Parcel arrived with the Mundorf MCap EVO Silver Gold. Oil.
And of course directly soldered and we will see in a few days how the sound is
Tibi, C10 and C43 what is the best I can use: Sanyo OSCON 270uF ??
Regards,
Rudy
And of course directly soldered and we will see in a few days how the sound is
Tibi, C10 and C43 what is the best I can use: Sanyo OSCON 270uF ??
Regards,
Rudy
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Tibi/anyone,
How do I wire the CD door switch? The terminal marked '1' on the main board is ground; what is corresponding terminal on the switch board? Thank you.
Like this :
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What value and brand did you use Dimitri.(cap)
Do you think it was coincidence (is the skipping everytime on the same spot) or due to its replacement.
@NBIVOL and Tibi do you experience skipping ?
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It was a 100nF vishay bc.
Mk1 had its issues anyway, so I wouldn't sweat about it much
In MK2 I m currently using 1nf silver mica CD but it is thick for the sanyo and blocks the sled on the last track.
I have completed my test set up in order to evaluate the 3 candidates for laser modification.
This board is made out of a million plugs and sockets in order to switch components while listening
Nearly everything is interchangeable and the board is on a serious level...superregs and a Trichord 4 clock etc etc.
The standard metal laserboards (with end switch on it) will be chosen and each one will get its dedicated capacitor.
I can swob the metal boards in one minute (only a ribbon and one plug) so I can listen to each cap in exactly the same surrounding...so actually listen to "the cap only" .
This with the help of Rudy for the original boombox magnetic puck which will be used for the standard metal boards.
I admit it took a bit of work to make this set up but I take Tibis discovery of the XR5 very serious !!
This board is made out of a million plugs and sockets in order to switch components while listening
Nearly everything is interchangeable and the board is on a serious level...superregs and a Trichord 4 clock etc etc.
The standard metal laserboards (with end switch on it) will be chosen and each one will get its dedicated capacitor.
I can swob the metal boards in one minute (only a ribbon and one plug) so I can listen to each cap in exactly the same surrounding...so actually listen to "the cap only" .
This with the help of Rudy for the original boombox magnetic puck which will be used for the standard metal boards.
I admit it took a bit of work to make this set up but I take Tibis discovery of the XR5 very serious !!
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Yes I do experience skipping and more then this some CD become unredable,I experienced with 10nF 22nF and 100nf EROs same issues. so after couple of days switched back to original cap.To bad becouse I liked very much how it sounds...
As long there is a laser decoupling cap, on Shiga MKII, you'll not experience any skips. In fact Shiga MKII will read most scratched and ugliest CD's.
Shiga MKII hare a completely redesigned laser circuit and make use of different laser transistor than MKI and JVC EZ.
Regards,
Tibi
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Parcel arrived with the Mundorf MCap EVO Silver Gold. Oil.
And of course directly soldered and we will see in a few days how the sound is
Tibi, C10 and C43 what is the best I can use: Sanyo OSCON 270uF ??
Regards,
Rudy
Yes, Sanyo OSCON would be best there. Any value between 220uF to 330uF should be fine.
Regards,
Tibi
Tibi...do you know the value of those other two little bastards and do you have a link to the electronic layout....
One is PIN decoupling and one is Vref=2.5V decoupling.
I measured them some time ago and one is 100nF respectively 10nF.
Anyhow, I'll measure them again, just to be sure.
Regards,
Tibi
That is truly a pity....if you used the same drive I wonder how that is possible especially if you used a 100 nF again.....maybe a physical reaction??
Did you dismantle the laser in order to remove and solder ?
I think this aspect stands loose from the fact that Tibi designed a better circuit....
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I have not used Silmic, most of them are Blackgates...the Panasonic I did use were brown with gold IIRC