Get some silicone tubing (6mm OD, 4mm ID) and slip a short (10mm) length over the end of the solder sucker teflon tip.
Use plenty of new solder to wet/flow the joint properly, and suck up the molten solder.
The silicone tubing provides a resilient air tight seal around the component lead, removing all solder in one action.
The resilience of the silicone tubing also prevents track damage.
Dan.
Hi and ok ... and this is extreme
SMD is completely out of my reach ... even smd opamp
This is microsurgery
Kind regards, gino
Hi and i promise ... if i will ever receive it i will try it and report
If it is ok for me it will be ok also for monkeys
For me this operation is fundamental
I was amazed by an article
A modder made only some bypass on a commercial unit and replaced some strategic components
with the end result of a better sound
Amazing ...
The he explained that sometimes for commercial units they save money when they should not.
Perhaps to buy a better faceplate ...
Regards, gino
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Hi and thanks a lot for the kind advice
It sounds a little tricky ...
My main problem is to place the tip of the welder and of the usual mechanical pump very close
I have also bought this one here ... should be a good compromise
2in1 30W 220V Soldering Iron PCB Solder Sucker Desoldering Pump Welding Tool Tip | eBay
This is very cheap indeed and could solve my problem
Regards, gino
Gino,
With all due respect, if it's at all possible, buy a good unit and stop trying to be cheap. This is one of the most basic parts of this hobby. Once you have a good desoldering unit the hobby enjoyment goes way up and the damage is reduced to almost zero.
Stay with a main brand so parts are easily available. We have this exact unit at work and it works very well. It's not too expensive and parts are readily available.
HAKKO | Desoldering / Rework | HAKKO 808
Here it is on UK eBay for less money:
hakko 808 | eBay
I spent over $1100 US for a really nice unit 20 years ago. It was one of the best decisions I've ever made because it saves a lot of time and I create no damage removing parts. Yes, you can do it with solder braid or a hand pump, but it takes much longer and you alway risk damage. Once you use a "real" desoldering station you will never go back. You will always wonder how you did without it.
You won't be disappointed.
Kind regards,
Steve
With all due respect, if it's at all possible, buy a good unit and stop trying to be cheap. This is one of the most basic parts of this hobby. Once you have a good desoldering unit the hobby enjoyment goes way up and the damage is reduced to almost zero.
Stay with a main brand so parts are easily available. We have this exact unit at work and it works very well. It's not too expensive and parts are readily available.
HAKKO | Desoldering / Rework | HAKKO 808
Here it is on UK eBay for less money:
hakko 808 | eBay
I spent over $1100 US for a really nice unit 20 years ago. It was one of the best decisions I've ever made because it saves a lot of time and I create no damage removing parts. Yes, you can do it with solder braid or a hand pump, but it takes much longer and you alway risk damage. Once you use a "real" desoldering station you will never go back. You will always wonder how you did without it.
You won't be disappointed.
Kind regards,
Steve
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I agree the $145 is still expensive but imho it's well worth it.
Regarding me spending $1100, it was over 20 years ago when I was doing lots of rework and the desoldering stations were still very expensive. Even then, it was WELL worth the money spent due to reduced risk of damage and time saved. It's still working fine today so I figure I've easily received my money's worth. I use it all of the time and I can't imagine being without one now.
Gino,
For surface mount rework just grab one of what I've linked below. Then add the hot tweezers to it (mine came with both). Works fine and makes SMT rework a breeze:
NEW HOT AIR SMD REWORK/DESOLDERING STATION,IRON,GIFT
It's the same old story. Buy the right tool for the job and the job turns out better and is usually more fun. I view the money spent as investing in myself so I don't wince too much about it.
Good luck,
Steve
Regarding me spending $1100, it was over 20 years ago when I was doing lots of rework and the desoldering stations were still very expensive. Even then, it was WELL worth the money spent due to reduced risk of damage and time saved. It's still working fine today so I figure I've easily received my money's worth. I use it all of the time and I can't imagine being without one now.
Gino,
For surface mount rework just grab one of what I've linked below. Then add the hot tweezers to it (mine came with both). Works fine and makes SMT rework a breeze:
NEW HOT AIR SMD REWORK/DESOLDERING STATION,IRON,GIFT
It's the same old story. Buy the right tool for the job and the job turns out better and is usually more fun. I view the money spent as investing in myself so I don't wince too much about it.
Good luck,
Steve
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Not sure if I'm adding anything that hasn't already been said at this point, but for very tiny work I use a hot air gun with a regular desoldering pump. The sort that you have to push a spring-loaded piston down on every time works a treat but my personal favorite is a plain desoldering bulb. You may find with some joints that there is too much solder for the air to handle flowing easily, but in such a case the joint ought to be large enough to work with more traditional tools like a vacuum pump or braid. There really is no easy way to desolder unless you hit the sweet spot with component size and can get on them with the vacuum gun, which is a godsend in my book.
Hi and this is exactly the problem with that i have now
I think i will try the braid ... maybe the secret is in its quality
I will ordered one. Thanks a lot, gino
Hi and thanks and this is exactly my conclusion
If the solder is a good alloy than just a decent welder with mayve a rough T control would be just fine.
But good desoldering is a challenge, especially when parts are tiny and the solder is an high melting T one
I already risked some pcbs in the past
Yes and thanks. I was really wondering about spare parts availability, like for instance nozzles of different size
It is very nice indeed and thanks a lot for the advice. I am buying one.
It is the possible damage to pcbs my main concern.
For parts like resistors, diodes i could cut them in half and then pull them after melting the solder. But it is tricky.
Thanks again Steve. I am buying one now.
Kind regards, gino
You mentioned you're replacing some diodes. If those are the surface mount kind, your best bet is a pair of hot tweezers as linked to on the previous page. An alternative is to use a soldering iron with a wide chisel tip. It needs to be wide enough to be able to heat both ends of the component at the same time. Then you can just pluck the component off with a pair of tweezers.
On the other hand, if the diodes in question are the leaded kind, you can cut the component lead, bend the part up, and pull on it while heating the component lead with the soldering iron. Add a little new solder if necessary.
Similarly, ICs can usually be desoldered by cutting the leads with a knife or fine side cutters. Then heat each pin and pull it out.
Cleanup is done by adding new solder, suck it up with solder wick, and hit the board with some flux cleaner.
Of course, this trashes the part, but is easier on the board.
~Tom
On the other hand, if the diodes in question are the leaded kind, you can cut the component lead, bend the part up, and pull on it while heating the component lead with the soldering iron. Add a little new solder if necessary.
Similarly, ICs can usually be desoldered by cutting the leads with a knife or fine side cutters. Then heat each pin and pull it out.
Cleanup is done by adding new solder, suck it up with solder wick, and hit the board with some flux cleaner.
Of course, this trashes the part, but is easier on the board.
~Tom
Just pull on the part without cutting the leads. It would be a shame to waste a diode because you couldn't be bothered to heat both leads while tugging, alternating the lead each time to "walk it out." This works very well with electrolytic capacitors, where you can just push the component opposite the direction of the lead you are heating, and it will pivot on it's edge. Repeat for the other side and it's free. No hassle to it.
But it isn't particularly difficult. First thing is get something like an OptiVisor so you can actually see what you're doing. It makes a PROFOUND difference.
To remove SMD chips I use an Ungar hot air gun to unsolder the leads as a group. These can be re-installed if needed. To remove SMD 'lytics I use a low profile side cutter and destroy them leaving the rubber seal on the board. Peel the rubber seal off, clip the wide part of the lead, remove the plastic 'base', ADD solder to the terminals and then use a solder sucker to clean it all off. I almost never damage a pad and it's faster than anything else I've tried. Small SMD resistors remove on the wick if they're not needed.
Through hole components are best destroyed for minimum board damage though I've gotten pretty good at augmenting the soldering iron with a hot air gun and solder sucker.
Practice practice practice.
G²
Hi and thanks. But what i meant is that smd requires different and specific tools. I have already big issues with normal size parts ...
I seriuosly thinking and i am sold on this for diodes and resistors
But for electrolitcs ? Ok ... i can pull them from the other side of the pcb while melting the solder ...
First i want to try the desoldering gun i have bought
If it will not work i will proceed as you suggest
I do not completely agree on this
There are tools, maybe expensive, but designed and built so well that even a not expert can use them in a very effective way.
Desoldering is much more critical than soldering.
For soldering ... cleaning, then the right solder and welder and it is done
I also think that desoldering is not a very common activity
Only used to repair units ...
The spring loaded pump that i have now just do not work well enough
But i will find something ... i am sure of this
And i will report ... of course
Thanks again, gino
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