You're welcome
I've had a similar experience with the output resistor of the MyRef...
Between Caddocks MP, Xicon cement wire and Mills MRA the Mills where the less detailed and more confused.
I can't figure out why I didn't tried them earlier on the DCB1...
I'm tempted to order some 3R3 of those Caddock's and make me a good hotrodded DCB1
Take in account that those Caddocks need an heatsink, particularly if you go higher with current.
This one is suitable for 10R and maybe also for 3R3, but it should be verified:
532-577202B00
In this moment I'm using them without heatsink and temperature is 47°C
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How's everyone enjoying their DCB1?
Been having a blast with mine these few months, it's simply wonderful. But the time has come for me to take it one step up, hehe.
I'm ordering a TKD 2S2511 25k attenuator to replace the valab/gigaworks stepped one i've been using. i still don't trust the chinese fully
I've read that the 25k resistance TKD lists is for BOTH channels, combined. Is that the standard naming system? I've always thought that it is PER channel. Correct me if i'm wrong.
I'm looking at upgrading the resistors as well. I've followed some of the posts and want to confirm if the most critical resistor spot are the 220R? TX2352 are going to cost a pretty penny, i don't think i can afford those. I wonder if swapping all the resistors out for PRPs is a good idea? Or maybe one of the cheaper caddocks like the MK132/MK930 for the 220R and PRP for the rest?
By the way, anyone knows why percy only has 221R, no 220R? PCX is the opposite. Or can i use 221R as a substitute for 220R?
Been having a blast with mine these few months, it's simply wonderful. But the time has come for me to take it one step up, hehe.
I'm ordering a TKD 2S2511 25k attenuator to replace the valab/gigaworks stepped one i've been using. i still don't trust the chinese fully
I've read that the 25k resistance TKD lists is for BOTH channels, combined. Is that the standard naming system? I've always thought that it is PER channel. Correct me if i'm wrong.
I'm looking at upgrading the resistors as well. I've followed some of the posts and want to confirm if the most critical resistor spot are the 220R? TX2352 are going to cost a pretty penny, i don't think i can afford those. I wonder if swapping all the resistors out for PRPs is a good idea? Or maybe one of the cheaper caddocks like the MK132/MK930 for the 220R and PRP for the rest?
By the way, anyone knows why percy only has 221R, no 220R? PCX is the opposite. Or can i use 221R as a substitute for 220R?
220 is from the E3 series of values. That makes this value freely available for many different electronic components.
221 is from the E96 series of values. That makes it very rare to be made or kept in stock for any electronic components.
Yes, it can be used as a substitute for a 1%, or 2%, or 5%, or 10% tolerance 220r, but not as a substitute for a 0.5%, nor for a 0.1% tolerance 220r.
221 is from the E96 series of values. That makes it very rare to be made or kept in stock for any electronic components.
Yes, it can be used as a substitute for a 1%, or 2%, or 5%, or 10% tolerance 220r, but not as a substitute for a 0.5%, nor for a 0.1% tolerance 220r.
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This is how it looks so far. Going with 10R resistors on this one (also have 3R3 version). Hope it works when I fire it up
Walter
What are the white pads under the fets? Those things are thick!
This is how it looks so far. Going with 10R resistors on this one (also have 3R3 version). Hope it works when I fire it up
Walter
Walter,
Very nice build. Where did you get the heatsink? Do you think the heatsink will handle 3R3? Will you mount it flat or upright?
This is how it looks so far. Going with 10R resistors on this one (also have 3R3 version). Hope it works when I fire it up
Wow!
It's a great looking build with a very good selection of components, except one thing:
Panasonic FCs for the 100uF decoupling caps...
If you use Cerafines or, if you can find it, Blackgates it would be perfect
The heatsink I already had and is from Conrad. For the 3R3 version I'm gonna order one that is 50mm wider and 15mm higher (200x150x40).
The idea is to mount it upside down in the topplate of a housing so the heatsink is facing upwards.