Acoustat Answer Man is here

Acoustat Spectra 11s/1100s where the least expensive of the Acoustat line but well worth $400 at least for me it's a very good start into the panel world for me it all started in 1984 and it is still going on in 2012 if you have the room may i suggest that you go for any of the 94 inches high double stacked models they will be the last speakers you will ever buy 1+1s - 2+2s - Spectra 44s - 4400s - 6s - 66s - 6600s - and finaly the 8s not to many of those around.MrAcoustat

Flickr: mracoustat's Photostream
 
What about model 3's ....?

Hy i like ALL Acoustat's but i prefer the double stacked 94 inches models there is something special going on with the panels up there but you do need an 8 foot ceiling BUT if you have it go for it you will have friend's for life.

For more information this link should answer many of your questions.

http://www.audiocircuit.com/Home-Audio/Acoustat
 
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....the caps take a while to charge up from those little wall warts....

Some folks may infer from your comment that the rate at which the panels initially charge is somehow limited by the 'little wall warts'. Allow me to assure everyone that this is NOT the case. Although some Acoustat owners (myself included) have replaced their wall transformers with something more robust, the time to reach full charge is solely dependent on the characteristics of the internal bias power supply and the panels themselves. Unless you won't be listening for an extended period, Acoustat always recommended that the speakers remain energized at all times.

Another comment above offered the advice to dis-assemble the speaker before moving it. This is indeed wise advise, and becomes essential for the larger models. The frame assemblies are not designed to carry the weight of the base and interface units, and picking up the speaker as a whole will very likely damage the frame internally. If you need to move the speaker just a short distance, such as for fine-tuning the speaker's position, always grab the speaker by the base and slide it around on the floor. Do not grab the frame, as this will result in a torsional force on the frame that could easily cause damage. My Spectra 4400's, which I bought used, had been moved without disassembly before I took ownership. I had to do quite a bit of gluing and reinforcing of the frames to repair the damage that resulted from this mishandling.
 
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Charge up time for panels is NOT the end of the world, with all kinds of mods done to six different pair of Acoustat's i believe that discharged completely as soon as you plug them you CAN listend to them, after about 6 hours they start to sound pretty darn good, after 24 i think that they are 90% charged and after 48 if not at 100% they are pretty darn close, but for ME i would rather listend to a pair of Acoustat's after 6 hours than a pair of boxed speakers, of course i'm not biased one bit.
 
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Bought the Spectra 11's. I wasn't that impressed when I listened to them in the sellers room, but bought them anyway. Now that I've set them up at home and listened to them for a few hours I think they sound pretty darn amazing (scary thing they'll probably sound even better after a few days of playing and tweaking). Probably the best speakers I've heard except maybe for the ML ElectroMotions. Considering I payed about $400 it's easily the best hifi purchase I've ever done. :)

Thanks guys for helping me out.
 
Bought the Spectra 11's. I wasn't that impressed when I listened to them in the sellers room, but bought them anyway. Now that I've set them up at home and listened to them for a few hours I think they sound pretty darn amazing (scary thing they'll probably sound even better after a few days of playing and tweaking). Probably the best speakers I've heard except maybe for the ML ElectroMotions. Considering I payed about $400 it's easily the best hifi purchase I've ever done. :)

Thanks guys for helping me out.

I don't know what you are using for amplification but one thing i can tell you is that GOOD amplification will get you the maximum out of those speakers and for me your NEXT step up will be FULL RANGE 94 inches high models welcome to the Acoustat proud owners club and enjoy your new venture.
 
I don't know what you are using for amplification but one thing i can tell you is that GOOD amplification will get you the maximum out of those speakers and for me your NEXT step up will be FULL RANGE 94 inches high models welcome to the Acoustat proud owners club and enjoy your new venture.
I have an idea to have add an active XO and only use the ESL panels of the Spectras and feed everything below 250 Hz to my active subs. For the ESL panels I would buy a powerful amp suitable for the load. What do you think about this? Is it easy to bypass the XO in the Spectras?
 
I have an idea to have add an active XO and only use the ESL panels of the Spectras and feed everything below 250 Hz to my active subs. For the ESL panels I would buy a powerful amp suitable for the load. What do you think about this? Is it easy to bypass the XO in the Spectras?

For technical information please send me your e-mail address at mracoustat@videotron.ca and i will send you my friend Jocelyn's e-mail address he is the one that does the mods and rebuilds of Acoustat's here in Quebec Canada probably not the only one but he his very qualified as for me i'm simply a very long time user of Acoustat's 1984 but technicaly i'm very close to 0 in knowledge.
 
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phaser99,

I added speaker input connections to my 1100's interface panel, and disconnected the internal connection from the crossover in the woofer box, so I could bi-amp them. This is pretty easy to do for someone with a little experience in electronics, assuming you have the circuit diagrams (included in the User manual).

An active XO and multiple amps sounds like a good idea, assuming that your subs can work up to 250hz. Integrating the Acoustat panels with a woofer is a difficult proposition, but with enough control over crossover point, slope and level you have a good shot at it.

I also strongly recommend that you replace the 100 and 10 mfd caps in the Interface, with some good polyproprolene ones, since the audio signal has to pass through them. Solen is a cost effective brand, but there are lots of better, but more expensive choices. You will be amazed at the improvement in the panels sound quality !

Dave


I have an idea to have add an active XO and only use the ESL panels of the Spectras and feed everything below 250 Hz to my active subs. For the ESL panels I would buy a powerful amp suitable for the load. What do you think about this? Is it easy to bypass the XO in the Spectras?
 
phaser99,
I added speaker input connections to my 1100's interface panel, and disconnected the internal connection from the crossover in the woofer box, so I could bi-amp them. This is pretty easy to do for someone with a little experience in electronics, assuming you have the circuit diagrams (included in the User manual).

An active XO and multiple amps sounds like a good idea, assuming that your subs can work up to 250hz. Integrating the Acoustat panels with a woofer is a difficult proposition, but with enough control over crossover point, slope and level you have a good shot at it.
The woofer sounds pretty good now when I let my amp feed everything below 90 Hz to my subs, so I'll leave the XO for now.
I also strongly recommend that you replace the 100 and 10 mfd caps in the Interface, with some good polyproprolene ones, since the audio signal has to pass through them. Solen is a cost effective brand, but there are lots of better, but more expensive choices. You will be amazed at the improvement in the panels sound quality !
Dave
Sounds like an easy upgrade even for an inexperienced electrician like myself. Looking at the interface schematics from Hifi manuals I only see a 47, 470, 100 and 150 mfd cap. Am I missing something?
 
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phazer99,

There is a 100 mfd electrolytic bypassed with a 10 mfd (??) just before the 'high frequency contour' switch, which feeds the transformers. These are the ones that should be replaced, as the entire signal for the panels go through them. They are on the larger board in the interface, opposite from the panel wires.

Do you have a schemetic for the speakers ? It is in the 1100's User manual, and available on the Audio Circle. You really need to get a copy before you start fooling around inside.

The other caps are used in the HV bias supply, and no real need to mess with them.

Here is my modded 1100 interface:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Dave


The woofer sounds pretty good now when I let my amp feed everything below 90 Hz to my subs, so I'll leave the XO for now.

Sounds like an easy upgrade even for an inexperienced electrician like myself. Looking at the interface schematics from Hifi manuals I only see a 47, 470, 100 and 150 mfd cap. Am I missing something?
 
phazer99,

There is a 100 mfd electrolytic bypassed with a 10 mfd (??) just before the 'high frequency contour' switch, which feeds the transformers. These are the ones that should be replaced, as the entire signal for the panels go through them. They are on the larger board in the interface, opposite from the panel wires.

Do you have a schemetic for the speakers ? It is in the 1100's User manual, and available on the Audio Circle. You really need to get a copy before you start fooling around inside.
Ah, I have a Spectra 11 and was looking at the schematics for it's interface. For the Spectra 11 there is only one 100 mfd cap between the input and the transformers it seems.

Will replacing the cap require adjustment of the bias supply? Cause it looks a bit complicated with high voltage measurement. :confused:

What's the point of the 10 mfd cap, and is there any advantage in adding it to the Spectra 11?

Also, the Spectra 1100 interface is a bit different in having an "high frequency contour" switch. What's the purpose of this construction, and is it worth replicating it in the Spectra 11?
 
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Ah, I have a Spectra 11 and was looking at the schematics for it's interface. For the Spectra 11 there is only one 100 mfd cap between the input and the transformers it seems.

Will replacing the cap require adjustment of the bias supply? Cause it looks a bit complicated with high voltage measurement. :confused:

What's the point of the 10 mfd cap, and is there any advantage in adding it to the Spectra 11?

Also, the Spectra 1100 interface is a bit different in having an "high frequency contour" switch. What's the purpose of this construction, and is it worth replicating it in the Spectra 11?

Replacing any of the capacitors in the audio path will not require adjustment of the bias voltage - they are independent circuits.

The purpose of the 10-uF capacitor across the 100-uF capacitor is to improve the high-frequency performance. This feature was left out of the Spectra 11 due to cost constraints. If you plan on replacing the electrolytic with a film type, including the 10-uF is a good idea, too.

The high frequency contour switch was not included in the Spectra 11, again for cost reasons. It can be added to the Spectra 11 if you like. Keep in mind that the switch can only REDUCE the amount of top-octave energy, so unless you find the speakers overly bright, there is no advantage to adding the extra circuitry. Most people, myself included, operate the Spectra 1100 with the switch in the 'high' position.
 
Questions on Acoustat 2

Folks,

I have a pair of Acoustat 2's with Medallion interfaces from a pair of 1's, in which I upgraded the capacitors (huge difference, BTW)

I tried hard to separate the base from the main structure to remove the socks but no luck. Any secrets there?

My pair is composed of panels from different production lines. On one the electrostatic panels are secured with metal screws and on the other with plastic screws. Which one is the latest version? Are there any other differences? To me the panels sound similar.

Many thanks!

Christos.
 
to remove the socks, you remove the metal plate on the top, take out the bazillion staples (what for they put so many?), pull down the socks. You have to take the screws out that hold the base to the panels and take that part off to get at the bottom side of the socks...

been there done that.

_-_-bear
 
Folks,

I have a pair of Acoustat 2's with Medallion interfaces from a pair of 1's, in which I upgraded the capacitors (huge difference, BTW)

I tried hard to separate the base from the main structure to remove the socks but no luck. Any secrets there?

My pair is composed of panels from different production lines. On one the electrostatic panels are secured with metal screws and on the other with plastic screws. Which one is the latest version? Are there any other differences? To me the panels sound similar.

Many thanks!

Christos.

Hi Christos, if you ever want to buy new socks for your Acoustat's here is the place to buy the original you can buy them ready to install or just the material your choice.

The Upholstery Company Inc. Fine Upholstery Service | Mesa AZ | Tempe AZ
 
Hi Christos, if you ever want to buy new socks for your Acoustat's here is the place to buy the original you can buy them ready to install or just the material your choice.

Based on a recommendation from a user on the Planar Asylum, I made new socks from stretched Spandex material for my 2+2; they look great, and are much better than the stock socks, sound-wise. When stretched, the Spandex ends up being semi-transparent when viewing up close, and is much more acoustically transparent (less muffled) than the heavy cloth stock socks. Spandex also comes in a huge range of colors or even prints, if you prefer. Apparently, Sound Lab uses Spandex for their covers.
 
Based on a recommendation from a user on the Planar Asylum, I made new socks from stretched Spandex material for my 2+2; they look great, and are much better than the stock socks, sound-wise. When stretched, the Spandex ends up being semi-transparent when viewing up close, and is much more acoustically transparent (less muffled) than the heavy cloth stock socks. Spandex also comes in a huge range of colors or even prints, if you prefer. Apparently, Sound Lab uses Spandex for their covers.

No problem that is what i also use on mine but many prefer the original material yes it is thicker but it also last's longer.