Ok I will ! Funny this I have built over 100 diy project in my time !
Anyway I do not have pin 1 this is RCA input.Pin 4 is ground.
Did you do this right Erlend?:
The audio input is differential. This means that ground is not part of the audio signal. When connecting an unbalanced source, treat pins 1 and 2 as a floating input with pin 2 being the “audio ground” of the source. Pin 4 may be used to attach the shield of a shielded twisted pair cable, but the “audio ground” connection of an unbalanced source should never connect here.
Did you do this right Erlend?:
The audio input is differential. This means that ground is not part of the audio signal. When connecting an unbalanced source, treat pins 1 and 2 as a floating input with pin 2 being the “audio ground” of the source. Pin 4 may be used to attach the shield of a shielded twisted pair cable, but the “audio ground” connection of an unbalanced source should never connect here.
Well than do not read it ! For me right now it is not booring. Do I have to read over 200 pages to know how to do this ?
Without the shield to ground at the input there is 1,7 v dc at the output.
Well I can not bring this amplifiers to the club tonight.
Why don't you go through this: http://www.hypex.nl/docs/NC400_datasheet.pdf
At the end it's explained exactly how to connect the unbalanced connection.
At the end it's explained exactly how to connect the unbalanced connection.
Well I have done that several times. I will read trough those last pages tomorrow then.
Since we're on the "boring" subject of grounding and what not...
For guys using balanced connections, are you connecting the shield to the xlr body and case as well? Would this be necessary to do for the nampon to work when hooking it up to the case? Does this matter at all if the chassis is grounded to earth? Same wiring earthed or not?
Also when making your xlr cables benefit to jumping the shielding to the metal body?
For guys using balanced connections, are you connecting the shield to the xlr body and case as well? Would this be necessary to do for the nampon to work when hooking it up to the case? Does this matter at all if the chassis is grounded to earth? Same wiring earthed or not?
Also when making your xlr cables benefit to jumping the shielding to the metal body?
@mike_mcf
I'm not in agreement with you on the second choice of passive volume attenuators... The transformer or autoformer has many issues like frequency rollof, sound coloration to name a few...
R2R ladder is way better in my book. It always depend on how it is build and the quality of components but it is extremely hard to beat unless of course you do it in the digital domain (like the ES9018 digital volume control). The only ennoying thing is the clicking sound... I cannot comment on LDRs since I have yet to try one but Uriah Dailey's Lighter Note seems like a good start for trying something new...
I did many R2R ladder build and bought many but the one that stand out is AMBs o1 The δ1 Relay-based R-2R Stereo Attenuator which is truly good.
I guess it all comes down to personal taste in the end...
Ciao!
Do
Got one amp rocking so far!
I'm sure this has been covered but I wouldn't know where to look since we're 300+ pages in.
I don't have a preamp, my dac has volume control so I got dac -> ncore. I currently just have a power switch for 120VAC an the nampon wire is attached to ground.
If I leave the amp on and shut the switch on the dac I obviously get really loud pop/crack/static, if I shut the power switch to the amp first I still get a loud pop. Is the best method to just put a small toggle switch for the nampon wire and shut that off? I'd rather not be constantly switching the 120VAC. Also any speaker noise when switching the nampon wire?
I'm sure this has been covered but I wouldn't know where to look since we're 300+ pages in.
I don't have a preamp, my dac has volume control so I got dac -> ncore. I currently just have a power switch for 120VAC an the nampon wire is attached to ground.
If I leave the amp on and shut the switch on the dac I obviously get really loud pop/crack/static, if I shut the power switch to the amp first I still get a loud pop. Is the best method to just put a small toggle switch for the nampon wire and shut that off? I'd rather not be constantly switching the 120VAC. Also any speaker noise when switching the nampon wire?
Are you using the SMPS600, or some other power supply? The SMPS600 has a SMPS standby input.
It also sounds like you have some DC on your DAC output. Have you measured the DC component on the output?
SMPS NC400 connections
Hi im currently assembling a stereo amp using 2xNC400 and one SMPS600.
I therefore need to create a Y-cable to connect the modules with the supply.
Id like to ask the following as Im keen on simplifying the task.
Are the NC400 modules only using J7 pins 1,6,7 & 12?
If this is true can I then make the Y connector by connecting the SMPS600 J2 pins 1,6,7&12 to the respective J7 pins on NC400 a) and the SMPS600 J2 pins 2,6,8,12 to NC400 b) pins J7: 1,6,7&12 ?
One other, I only have a simple toggle-switch at the moment, can I connect both nAMPON to the toggle switch so I toggle both to chassis (ground) when the switch is closed?
Best regards
Kjartan
Hi im currently assembling a stereo amp using 2xNC400 and one SMPS600.
I therefore need to create a Y-cable to connect the modules with the supply.
Id like to ask the following as Im keen on simplifying the task.
Are the NC400 modules only using J7 pins 1,6,7 & 12?
If this is true can I then make the Y connector by connecting the SMPS600 J2 pins 1,6,7&12 to the respective J7 pins on NC400 a) and the SMPS600 J2 pins 2,6,8,12 to NC400 b) pins J7: 1,6,7&12 ?
One other, I only have a simple toggle-switch at the moment, can I connect both nAMPON to the toggle switch so I toggle both to chassis (ground) when the switch is closed?
Best regards
Kjartan
As far as I understand, they are using at least pin 5, nFATAL, and pin 11, VDR. The ones where there are multiple pins for the same function it could be to provide enough current capacity/low contact resistance, so I have connected all leads in my Y cable.
The nAMPON has weak pull-up, so you are OK connecting both of them to one switch.
Kbergsson
It seems like you're making life hard for yourself & I can't understand why
- j7 on the amp is designed for a pin to pin connection to j2 on the smps
- you get an unterminated lead with each amp
so join/crimp those 2 leads together into a matching single plug at the smps, both pin 1s, both pin 2s etc.
It seems like you're making life hard for yourself & I can't understand why
- j7 on the amp is designed for a pin to pin connection to j2 on the smps
- you get an unterminated lead with each amp
so join/crimp those 2 leads together into a matching single plug at the smps, both pin 1s, both pin 2s etc.
Hi ChrisPa, "a matching single plug" is what I dont have and will probably take all easter to get a plug by mailorder.
Regards
Kjartan
Thanks Julf. I usually only play with crossovers and hardwired tube amps, so I dont have any fancy connectors. There is no DIY Electronics store within reach. I will do as you did and make a fully connected Y.
Regards
Kjartan
in which case splice one the amp supply cables (connector at one end only) into one of the smps supply cables (connector at both ends) but still keeping everything 1 to 1
Hej, Kjartan,
Actually, you shouldn't need any extra connectors. The nc400 comes with a single-ended cable with the 8-pin connector, and the smps600 with a cable with connectors at both ends. All you need to do is cut (or strip, if you are feeling extremely dexterous) the cable from the smps600 in the middle, and solder in the cable ends from the nc400 cable - resulting in a 8-wire Y cable.
Julf
Actually, you shouldn't need any extra connectors. The nc400 comes with a single-ended cable with the 8-pin connector, and the smps600 with a cable with connectors at both ends. All you need to do is cut (or strip, if you are feeling extremely dexterous) the cable from the smps600 in the middle, and solder in the cable ends from the nc400 cable - resulting in a 8-wire Y cable.
Julf
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