant line width leaving a tiny hole much smaller than the first fake. Don't know.
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Thanks - here are my pics. Left is my suspect TDA2050 priced at about half of the one at right, from ST China. The ST China one at right looks similar to the pics of your authentic ones.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The differences are in the tab outline, injection moulding mark, fonts, lead widths and lead bend shape (among others). The logo looks good on both, but differs slightly. I've validated the one on the right in an actual build (but not stress tested at rated maximum voltage).
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Even re-branding, they are selling 5 for $7 including shipping. Where is the business model?
Singapore is a real TDA7294, but the other one is either a TDA7296 or the table radio variant, which may perform acceptably at either lower voltage or far lower voltage. There are no new authentic TDA7294, since the best you can hope for is almost as good as a TDA7296 and it gets worse from there.Following that strategy, is either one of these genuine?
All info I have is below in blue letters, so select to read:
The left chip was bought by me in 1999 (probably before the counterfit era), the right in 2013 from a (imho) reputable seller (but still at risk...).
If you want a real TDA7294, I suggest to buy a TDA7293 due to better odds.
On the left is an NEC UPC for a lovely 10 watts (like Radio Shack's Realistic STA-19), and on the right is a TDA2050. The appropriate voltage for these is much different!!! On the left may also be an NTE part, which are usually old NEC parts, almost always terribly inconvenienced by having the wrong label on them, resulting in overrun, overcurrent conditions that don't perform well.
TDA2050 is discontinued, replaced by TDA7292, TDA7265B, 11 pins
TDA2040 is discontinued, replaced by TDA7264, TDA7265, 11 pins
TDA2030 continues but its days are numbered, NRND, 5 pins (the only one)
TDA2003 is discontinued, replaced by TDA7009, 11 pins (singleton input)
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I'll happily buy NEC 10W Pentawatt chipamps for 50c per piece all day long, which is what I paid for the one on the left. As long as it is actually an NEC chipamp, that is.
However, the authentic ST TDA2050 is also a good deal at ~$1.20 that I paid for it, so I may go back and clean up some of those as well. Better to hoard these now rather than later.
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