I used axial leads on mine but so long as the leads are long enough on those radial ones it should be fine.
Hi HoneyBadger,
You may consider to buy 0.22 from mouser
CP0005R2200JB14 Vishay / Dale | Mouser
I am using this type in diyab amp but stock will be in middle of Aug:
LVR05R2200FE12 Vishay / Dale | Mouser
James
You may consider to buy 0.22 from mouser
CP0005R2200JB14 Vishay / Dale | Mouser
I am using this type in diyab amp but stock will be in middle of Aug:
LVR05R2200FE12 Vishay / Dale | Mouser
James
Hi,
I've just found that this project fond its way to the shop. I think I'll try to build it from what I have.
What would be the best input transistors? I have some Fets (sk170 and 370) and plenty of 2sa970/2sc2240BL and none of the 2sa992/1845 or mpsa18. I have plenty of BC550c/560c and 2sa1370-71E and 2sc3467-68E.
Instead of 2sa1381/sc3503 I'll use 2sa1406/sc3600 as I have enough of these.
Probably I'll have to get mje1503x as 2sa1930/sc5171 are not as powerful but I used them to drive triplets.
I'll appeciate any comments and suggestions.
cheers,
Janusz
I've just found that this project fond its way to the shop. I think I'll try to build it from what I have.
What would be the best input transistors? I have some Fets (sk170 and 370) and plenty of 2sa970/2sc2240BL and none of the 2sa992/1845 or mpsa18. I have plenty of BC550c/560c and 2sa1370-71E and 2sc3467-68E.
Instead of 2sa1381/sc3503 I'll use 2sa1406/sc3600 as I have enough of these.
Probably I'll have to get mje1503x as 2sa1930/sc5171 are not as powerful but I used them to drive triplets.
I'll appeciate any comments and suggestions.
cheers,
Janusz
Circuit boards are enough. Parts may come from anywhere, be it Mouser or B&DEnterprises (including hard to find transistors), DgiKey etc ort one's spare parts box.
cheers,
Janusz
Would these work for D 4,5, 8 and 9? The build guide says any 3 amp diode, these are 4 amp.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...ha2pyFadujz7vM%2bsPT5k4WU7696Z7gcnR7LSnSXQGY=
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...ha2pyFadujz7vM%2bsPT5k4WU7696Z7gcnR7LSnSXQGY=
Hello all....
Glad to see things are still going on !
I really did not mean to abandon the thread .... Much has happened lately.
My PC died , had to build a new one . Come back online , my yahoo email was hacked (compromised) for the 3rd time. So .... new quad core HTPC ,new house,
new ISP = no money for audio
.
All is better now , found a pair of Mission 763i's and replaced the bass drivers.
Now I can REALLY hear the full fidelity of my badger prototypes.
I now just about have what I need for 3 amps.
1. Subwoofer amp - I found a 40-0-40VDC PS (below - free!!) This amp will be maxed out , all 3 pair , lower voltage (SOA 4amp per device). This amp will be "down and dirty" MJE340/350 VAS running at 12ma , have to run a 3.2R load in a sealed enclosure.
2. A new 2 channel full range amp. If I cannibalize my present amp , I'll have a nice shielded trafo , 40Kuf , and 60-0-60VDC to work with. These amps will use just 2 pair el cheapo MJW1302/3281. I just have to power the missions ,and my present power stage does so admirably.
I was very surprised to see the Badger actually reviewed . Integrated Amps: An Addicts Guide. - Page 7 - Product Reviews & Personal Opinions (Moderated) - StereoNET Australia
I KNOW this amp outperforms mass produced OEM stuff , but I was amazed to see it auditioned by someone who listens to $$$$ real amps !! Of course Niss's build was awesome and contributed to the outcome.
So , My Email works and has a VERY strong password . I am amazed as my former passwords were quite unique. Anyone spammed by my account ,I am truly sorry. In this increasingly insecure online world ,one must be MUCH more careful .
OS
Glad to see things are still going on !
I really did not mean to abandon the thread .... Much has happened lately.
My PC died , had to build a new one . Come back online , my yahoo email was hacked (compromised) for the 3rd time. So .... new quad core HTPC ,new house,
new ISP = no money for audio
.All is better now , found a pair of Mission 763i's and replaced the bass drivers.
Now I can REALLY hear the full fidelity of my badger prototypes.
I now just about have what I need for 3 amps.
1. Subwoofer amp - I found a 40-0-40VDC PS (below - free!!) This amp will be maxed out , all 3 pair , lower voltage (SOA 4amp per device). This amp will be "down and dirty" MJE340/350 VAS running at 12ma , have to run a 3.2R load in a sealed enclosure.
2. A new 2 channel full range amp. If I cannibalize my present amp , I'll have a nice shielded trafo , 40Kuf , and 60-0-60VDC to work with. These amps will use just 2 pair el cheapo MJW1302/3281. I just have to power the missions ,and my present power stage does so admirably.
I was very surprised to see the Badger actually reviewed . Integrated Amps: An Addicts Guide. - Page 7 - Product Reviews & Personal Opinions (Moderated) - StereoNET Australia
I KNOW this amp outperforms mass produced OEM stuff , but I was amazed to see it auditioned by someone who listens to $$$$ real amps !! Of course Niss's build was awesome and contributed to the outcome.
So , My Email works and has a VERY strong password . I am amazed as my former passwords were quite unique. Anyone spammed by my account ,I am truly sorry. In this increasingly insecure online world ,one must be MUCH more careful
.OS
Attachments
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
Ok, OS, I'll bite. Why amp bits on a cart with a box of kitty litter, cigarettes and a quart or two of oil?
Just testing out my free camera
The pix tells a lot. I'm CHEAP (and green) !!
"green DIY , anyone!"I use no fuel , not burning a forest's worth of carbon to fly or drive around the world. (the cart crossed N. America on burgers and beef jerky)
The cart = more amps and speakers , the litter box has the tools to cannibalize what I find.
Not to get too in depth , but I intend to get what I want for free (or close to it).
I have seen this build described a difficult or involved , I want it to be fun and
easy.
As I see it , there is unfinished business. I think this amp still has a few "flavors" that need to explored. Reading that review I posted above makes me
want to experiment with the input stage devices ... even an FET one. (I want all "9's" - in the review).
No one has used this amp for a powered sub , as well. That's what the "bits"
are for. I have the SUB/enclosure. I just wanted to commit to doing this ..haven't touched a soldering iron in more than a year. Hope I still have what it takes ....
OS
Well, the initial small run of boards is almost out. Since we had lost touch with you OS we had to move some misplaced mounting holes in the Gerber's for the first batch by editing the Gerbers. Since the changes aren't in your original layout files, and we don't have the original layout files we can't revise the board to incorporate some component hole diameters and pitch issues people have mentioned on the thread, not to mention the relocated mounting holes.
So I think the ideal thing would be:
-See if you have the original files you sent us the Gerbers from.
-We coordinate with you getting the mounting holes in the right places
-You incorporate the requested changes by builders to make building "Fun and Easy"
-you add any options or changes. Seems a good idea to keep the circuit very similar what with all the positive comments from people. Would be sad to not have it continue.
So I think the ideal thing would be:
-See if you have the original files you sent us the Gerbers from.
-We coordinate with you getting the mounting holes in the right places
-You incorporate the requested changes by builders to make building "Fun and Easy"
-you add any options or changes. Seems a good idea to keep the circuit very similar what with all the positive comments from people. Would be sad to not have it continue.
Good to see you back OS. The reviewer after listening to the amp even got the urge to build a HB amp and that's coming from someone who doesn't usually do diy. Unfortunately his funds are a bit low atm so the build may be stalled by a couple of months.
The honey badger don't give a ship, it just takes what it wants.
Niss
The honey badger don't give a ship, it just takes what it wants.
Niss
Yep, got it in one niss_man, once my tax return shows up I will be starting down the path of Honey Badger creation (GT racing stripes and all). I've never had the urge to build things myself before listening to the HB. Mod-ing a couple of speaker crossovers and changing out some caps on a couple of integrateds is all I've managed up to now, but..., well..., when you hear something as good as the HB (NM version, complete with racing stripes and air vents for the superchargers) you just want to own one. To own one, I have to build one, so build one I shall.
Hi guys, Niss_man told me that Ostripper had noticed my review so I thought I'd jump over from SNA, join up and say "Hi".
Cheers,
Cafad.
Hi guys, Niss_man told me that Ostripper had noticed my review so I thought I'd jump over from SNA, join up and say "Hi".
Cheers,
Cafad.
Variac ,I have all the original DIYA amp files , luckily all my hard drives survived my PC failure.
I won't just post them without your approval , perhaps I could privately give them to you (asian ripoffs).
Perhaps , if I knew the shortcomings, I could realign/tweak the layout "live"
as I have it all set up already (below). Any suggestions from current owners/builders or DIYA staff would be welcome.
Glad you like the "badger" ! After reading your review I was reignited in my interest for this project. The layout is similar to the ADCOM 535/545. If the separation of this amp is good now , try true dual mono powers supplies !
The input stage is similar to a luxman M-05 , but with a bjt input pair. The ability to use a FET stage is a design option for the badger that I have only
tried once. A FET (voltage controlled)input pair reacts differently to the back EMF produced by the interaction of the speaker/output stage.
I have always considered the loudspeaker components as a part of the amp circuit ... speakers-Xover/output stage/NFB loops (main-and TMC) all interact to give the final sonic impression.
The 4th of my badgers ( 2 for stereo/1 for sub/1 leftover) will be the dedicated "guinea pig" to test out these theories.
I will go to my mouser account to fill a BOM , as well. I feel bad that I never came through with that promise.
I will even create 2 BOM's - one deluxe and one "economy". BTW , economy will still be top quality but easier to source (and cheap).
OS
I won't just post them without your approval , perhaps I could privately give them to you (asian ripoffs
).Perhaps , if I knew the shortcomings, I could realign/tweak the layout "live"
as I have it all set up already (below). Any suggestions from current owners/builders or DIYA staff would be welcome.
Glad you like the "badger" ! After reading your review I was reignited in my interest for this project. The layout is similar to the ADCOM 535/545. If the separation of this amp is good now , try true dual mono powers supplies !
The input stage is similar to a luxman M-05 , but with a bjt input pair. The ability to use a FET stage is a design option for the badger that I have only
tried once. A FET (voltage controlled)input pair reacts differently to the back EMF produced by the interaction of the speaker/output stage.
I have always considered the loudspeaker components as a part of the amp circuit ... speakers-Xover/output stage/NFB loops (main-and TMC) all interact to give the final sonic impression.
The 4th of my badgers ( 2 for stereo/1 for sub/1 leftover) will be the dedicated "guinea pig" to test out these theories.
I will go to my mouser account to fill a BOM , as well. I feel bad that I never came through with that promise.
I will even create 2 BOM's - one deluxe and one "economy". BTW , economy will still be top quality but easier to source (and cheap).
OS
Attachments
Filling a "cart"
Will await your pm.
Mouser improved (updated?) their website. Since I have both the Badgers sprint
and mousers datasheets, I can really be a perfectionist now.
OS
Will await your pm.
Mouser improved (updated?) their website. Since I have both the Badgers sprint
and mousers datasheets, I can really be a perfectionist now.
OS
I'm a novice and am in the middle of this build, if you want my two cents. The biggest hurdle for me was parts selection, but there are some BOMs circulating here that helped- high-end and budget versions would be fantastic.
Here are some other thoughts:
Revise the build guide to state that the jumpers are already in place on the boards.
C18 and C19 do not have the solder pads exposed. I read through the comments here but am still confused as to what to do.
A BOM for the power supplies in the store would be good too, perhaps even for the speaker protection and soft start boards.
A couple of the mounting holes don't have metal inserts, not a big deal though.
OS (and everyone else), thank you so much for all your hard work on this. I've done several projects and your build guide and the board layouts are at least equal to other "commercial" kits and better than most. I think a Mouser BOM is all you guys need to really get this kit moving.
Here are some other thoughts:
Revise the build guide to state that the jumpers are already in place on the boards.
C18 and C19 do not have the solder pads exposed. I read through the comments here but am still confused as to what to do.
A BOM for the power supplies in the store would be good too, perhaps even for the speaker protection and soft start boards.
A couple of the mounting holes don't have metal inserts, not a big deal though.
OS (and everyone else), thank you so much for all your hard work on this. I've done several projects and your build guide and the board layouts are at least equal to other "commercial" kits and better than most. I think a Mouser BOM is all you guys need to really get this kit moving.
C18-19 ....
These are actually optional. The reason for them is to compensate a driver with a very high bandwidth. The MJE15032/33 are low(er) Ft (30mhz) and do not really need them. A high Ft 2SC4793 - 2SA1837 (70-100mhz) used in many japanese output stages might benefit from these caps (most of these amps have them - luxman,nikko, and others). I included them on the board as these faster toshiba devices are a valid substitute for the ON semi drivers.
I highly doubt any stability issues . I've used many a junkbox toshiba with no issue. Adding them with not affect sonics.
Just scratch the solder mask off those pads.
I also noticed the minor issue of the solder mask on the "C/R/Z" jumper, as well.
OS
These are actually optional. The reason for them is to compensate a driver with a very high bandwidth. The MJE15032/33 are low(er) Ft (30mhz) and do not really need them. A high Ft 2SC4793 - 2SA1837 (70-100mhz) used in many japanese output stages might benefit from these caps (most of these amps have them - luxman,nikko, and others). I included them on the board as these faster toshiba devices are a valid substitute for the ON semi drivers.
I highly doubt any stability issues . I've used many a junkbox toshiba with no issue. Adding them with not affect sonics.
Just scratch the solder mask off those pads.
I also noticed the minor issue of the solder mask on the "C/R/Z" jumper, as well.
OS