I"d check the grid resistor connections and and coupling caps to the output stage. Something has to be biasing it wrong to pull that much current. Also double check your OPT wiring.
If the LEDs light up, you know the cathode connection is there. You might measure the cathode voltage on power up to see if it reaches the expected bias voltage.
If the LEDs light up, you know the cathode connection is there. You might measure the cathode voltage on power up to see if it reaches the expected bias voltage.
The "bottom" of the CCS's of the driver/splitting stage should be wired to their respective "CCS power" connection. (Which are actually -12 to -13V or something like that).
The + part of the bias supply is connected to "ground". I.e. you should connect your CCS to a negative bias voltage.
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Thanks, I was initially just connecting the '0v at ecc803' to the '0v at ecc803' without grounding it also. At CCS power I was reading -13V but only reading about -0.5v at the cathode of the ecc803.
Ive replaced the resistor and powered up, and this time the dropping resistor in the power supply blew on the same channel. In rush of current again as the LEDs all lit up.
The wiring to the OPT is fine as is the grid connection and coupling cap. There's got to be something going on...
Ive replaced the resistor and powered up, and this time the dropping resistor in the power supply blew on the same channel. In rush of current again as the LEDs all lit up.
The wiring to the OPT is fine as is the grid connection and coupling cap. There's got to be something going on...
. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I respect your knowledge, but I'm telling you for safety sake the fuse needs to be on the hot side, the first thing connected should be the fuse.
If a properly functioning amp draws too much current, then yes a fuse would work on the neutral side.
Try it for your self. Put a fuse on the neutral, then ground the hot, you'll pop your 15A breaker, not your 1 amp fuse.
If a properly functioning amp draws too much current, then yes a fuse would work on the neutral side.
Try it for your self. Put a fuse on the neutral, then ground the hot, you'll pop your 15A breaker, not your 1 amp fuse.
It is an IEC socket with built in fuse.
I guess what I need to know is why the valves would instantly be drawing current. Before, there was about a 5-8 second warm up delay on the LED arrays, but then something changed and a screen resistor popped. And from then on, the LED array lit up straight away on power up.
Cheers
I guess what I need to know is why the valves would instantly be drawing current. Before, there was about a 5-8 second warm up delay on the LED arrays, but then something changed and a screen resistor popped. And from then on, the LED array lit up straight away on power up.
Cheers
Because "Hot" is the one carrying the A/C, not the neutral or ground. You can touch these if you want, not recommended.
Neutral is ground. (At the panel)
The current can exit on either one, the point being a fuse on the neutral will not protect from a short to ground.
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Can you suggest any reasons other than the shorted grids that this might be happening?