So I bought about 60 elna silmic II and cerafine caps to do a 5-channels recap project. Little did I know that the soldering technique would be the hard part. I'm using a Stahl variable soldering tool with a semi pointed tip set at about 450 degrees. I bought Johnson lead-free solder from parts connexion, supposedly really good sounding stuff. I'm not sure, I'm sorry to say, if this solder has its own flux, so, I'm using a flux pen to de-oxidize the pcb. Anyway, the solder does not seem to wet very well. I'll solder the leads on the bottom of the pcb's but the solder won't penetrate and fill the pcb holes worth a darn?! Is lead-free solder difficult to work with? Would leaded solder flow and fill the pcb holes easier? frustrating...
450 might be a bit low,depending on the solder. IME,The lead-free stuff needs a bit higher temp than regular solder,in order to melt completely and form a good joint.
Ditto what was said above,
I'd stick with a good brand of regular 60/40 (or 63/37),lead free sucks.
Maybe grab some from RadioShack,their solder is actually decent,even if a bit overpriced.
Ditto what was said above,
I'd stick with a good brand of regular 60/40 (or 63/37),lead free sucks.
Maybe grab some from RadioShack,their solder is actually decent,even if a bit overpriced.
I keep a tin of flux next to me and dip the solder wire into it, this helps on difficult joints. Also this new led free solder definitely needs a higher temp. Sometimes if your components are old the coating on the leads oxidises and is hard to solder so keep your components in airtight zip-lock bags or containers. If the leads are oxidized, a quick wipe with steel wool will clean them.
Mac
Mac
All good advice above. I can only add that if you have room on the top side of the board (suggested by the quote), using a heatsink clip on the component lead will allow you to apply the hot iron tip for a little bit longer to heat the areas to be soldered. Just work carefully; don't overdo it and lift pads.
And if the pcb holes aren't plated-through or with pads both sides, it probably isn't that essential to have solder flow along the component lead to the top side.
When he said 450 I thought he meant Celsius as 450 F - especially for lead free - would be difficult. I don't even like a 600 F Metcal tip. I typically use a Metcal STTC-126 700 F tip. I don't get worried about RoHS and don't use that stuff that medical and the military don't have to use. 60/40 Multicore here.
G²
G²
I have used Cardas Quad Eutectic on my past 6 projects and I will never go back to anything else.
That being said, get some denatured alcohol and a HARD bristle toothbrush.
Scrub all the surfaces you want to solder very well.
With your silver bearing lead free solder I would use 700-750F tip temperature, especially for power traces.
If you still can't quite get the solder to flow cleanly then you may need a higher wattage iron.
I use a Weller WES51 at work and I find it is barely sufficient for large power traces.
I have a buddy that uses a Haako FX-888 and I find it a little better for heavy work than my Weller.
The new FX-888D is probably a little better due to its new temperature control system.
That being said, get some denatured alcohol and a HARD bristle toothbrush.
Scrub all the surfaces you want to solder very well.
With your silver bearing lead free solder I would use 700-750F tip temperature, especially for power traces.
If you still can't quite get the solder to flow cleanly then you may need a higher wattage iron.
I use a Weller WES51 at work and I find it is barely sufficient for large power traces.
I have a buddy that uses a Haako FX-888 and I find it a little better for heavy work than my Weller.
The new FX-888D is probably a little better due to its new temperature control system.
Radio Shack sells a small spool of 2% silver (tin/lead) eutectic solder. I know who the mfr is, and it is pretty good solder, wets well. Pretty easy to find.
Look out for random "flux" some flux is corrosive, and intended for plumbing joints. Not good for most electronic applications.
Lead free just doesn't work well, that I have seen thus far...
...no need for hobbyists in North America to use it. Dunno about the rest of the world.
_-_-bear
Look out for random "flux" some flux is corrosive, and intended for plumbing joints. Not good for most electronic applications.
Lead free just doesn't work well, that I have seen thus far...
...no need for hobbyists in North America to use it. Dunno about the rest of the world.
_-_-bear
Hello!
I had the same problems until I changed an iron to a bigger one (18W was not enough).
I tried Stannol soldering wire and found it very nice but experienced that LF wire is not so easy for novice.
Being not an expert, I would rather agree that lead free is too much for hobby...
Also notice that flux is the key for good joint.
Lately I found a nice tutorial - please look at this:
EEVblog #180 - Soldering Tutorial Part 1 - Tools
EEVblog #183 - Soldering Tutorial Part 2
EEVblog #186 - Soldering Tutorial Part 3 - Surface Mount
Best regards, Anton
I had the same problems until I changed an iron to a bigger one (18W was not enough).
I tried Stannol soldering wire and found it very nice but experienced that LF wire is not so easy for novice.
Being not an expert, I would rather agree that lead free is too much for hobby...
Also notice that flux is the key for good joint.
Lately I found a nice tutorial - please look at this:
EEVblog #180 - Soldering Tutorial Part 1 - Tools
EEVblog #183 - Soldering Tutorial Part 2
EEVblog #186 - Soldering Tutorial Part 3 - Surface Mount
Best regards, Anton
The tip can be a big difference, not just the temp. I use an old Weller production iron. 60W with 600, 700 or 800 tips, but they go from a tiny needle to a big wedge. The big wedge works when you need big cable onto big tabs or planes, where the tiny tip is for IC's. It's the mass of the tip. Second is flux. Don;t depend on the weak flux in the solder core when doing a buss or plane joint. Get a tin of activated flux and past it on. Even though it is "activated", you should still clean it off. If the 60W wedge won't do it, the out comes my 600W Weller gun.
I have several pounds of good old Kester 40/60 stashed.
I have several pounds of good old Kester 40/60 stashed.
A temperature controlled iron pretty much solves this problem. They regulate power to achieve an stable temp, so if it feels it decreasing, it just heat it more.
I use this one, which provides up to 80W when needed. So it heats up very fast, you can solder in less than 8 seconds since switched on.
http://www.weller.de/products/product.php?pid=1202
I can only second that 80W Weller! I've had mine at work for over 10 years now, and I won't cahnge it for anything! That said, the Metcals have a different way of supplying heat to the joint, and actually works better for larger ground planes. 25W is way to low for g.planes, in my opinion.
- and BTW - lead-free also requires special purpose fluxes..........
( and I hate both of them ! I have enough regular solder to last my time... )
- and BTW - lead-free also requires special purpose fluxes..........
( and I hate both of them !
I have enough regular solder to last my time... )
The heat regulation works even better (faster). Large Pads, RCA sockets or even Heatsinks can be soldered easily withot getting very hot, because the heat is put in fast enough to make the solder joint immediately. 3-4 seconds after Poweron you can solder. Therefore the iron can even be put in standby in the holder without much waiting when you want to continue.
The way the tips are changed is superbly simple.
And (although thats quite a matter oft taste probably) I much more like the handling and weight of the iron.
The way the tips are changed is superbly simple.
And (although thats quite a matter oft taste probably) I much more like the handling and weight of the iron.
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