Is 1 micron point to point is necessary for a turntable? We had 15 micron accuracy fine stamped 1mm steel plates used for magnet laminations, getting better that that cost too much, and measuring it was a pita.
We have a temp controlled room, stable to .5 C, about 20 foot by 30 foot. We put the assemblies in the room and allow about 8 hours dwell before trying to measure anything.
That's why I thought the 1 micron was a surface finish spec.
There's a lot to be said for boring...(more exciting is ripping the skin of a right thumb all off at a heavy 3-phase column drill, or punching off the side of a middle finger under a 50 ton press. fortunately, I'm vegetable top and bottom)
I personally keep a roll of pvc electrical tape handy with paper towel. When stretched around the injury and wrapped multiple times, it serves well as a tourniquet. When the finger turns deep purple, back off to allow some flow, then redo...simple.
jn
Dude relax it was just an observation about the some what haphazard change the automobile industry has made with what they call things . 5 liter as I remember was the trans-am limit back in the late 60s 302 where 1% less than the limit to be safe. a 4in bore and 3in stroke , As for bolts and nut I don't use imported any more . Do prefer metric and in stainless .
Yes. This snippet from wiki illustrates the whole sorry mess:
British Morris and MG engines from 1923 to 1955 were built using metric threads but with bolt heads and nuts dimensioned for Whitworth spanners (wrenches) and sockets.[6] The background for this was that the engines were produced using machine tools of a previously French-owned company that was set up for metric production; for the average British motorist to be able to service his car, the bolt heads had to fit imperial-sized spanners.
Almost all stuff is metric now, but there are some remnants, including camera and lighting mounts.
I still have a full set of (my dad's) Whitworth spanners, but only brought out from their oily-rag wrap to frighten the grandchildren. (oh - and fix the lawn-mower!)
Triodethom,
No problem, I do see that we do the most trade back and forth, it is just that I never see anything that says made in Canada on it. I know we do make cars there by the boatload but wonder what else besides forest products we are trading? As far as those cheap Asian bolts I am all with you on that, don't trust their metallurgy when it is critical. Bit remember when you use stainless bolts and nuts to use anti-seize on them or you are asking for trouble. Stainless on stainless is a real problem if you aren't careful.
No problem, I do see that we do the most trade back and forth, it is just that I never see anything that says made in Canada on it. I know we do make cars there by the boatload but wonder what else besides forest products we are trading? As far as those cheap Asian bolts I am all with you on that, don't trust their metallurgy when it is critical. Bit remember when you use stainless bolts and nuts to use anti-seize on them or you are asking for trouble. Stainless on stainless is a real problem if you aren't careful.
Cliffforest,
That reminds me of an old road bike I had that was made in France, Gitane if I spelled that right. Every other bike I had from Europe using Campy equipment was interchangeable but the French Campy was a different thread pitch! Why they did that I can't say, taught me that all metric is not the same, watch out for the thread pitch it will get you.
That reminds me of an old road bike I had that was made in France, Gitane if I spelled that right. Every other bike I had from Europe using Campy equipment was interchangeable but the French Campy was a different thread pitch! Why they did that I can't say, taught me that all metric is not the same, watch out for the thread pitch it will get you.
Gee maybe this is the mother lode. I remember Cooper pairs and room temp superconductivity coming up in the explainations of what we were too close minded to accept about the Bybee QP's.
60' How much equipment do you have? I find the IKEA measurements usually end up metric when actually measured, just like all our plywood products are now.
32'' x 60'' (1 inch off) , typo, or 82cm x 150cm.
(As this is an English orientated forum, I tend do inches and feet. Quicky back of the head estimate, as with the mile/feet/inch to yards post. Doesn't always require to be accurate to the last digit, no ? )
Edit : beach was supposed to be beech.
(As this is an English orientated forum, I tend do inches and feet. Quicky back of the head estimate, as with the mile/feet/inch to yards post. Doesn't always require to be accurate to the last digit, no ? )
Edit : beach was supposed to be beech.
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Brings me back memories from B707/B727/B737/B747 fuselage & wings jigging for major structural repairs.
Tobacco is a great bleed stopper.
I stuff the wound with it, then I roll a cigarete and enjoy my stupidity.
George
Campy? Obviously you know your bikes. My ride's a Peugeot PX-10E circa '72. Other than tires, rims, saddle,and the front derailleur, everything's stock. Well, I painted it black..
I do hate my mafac's. There is nothing on this planet that can stop them from squealing other than wd-40. (which I do not recommend of course).
jn
Very nice desk Jacco....but 60 feet long?
You must be throwing pied a terre orgies again!
What's so difficult about the concept of a 60 foot long computer desk??? Once wireless mice showed up, the USB cord length problem went away..
Of course, given that all desks end up covered in piles of paperwork, a 60 foot long desk would need it's own card catalogue..
jn
JNeutron,
Two things usually make the brakes squeal, one is a dirty rim, just clean them real well with some acetone or something staying off the tires, the second solution is to toe the pads in a little so they are not parallel to the rims. I have done this at times by using a crescent wrench on the caliper arms and gently bend them a little bit so the pads are touching in front first. The arms will have enough flex to do this and still when you squeeze tight the pad ends up touching but the squeal will go away. If the pads are really old they get hard and sometimes you just need new pads. Mathouser used to make some pads that had a cup and ball behind the pad that would let you adjust the toe on the pads to do the same thing.
Two things usually make the brakes squeal, one is a dirty rim, just clean them real well with some acetone or something staying off the tires, the second solution is to toe the pads in a little so they are not parallel to the rims. I have done this at times by using a crescent wrench on the caliper arms and gently bend them a little bit so the pads are touching in front first. The arms will have enough flex to do this and still when you squeeze tight the pad ends up touching but the squeal will go away. If the pads are really old they get hard and sometimes you just need new pads. Mathouser used to make some pads that had a cup and ball behind the pad that would let you adjust the toe on the pads to do the same thing.
It's a real problem even if you are careful. The galling is horrible. Great reminder.
I had to tighten a 3 inch dia threaded cap on an assembly to 12klbs normal force on 5 stacked bellvilles, and if there was no antiseize, it was essentially welded on. And even with pre-compression in 2000 lb increments.
I also locked up some T-nuts on a reflex cab when I forgot to lube the stainless capscrews.
jn
Nice hints. Alas, none of them worked. Mafacs are designed to scream and yell when you hit the brakes...
I worked in a bike shop through college. Tried all those, as well as changing rim weight, abrading the pads, different durometer pads, rims with knurled surfaces, radial spoke patterns, 2 cross, 3 cross, 4 cross, combo radial and 3 cross with crossovers soldered using wire and stainless wire flux. Spent years trying different solutions. It got to where I almost replaced the rear hub with a track hub to eliminate the brakes entirely.
So now I just don't use the brakes...easy, no??
jn
Sounds like you have some real experience there JN! I guess I would have just replaced the calipers by that point with another brand, most everything these days is Shimano, I still prefer my Campagnolo gear, you can actually fix them when need be rather than putting them in the trash and buying a new one.
I was a poor student struggling through school. Man, I longed for a set of campy side pulls. They look so clean compared to the mafac center pulls.
What surprises me is the rear simplex criterium still works. The front bracket died of old age.
jn
Use anti seize on them and on the exhaust studs and bolt in that system. Martin Logan speaker for one now Large part of the cars and there parts made across the river. Regards.
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