I hear good things about silver, Teflon does have low capacitance, good for some applications, like tight wound high induction air coils etc.
Please yourself at the end of the day.
Just know that there really is no "wonder wire" despite expensive cables being available.
Things that are important are gauge, good conductors and proper type for the application. ex: Stranded wire for durability etc.
Form follows function.
Money can almost always be used to upgrade something else that will give an audible result.
Please yourself at the end of the day.
Just know that there really is no "wonder wire" despite expensive cables being available.
Things that are important are gauge, good conductors and proper type for the application. ex: Stranded wire for durability etc.
Form follows function.
Money can almost always be used to upgrade something else that will give an audible result.
3 x Cat6a = 1 poor man's Litz wire.
I only promise it will look terrible,
not be flexible, and massive pain
to terminate the bundle each end..
12 twisted pairs in parallel. Each of
100ohms with slightly different twist.
Will give you 8.3ohms characteristic
impedance, for one speaker, good to
500MHz. Overkill enough?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Litz_wire
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_6_cable
I would just use zip cord...
I only promise it will look terrible,
not be flexible, and massive pain
to terminate the bundle each end..
12 twisted pairs in parallel. Each of
100ohms with slightly different twist.
Will give you 8.3ohms characteristic
impedance, for one speaker, good to
500MHz. Overkill enough?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Litz_wire
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_6_cable
I would just use zip cord...
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These are for your terminal cups? The crappy brass ones that came with it are the best. They look as though they belong there and you'll have to stay up pretty late to convince yourself that you notice a difference in 4 inches of wire.
Cheers.
Hi,
Simple answer is don't bother with them at all. Strip and solder tin extended
long ends of your speaker cable and simply use that to bridge the terminals.
rgds, sreten.
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I don't doubt that for a minute, but if you measure a cable and it has similar L, C and R then it is just as likely you are hearing a difference in the termination of that wire as the wire itself. Oxidization comes to mind.
The sreten's suggestion is a good one. It's what I do when those brass things go missing, except that I don't tin the end as I feel there is a chance of less contact area when you tin them.
Gad. Snake oil salesmen have taken folks for a ride again. Almost ANYTHING will do fine. Use what came with speakers. One of these days, everyone should open up a speaker and see what is inside. What is important is it is a good solid connection. Binding posts are not that great to start with. If you want "perfect" jumpers, just pull the plate and solder 16 gauge zip cord between the terminals. The bi-wire terminals were a scam to sell wire in the first place as that was the only product in a store with enough margin to keep the doors open. The very worst jumpers are not the weak point in the chain.
Some of the best sounding speaker wire is plain old 2.5mm household wiring.
It's not pretty but it beat the competition in a blind listening test at Sevenoaks Hi-Fi Emporium.
Try these people if you want UP-OCC silver and teflon. I use them to make plaited interconnects, and I like the sound of them.AUDIO WIRE TUBING, Shuguang Beijing Tubes items in music-in-life store on eBay!
If it beat the competition, then there was something VERY wrong with the competition's design. Yes simple everyday wire is good enough for not only for jumpers but most runs of speaker wire. I was being sarcastic in my post, I find fancy overpriced wire to be a waste of money.
I've had good experience replacing jumpers with copper foil cut to shape out of Alphacore inductors. Small but worthwhile improvement over factory jumpers.
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