The "damn" above was reaction to trying to figure out for 7 days what went wrong swiching DIP4, trying all kind of resets and no possitive result the entire week. I am very glad and gratefull Soundcheck described this procedure above.
(I sometimes see display segments blinking on-off, but display is on for only 2 seconds anyway, so that doesn't bother me a bit)
(I sometimes see display segments blinking on-off, but display is on for only 2 seconds anyway, so that doesn't bother me a bit)
Why not try a LiPoFe battery ?? That'll give you a nice reference at least.
If you want to spent that much of money for a Teddyreg, the 15$ for a battery won't harm. You can load it with a lab supply.
I used to use TeddyRegs myself. I do think these are overrated and overexpensive.
@soundcheck
I had order with mouser just below free shipping so I ordered 5 eky-500ell152mlp1s (to try against the lelon's) to get free shipping, expecting nothing ...
Maybe lucky pick, now wondering if others might even be better. More bass-dynamics/air movement, but even violin sound fuller. And most amazing to me: cymbal's defenition improved. Was a bit like SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS before and now has klang.
5 minute replacement (without clay) and reversable if you would like
(I use DDX with connex smps500 PSU/primare transport/markaudio pensilP70)
I had order with mouser just below free shipping so I ordered 5 eky-500ell152mlp1s (to try against the lelon's) to get free shipping, expecting nothing ...
Maybe lucky pick, now wondering if others might even be better. More bass-dynamics/air movement, but even violin sound fuller. And most amazing to me: cymbal's defenition improved. Was a bit like SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS before and now has klang.
5 minute replacement (without clay) and reversable if you would like
(I use DDX with connex smps500 PSU/primare transport/markaudio pensilP70)
THX for the hint.
"Sound fuller" -- You need to make sure that you didn't catch some kind of "smearing" effect. That also can make things sound fuller!?!?
Do you have a seperate 3,3V supply?
Perhaps I'll try better caps too.
One of the issues with this amp IMO is, that the caps are located much too far away from the amp chip. Every implementation guideline says. "As close to the chip as possible".
Here is a nice article:
Circuit board layout guidelines for Class-D amplifiers | EE Times
I sent that one over to HifiMeDiy months ago (hoping that they update the PS section). You'll see that they can also improve the decoupling close to the chip.
Cheers
Seems to be more power now for (mid)bass I guess, could be related to low impedance of speakers connected, highs are clearer not louder and not brighter.
Yeah seems layout can be improved. I had some trouble with board not functioning so I did not order the inductors you advised yet, will do. How you changed the 3.3V supply I meant to ask you later, like to do easy things first
These caps were like free with order, I know cheap doesn't need to be worse, but this difference now with these cheapish parts make me wonder if I shouldn't have looked more seriously (LOL and be influenced by all marketing blahblah LOLOL). Just searched a little on KY and some seem like them. The Lelon code is H018 on mine, week 18 in 2010 ??? shelfed for 3 years maybe???
Yeah seems layout can be improved. I had some trouble with board not functioning so I did not order the inductors you advised yet, will do. How you changed the 3.3V supply I meant to ask you later, like to do easy things first
These caps were like free with order, I know cheap doesn't need to be worse, but this difference now with these cheapish parts make me wonder if I shouldn't have looked more seriously (LOL and be influenced by all marketing blahblah LOLOL). Just searched a little on KY and some seem like them. The Lelon code is H018 on mine, week 18 in 2010 ??? shelfed for 3 years maybe???Well I had the frozen ampboard again this morning. Display not working, no remote, no pot, resetting did not work. Tried to measure.... connected it again just now and works fine again. Remember I do not have another remotecontrolled anything on the same floor, so definitely another cause. Because resetting did not work I really thought I had a defect, somehow unreliable at my place...
I left room while music was playing, returned 30 minutes later, no sound, cd was still running, no signal led, only yellow powerled, no reaction from remote etc etc
I left room while music was playing, returned 30 minutes later, no sound, cd was still running, no signal led, only yellow powerled, no reaction from remote etc etc
I compared now Connex SMPS300RS vs. Meanwell 350
both at potentially best 28V.
I stay with the Connex. It's clean and crisp and very fast.
Though I do think it requires some modifications. Probably I'm gonna short the fuses as a first action.
Another hint:
All of you who run the DDX. Please try upsampling your data to 24/96
on the PC/Transport by using a high quality resampler such as sox. Otherwise the DDX will do it for you!!!
I do explain my prefered resampling setup for Logitechmediaserver/Squeezebox/Squeezelite on my blog.
Cheers
both at potentially best 28V.
I stay with the Connex. It's clean and crisp and very fast.
Though I do think it requires some modifications. Probably I'm gonna short the fuses as a first action.
Another hint:
All of you who run the DDX. Please try upsampling your data to 24/96
on the PC/Transport by using a high quality resampler such as sox. Otherwise the DDX will do it for you!!!
I do explain my prefered resampling setup for Logitechmediaserver/Squeezebox/Squeezelite on my blog.
Cheers
Last edited:
I know!!!
They occasionally get the sm caps close but even then put the big caps cms away (1-2 in)! Here's my hack'n'stack solution:
Pan FM 22uF, 50V on the small sm caps that go to the vias. (I'm assuming the vias go right to the chip pins ...)
Another dude was kvetching about how they never put enough PS cap on these type of digital amps. I threw one of my Pan THA 15,000uf/63V from my high power chipamps, with a 470uf-->1 ohm 'charging' circuit into the mix:
So for me, ps is 470uf-->1ohm ('charging')-->15,000uf-(for each 'ch')->1000uF/50V FMat 'entry'-->FM 22uF, 50V on vias ...
OS cons at key places (close to chip), Pan FM 100uf, 50V (also stolen from chipamp!
) at 'entry' points to chip ps, Pan FM on sm caps that via to chip. Now I've gotta get those 41Hz inductors from Mouser ...
PS. These were caps I 'had around'. Suggestions for more up-to-date (FM is old school) and technically suitable caps would be extremely appreciated.
Last edited:
But, but ... but you're only using half of the chips!?!
(I've got the latest ... and last rev.)I'm using the top full-range (no x-over):
So the sub channel (no x-over: because of above no-xo setting ...) is going into: 10mH-->15"
... (x2! for 4 ohms ...)
Reaaaly gotta get me those inductors ... (or none-at-all since I'm running 2x 10mH for the parallel 15" subs?!?)
Last edited:
REMOTE RELIABILITY ISSUES --DDX 320V 2.2.2.1
After reading soundcheck blog, i am considering ordering one to try .
I have a concern about the remote control.
Have the issue of interference from sony remotes and quality build issue been resolved ?
How to operate the DDX if there is no remote ?
hope nic or others can address this issue
thanks
kp93300
After reading soundcheck blog, i am considering ordering one to try .
I have a concern about the remote control.
Have the issue of interference from sony remotes and quality build issue been resolved ?
How to operate the DDX if there is no remote ?
hope nic or others can address this issue
thanks
kp93300
Hi.
There'll be a new DDX USB amp soon. You might consider that one instead of DDX320.
You'll save the SPDIF interface. And hopefully even more modifications go into that
new generation.
However.
If the USB interface is not very well implemented, you'll achieve better results with a well done SPDIF interface.
Cheers
PS: I'm no longer running my modified DDX320 btw. I'm back to a DAC-amp combo for the time being.
There'll be a new DDX USB amp soon. You might consider that one instead of DDX320.
You'll save the SPDIF interface. And hopefully even more modifications go into that
new generation.
However.
If the USB interface is not very well implemented, you'll achieve better results with a well done SPDIF interface.
Cheers
PS: I'm no longer running my modified DDX320 btw. I'm back to a DAC-amp combo for the time being.
Last edited:
soundcheck
thanks for the info.
do you refer to this
HiFimeDIY UD20 USB True Digital Power Amplifier
BTW why do you retire the DDX 320 ?
kp93300
thanks for the info.
do you refer to this
HiFimeDIY UD20 USB True Digital Power Amplifier
BTW why do you retire the DDX 320 ?
kp93300
I found a better solution.
Hi soundcheck,
We know that you always find good alternatives, can you share it with us?
The advantages of a FullDigitalAmp are obvious.
To be honest.
Where there is light....
The entire digital processing block incl. power supply has to be done better.
At this point the STA320 chip sets certain limits (resampling etc.) and also the HifiMeDiy implementation has its limitations.
After all the DDX320 is IMO still a good value at below 100$ + 50$ for the SMPS. (Note: The DDX needs some tweaking to make a real good value!!)
If HifiMeDiy takes care on well implementing the upcoming 80W Fulldigital Amp with USB interface, we can get rid of the annoying SPDIF interface.
That might be an advantage. However. My tests have shown that highest quality SPDIF interfaces are preferable over average and even most higher
quality USB interfaces. HifiMeDiy needs to do the homework to get it done right.
Beside that I do think the power outputstage of the DDX, respectively the way it's implemented, has it's limitations.
Even my SMSL 50 with Connex SMPS delivers a more solid low end. My Hypex UCDs 180HG with HxRs deliver a more dynamic and rock solid presentation.
Joro's PCM5102 DAC plus either of above amps can replace my tweaked DDX320+Connex SPMPS fed by JoroSPDIF or Audiophilleo.
I also tested the M2Tech USB DAC plus above amps. That DAC is IMO even better and much more convenient then the JoroDAC.
But again. It'll be hard to beat the DDX price/performance value. And that's the HifiMeDiy strategy, to deliver the "best bang for the buck".
That value hopefully gets even better with the new USB FullDigitalAmp.
When looking at the overall performance only, you can find better solutions. And that's why I retired the DDX320.
Cheers
To be honest.
Where there is light....
The entire digital processing block incl. power supply has to be done better.
At this point the STA320 chip sets certain limits (resampling etc.) and also the HifiMeDiy implementation has its limitations.
After all the DDX320 is IMO still a good value at below 100$ + 50$ for the SMPS. (Note: The DDX needs some tweaking to make a real good value!!)
If HifiMeDiy takes care on well implementing the upcoming 80W Fulldigital Amp with USB interface, we can get rid of the annoying SPDIF interface.
That might be an advantage. However. My tests have shown that highest quality SPDIF interfaces are preferable over average and even most higher
quality USB interfaces. HifiMeDiy needs to do the homework to get it done right.
Beside that I do think the power outputstage of the DDX, respectively the way it's implemented, has it's limitations.
Even my SMSL 50 with Connex SMPS delivers a more solid low end. My Hypex UCDs 180HG with HxRs deliver a more dynamic and rock solid presentation.
Joro's PCM5102 DAC plus either of above amps can replace my tweaked DDX320+Connex SPMPS fed by JoroSPDIF or Audiophilleo.
I also tested the M2Tech USB DAC plus above amps. That DAC is IMO even better and much more convenient then the JoroDAC.
But again. It'll be hard to beat the DDX price/performance value. And that's the HifiMeDiy strategy, to deliver the "best bang for the buck".
That value hopefully gets even better with the new USB FullDigitalAmp.
When looking at the overall performance only, you can find better solutions. And that's why I retired the DDX320.
Cheers
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.