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What amp to build? Push Pull, SE? thoughts?

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No offense, but you all just go off on your own tangents all the time, don't you.

OP has EL84, 12AX7.

No mention of 12AT7, 45s, 4P1L, blah, blah, blah.

Please stick to the subject at hand.

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/i...5StereoAmp.gif

Oh, very sorry... blah blah blah. Perhaps you should check your own posts and/or learn to cut/paste before critiquing other posts... but hey, no offense taken :D

Regards, KM
 
Oh, very sorry... blah blah blah. Perhaps you should check your own posts and/or learn to cut/paste before critiquing other posts... but hey, no offense taken :D

Regards, KM

I do regret very much that post. This forum is no place for nonsense like that. Must have been having a bad moment, but that's really no excuse. I do apologize to all involved. That was a cut/paste error but I did correct it. :eek:
 
I do regret very much that post. This forum is no place for nonsense like that. Must have been having a bad moment, but that's really no excuse. I do apologize to all involved. That was a cut/paste error but I did correct it. :eek:

It's Ok. :)
We are still chatting a little bit waiting for an answer, which output transformers he has, in order to understand which amp, PP or SE, it is better to build using them. ;)
 
Those who like SE know music and what it is supposed to sound like, those who like PP only care about loud and they obviously don't know music.

I like both so where does that leave me???????? The SE amps do favor detail and have a unique sound signature, and yes the 45 SE does sound the best, but a perfectly good SE amp can be built with EL84's. The P-P amps favor dynamics and yes, I can get real loud with 125 WPC and 96db speakers. Those who know music choose the right amp for the task at hand.

These debates are pointless because the OP has transformers that were designed for SE operation. They will not work for P-P, so that choice is made. There is no UL tap so it's either 2 watts in triode or maybe 5 watts in pentode. Look at the efficiency rating of your speakers and the type of music you play. If 2 watts will work for you, then build a triode amp. If not a pentode amp with some type of feedback will get you more power.
 
hehe, with all do respect you may comment, suggest, or give me new ideas! I appreciate it.

As I said I have these OT`s : http://www.ebay.com/itm/260811685315?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Output: 5W (20hz)
Silicone steel plate size: EI 66mm, Stack thinkness is 35mm
Material of silicone steel plate: New 35H360(H14) silicone steel
Frequency Response: 20Hz-40KHz,-3dB
Primary impedance: 5.5Kohm
Secondary impedance: 4 Ohm, 8Ohm
Primary copper impedance: 424Ω(B-P)
Inductance: 35H(40Hz,5Vrms, Testing equipment: HIOKI 3522-50 LCR Meter)
Max. current of primary: 60MA
Weight: 3KG
 
I do regret very much that post. This forum is no place for nonsense like that. Must have been having a bad moment, but that's really no excuse. I do apologize to all involved. That was a cut/paste error but I did correct it. :eek:

Hey, no problem from my end... EL84 is a good tube... it was my first SE amplifier with a 6AU6 driver and 6BW4 rectifier, my Dad designed and built it for me when I was 7. I used it for 10+ years until the power transformer finally gave up the ghost.

Anyway, the OPTs he linked look reasonable overall... but a bit light on LF response. Could use it with a few different output tubes. But as they are an unknown mostly, some experimentation with feedback loops will likely get an acceptable performance.

Keep posting, keep smiling.

Regards, KM
 
hehe, with all do respect you may comment, suggest, or give me new ideas! I appreciate it.

As I said I have these OT`s : eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

Output: 5W (20hz)
Silicone steel plate size: EI 66mm, Stack thinkness is 35mm
Material of silicone steel plate: New 35H360(H14) silicone steel
Frequency Response: 20Hz-40KHz,-3dB
Primary impedance: 5.5Kohm
Secondary impedance: 4 Ohm, 8Ohm
Primary copper impedance: 424Ω(B-P)
Inductance: 35H(40Hz,5Vrms, Testing equipment: HIOKI 3522-50 LCR Meter)
Max. current of primary: 60MA
Weight: 3KG

They look like excellent transformers for biamped system: SE tube for mid-highs, and solid state for bass.
 
I like both so where does that leave me???????? The SE amps do favor detail and have a unique sound signature, and yes the 45 SE does sound the best, but a perfectly good SE amp can be built with EL84's. The P-P amps favor dynamics and yes, I can get real loud with 125 WPC and 96db speakers. Those who know music choose the right amp for the task at hand.

I'm humbly retracting my statement about SE vs. PP and knowing music. I recently built a 6CA7 push-pull amp, and yes, it is more dynamic than my SE. :eek:
 
If I want Norah to sing for me in my living room, I use a 45 SE through full range speakers. If I want to fend off the bassers in the neighborhood, Metallica through 125 WPC of P-P power into 96 db speakers does the job.

For the best all round compromise, a P-P 300B amp with a touch of intentional imbalance will sound a lot like a DHT SE amp until you crank it, then its P-P punch and dynamics come through.

None of these are good choices for a first amp, especially when the builder has tubes and transformers for a SE EL84 already. An SE EL84 can be made to sound quite nice too.
 
My preference is always with a good Class A PP amplifier.
Schade is a good compromise between SE & PP. Generally far more punchy than a traditional SE. I will not recommend the RH84 as I consider it a poor implementation of the concept - but something along those line should do nicely.

Shoog
 
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Joined 2004
I recently built a 6CA7 push-pull amp, and yes, it is more dynamic than my SE.

For the best all round compromise, a P-P 300B amp with a touch of intentional imbalance will sound a lot like a DHT SE amp until you crank it, then its P-P punch and dynamics come through.


My preference is always with a good Class A PP amplifier.

Yes, yes and yes. There are very bad sounding push pull amps out there and I believe that's the reason for the popularity of SE designs. I have nothing against SE amps, some of them sound really nice but after many builds I've found in class A push pull triodes my personal nirvana. The female voice not as ooooohhh as in a good SE amp but, as Tubelab says, very close if the amp is not perfectly balanced (who is anyway?) .
 
Class A PP triode zero feedback is definitely the minority option for PP. I dare say that most of the popularity of SE is directly due to the fact that almost all PP amps are heavily biased into class B and use pentodes. Apples and Oranges as far as I am concerned.

Most people endlessly paw over details of every single component in their SE builds and then declare them superior to the Williamson or Mullard PP amp made from crappy parts !! The worst thing is that most of them don't even understand why the comparison is so unfair.

Shoog
 
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