Well after much searching I found this post with a schematic with part numbers and a layout for the board. So then I used this schematic to update the other one. So now I am in the process of creating a BOM based on those values. I hope I am heading in the right direction. Since there have been so many changes, it seems it would have been better to have part numbers on the silkscreen rather than values unless it can be built as is.
Just my $.02
Blessings, Terry
Just my $.02
Blessings, Terry
You are welcome.
If you look at This post in the other MKIII thread you will find the BOM I put together. I have asked some of the guys who are knowledgeable about this amp to look it over. I used byron's BOM and then tried to include the updates that I could find.
Hopefully you guys will find it helpful. That is what I will be ordering my components from.
If you look at This post in the other MKIII thread you will find the BOM I put together. I have asked some of the guys who are knowledgeable about this amp to look it over. I used byron's BOM and then tried to include the updates that I could find.
Hopefully you guys will find it helpful. That is what I will be ordering my components from.
Guys, I've started a new builders thread here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/242836-dx-blame-mkiii-2013-builders-thread.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/242836-dx-blame-mkiii-2013-builders-thread.html
Meanman, official Dx Corporation man for Europe
Is working together and cooperating a very long time.
He was the one was in the first place and in the first group buy and always have assembled our amplifiers.
Image attached is from many, many years ago.... Meanman and i had a very few white hairs in our heads.
Reason why has my gratitude and respect.
Thanks Meanman,
regards,
Carlos
Is working together and cooperating a very long time.
He was the one was in the first place and in the first group buy and always have assembled our amplifiers.
Image attached is from many, many years ago.... Meanman and i had a very few white hairs in our heads.
Reason why has my gratitude and respect.
Thanks Meanman,
regards,
Carlos
Is from the MKIII that Terry wants the voltage chart?
I can prepare..despite i do think it does not help.
What helps is to check old style:
Check for shorts below the pcboard..clean it all over with Kerozene and a strong brush (dental brush)...observe with lensers..be sure everything fine, no shorts, no bad solder.
First of all measure resistance from positive to ground, from negative to ground and from positive to negative and then invert and repeat all resistance measurements..wait the multimeter stabilize...over flow happens while capacitors are charging...disconnect supply to measure...you must find more than 100K at minimum..usually moire than 500K and depending polarity you will have more than 2 Megaohms...this is to check for shorts.
We print the schematic, then we go checking and measuring each part and painting red into the printed schematic..also we paint the already tested component with a removable paint..... this way when you have all schematic painted and all pcboard painted you have made the part's check.... some parts need you to lift up one of it's leads...transistors must be completelly and entirelly removed...measure outside the pcboard.
Check multimeter polarity..if leads are correctly placed...then check voltages from the supply..if they are present in the power amplifier...not present?.. check fuses.
If continue not to operate fine..then check jumpers and solders...ressolder the parts looks strange
Continue to work bad?... then check transistors again... download datasheet and watch if your pins are correctly placed and positioned into the pcboard holes...check if PNP is in the PNP place and if NPN are in the NPN place.
Not working?
Check condenser polarity and diodes polarity, if not already done.
Not working?
Check your supply voltage, replace your multimeter..check power supply polarity, check your speaker and your audio source.
Not working?
PRAY!
regards,
Carlos
I can prepare..despite i do think it does not help.
What helps is to check old style:
Check for shorts below the pcboard..clean it all over with Kerozene and a strong brush (dental brush)...observe with lensers..be sure everything fine, no shorts, no bad solder.
First of all measure resistance from positive to ground, from negative to ground and from positive to negative and then invert and repeat all resistance measurements..wait the multimeter stabilize...over flow happens while capacitors are charging...disconnect supply to measure...you must find more than 100K at minimum..usually moire than 500K and depending polarity you will have more than 2 Megaohms...this is to check for shorts.
We print the schematic, then we go checking and measuring each part and painting red into the printed schematic..also we paint the already tested component with a removable paint..... this way when you have all schematic painted and all pcboard painted you have made the part's check.... some parts need you to lift up one of it's leads...transistors must be completelly and entirelly removed...measure outside the pcboard.
Check multimeter polarity..if leads are correctly placed...then check voltages from the supply..if they are present in the power amplifier...not present?.. check fuses.
If continue not to operate fine..then check jumpers and solders...ressolder the parts looks strange
Continue to work bad?... then check transistors again... download datasheet and watch if your pins are correctly placed and positioned into the pcboard holes...check if PNP is in the PNP place and if NPN are in the NPN place.
Not working?
Check condenser polarity and diodes polarity, if not already done.
Not working?
Check your supply voltage, replace your multimeter..check power supply polarity, check your speaker and your audio source.
Not working?
PRAY!
regards,
Carlos
Last edited:
Hi Carlos,
Very good check list. I have done most of that though I did not check off the schematic as I went. I will start over. On the MKIII I had two working boards though I had that sibilance in the highs and weird square wave that you saw. I had replaced the two 47R resistors that replaced the diodes and that cured my offset. On one board I made the changes you suggested in the builders thread and now I have almost rail voltages on the output. That is usually a short somewhere but sometimes a device not turning on and causing a voltage swing. I spent 4 hours going over the board and just haven't been able to find it. A voltage chart like you produced for me in the Super A thread would be a great help to me but I don't want to put you to any more trouble on my account.
Blessings, Terry
Very good check list. I have done most of that though I did not check off the schematic as I went. I will start over. On the MKIII I had two working boards though I had that sibilance in the highs and weird square wave that you saw. I had replaced the two 47R resistors that replaced the diodes and that cured my offset. On one board I made the changes you suggested in the builders thread and now I have almost rail voltages on the output. That is usually a short somewhere but sometimes a device not turning on and causing a voltage swing. I spent 4 hours going over the board and just haven't been able to find it. A voltage chart like you produced for me in the Super A thread would be a great help to me but I don't want to put you to any more trouble on my account.
Blessings, Terry
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.