Here are my Pluto 2.1 clones made from PVC pipe.
The base is made from 38mm MDF and cut with a router and a chamfer on all edges. I had to use router free-hand to sink the PVC end caps in to the base as they have rounded bottoms.
Just need to paint them and add some spikes and to align the tweeter pipe properly.
I am using a Mini-DSP and two NAD amps.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
The base is made from 38mm MDF and cut with a router and a chamfer on all edges. I had to use router free-hand to sink the PVC end caps in to the base as they have rounded bottoms.
Just need to paint them and add some spikes and to align the tweeter pipe properly.
I am using a Mini-DSP and two NAD amps.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I hope your DSP is as successful at mitigating the driver's foibles as SL's gigantic, expensive home cooked crossover, and at significantly less cost.
I built a TL version of the pluto with the same drivers and managed to cobble up a passive crossover that's in the box at the base. I call it "THE POOR PLUMBER'S PLUTO".
I built a TL version of the pluto with the same drivers and managed to cobble up a passive crossover that's in the box at the base. I call it "THE POOR PLUMBER'S PLUTO".
Attachments
Last edited:
Thanks, I did find some biquad numbers on here which are meant to replicate SL ASP
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/179407-pluto-dsp-clones-finished.html
I recognize those TL Plutos from a photo gallery when I was looking at the MJK open baffle speakers!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/179407-pluto-dsp-clones-finished.html
I recognize those TL Plutos from a photo gallery when I was looking at the MJK open baffle speakers!
Just fitted the carpet spikes to the speaker bases and used MDF primer on them, ready for some matt black enamel spray paint.
The tweeter is now aligned with the woofer but have yet to figure out how to brace the two pipes together. How do other people on here do it?
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
The tweeter is now aligned with the woofer but have yet to figure out how to brace the two pipes together. How do other people on here do it?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Just got a Rotel (RB-956AX) 6-channel amp to power the Plutos and any other projects now making 3-way possible.
With the Plutos though I am using it as 4-channel with four channels bridged for the woofers and the last two channels for the tweeters.
Takes up less space than the two NAD amps.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
With the Plutos though I am using it as 4-channel with four channels bridged for the woofers and the last two channels for the tweeters.
Takes up less space than the two NAD amps.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I have just got my hands on a length of 5" PVC pipe,
If i cut this pipe to the same height as Plutos + coupler height around 825mm then my internal volume is now close to 11 liters instead of the current 7 liters.
This lowers the Q which would mean I need to re-calculate the LR transform in the MiniDSP and also the pipe resonance notch.
It also means smother flow through the pipe? As the rubber coupler has a sudden step,
Any one think this is a worthwhile change?
If i cut this pipe to the same height as Plutos + coupler height around 825mm then my internal volume is now close to 11 liters instead of the current 7 liters.
This lowers the Q which would mean I need to re-calculate the LR transform in the MiniDSP and also the pipe resonance notch.
It also means smother flow through the pipe? As the rubber coupler has a sudden step,
Any one think this is a worthwhile change?
I think SL would have designed it that way if he felt it would be an worthwhile improvement.
The thinner the better for it to act as a really small point source with low diffraction issues, especially when listening close to the speakers as intended. If the speakers do not sound right yet rest assured this is not the reason.
Of course you can always experiment, pretty easy with the mini DSP I imagine.
The thinner the better for it to act as a really small point source with low diffraction issues, especially when listening close to the speakers as intended. If the speakers do not sound right yet rest assured this is not the reason.
Of course you can always experiment, pretty easy with the mini DSP I imagine.
Yes. It is surprisingly close in there. My last speakers had very open frames and lots of air around them, in fact this was one of the selling points. It didn't stop Pluto being superior.
Find the fernco if you want to use a rubber coupler. I found the exact one recommended in a local UK diy chain store, albeit in 2009 when I built the speaker.
Alternatively you could build the Crown SL suggests.
As seen on this page:
Pluto-2 omni-directional loudspeaker
Find the fernco if you want to use a rubber coupler. I found the exact one recommended in a local UK diy chain store, albeit in 2009 when I built the speaker.
Alternatively you could build the Crown SL suggests.
As seen on this page:
Pluto-2 omni-directional loudspeaker
I forgot to mention. When I built my pluto's I raised the drive unit with an MDF ring glued to the rubber coupler. This will give you better airflow. Also you can screw the driver on the mounting ring instead of gluing it.
My rubber mount is fitted ever so slightly lower on the pipe to keep the internal volume the same.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-5-25...5?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item23186fdb6f
I'm also using 5" pipes. It does not make an essential difference in terms of diffraction. But as pointed out, Fc will be lower and thus less eq is required.
The pipe res changes more with length rather than volume.
From an air flow point of view, the flower pot approach is better than the rubber coupler but also here I am not sure it would make an audible difference.
The pipe res changes more with length rather than volume.
From an air flow point of view, the flower pot approach is better than the rubber coupler but also here I am not sure it would make an audible difference.
Tried my hand at flaring the tweeter tubes, here is the result.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I managed to find some Fernco couplers off ebay, they look much better than the other ones it had.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here they are ready for a paint job, Satin Black.
The base is a 5kg bar bell weight plate, there is a 38mm thick MDF circle which is pressed into the end of the pipe with a 32mm hole cut in its middle to which I drove a 32mm oak dowel through that and the weight plate.
The base is a 5kg bar bell weight plate, there is a 38mm thick MDF circle which is pressed into the end of the pipe with a 32mm hole cut in its middle to which I drove a 32mm oak dowel through that and the weight plate.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.