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GB for Salas Folded Simplistic Phono PCB

Prepare for even more resolution if you use z-foil for R-load and 47K interstage!
Also keep in mind less C2Y cap means more treble.
I think Salas was in favor of Nichicon KZ.
I would also try something more fancy for the output capacitor.

I use 47 bkohm Z foil for interstage. I like a little laid back sound and so do the members off the club.

I a not sure I like fancy caps. Normally I do not but that for digital setup. Maybee it will work here.

What do you recommend. Will do the listening in club before anything. All our cables is flat slver.
 
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Well I know Jan likes treble :) and it could been a good idea to add those extra 51 pf polystyren. The Kiwame series resistors in the supply to blame for the little noise comparing with C 27 . The little laid back because off the Black Gate ? Jan vil not use it in the future so I think much others will appreciate the laid back stile .
Jan used Rondo Bronze, Sumiko Palo Santos and at last two Ortofon Mc 2000 Mk I on two arms direct comparing into two inputs off his Pre and using headphones.

Friday we will try in our Hifi Club in Copenhagen. If I should modify i would take thoose Black Gate and Kiwame out but I was thinking the Clubs setup when I added them and therefore it will maybee show up as Nirvana.

Salas what kind off electrolytics do you prefer ?

We really have a fantastic setup in the club.

The C 27 has 16(!) paralleled input very low base spread resistance (Rbb') BJTs in MC so it has almost record level low noise for being well usable up to 70dB gain. If you had R2, R3 smaller and gain to 63dB the lower Johnson from those resistors would have helped to go even closer for those Palo Santos and Bronze to come across even stronger. MC2000 at 0.05mV is out of any question to use before securing 70db with optimum near 80dB gain(!). Use thick film for power dropper resistors, or wire wound in general when you need big ones. Better use LC than RC when employing filter cells. Use best able neutral part for R14, Rload, R1, R5, R7. Rhopoint gathers top fame lately. If you don't want "smoothing" to a cart or other in the system chain, avoid many BG they are old, try fresh Nichicon Muse. Use excellent C3, C4, (C4 is a sore point now bcs MKT). Use less mF possibly in the PSU. Use fresh caps there when able. Still there is no point trying to absolutely nail it on first shot, impossible when you haven't had any simplistic at all in the past. You got to learn its traits. Try some things based on Jan's hints and your parts knowledge, listen for yourself in the club, talk it out with friends there, and revisit after wiser. Its a trial and error process. You need your own TT in your own system basically. Things sure to keep after Jan, no signal information is lost vs a world class unit and you built technically correctly a super high value for money unit on first shot. Rest is to taste, synergy, and to your tweak fun that just now begins.:)
 
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What do you recommend. Will do the listening in club before anything. All our cables is flat slver.

Clarity cap MR are good higher cost tier but relatively good value neutral caps for instance, still you will never know how you will like it in the club's system first as you said. Best reviewer for your likeable tone is you in a system you are familiar with. The signal info is there Jan said on headphones. You go sculpture its tone from there.;)
 
Hiya, I've tried to follow most of this thread, for quite a while now. But, I don't remember seeing anything on this low of an output. What gain should I be aiming for, with a output @ 0.12mV-Denon 103M.? And would it be better to go with a lower gain and use step ups? I do tend to use a few different MM's. ...kill to birds...
 
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Its your cartridge's nominal output times the gain you set it for. Normally 350-400mV RMS for 0dB vinyl cut record level and the gains for types mentioned in the guide. It can swing up to 22V peak to peak though and records differ a lot. I use a times one gain buffer pre and its pretty loud at 1 o'clock on 94dB sens speakers via 26dB gain amp, tracks along with the DAC input more or less the way the CDs are made vs my records. Records hit "over" well in the red on a VU meter and hover around 0dB when digital hovers below, and 0 is hard ceiling for it so its not like -10dBV vs +6dbV typical standards of phono and DAC replay categories absolute contrast, they tend to meet at circa 0.7V in average recording levels.

So for F5 (its a 15dB gain power amp) I would not risk phono source through DCB1 unity gain, when with 25dB+ gain power amp and not insensitive speakers, say not below 88-90dB I would not worry.

If someone has to have a unity gain pre and insensitive power amp which is just loud enough on particular speakers as a system on a strong CDP/DAC as source, he may either consider a 10dB at least preamp for gain or combine some extra gain stage exclusively for the output of his phono. Phono stages should not over-amplify for reasons of not raising hiss & hum to noticeable levels. There is an almost standardized 40dB for 3.5-5mV MM that brings 350-500mV nominal in all around the world phono units, and about 60dB is standard for normal MC in majority for same result.
 
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:up: Not bad at all for your folded simplistic I guess.

*You can tailor tune the response for specific ancillaries of course. Try loading the cart "open" at 47K first. Work from there downwards if it feels bright also. Some lack slam at "recommended" low loadings.