Thanks Bud. You answered 3 more of my questions before I could ask them! Now all you need to do is figure out hhow to make a filter that is as non-causal as you. That helps out alot. I was thinking about using either the 7's or the 10's in a FAST system. I was leaning towards the 10's, but perhaps I should think about my typical listening levels.
These ones:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Flipped, with the woofers at the top. These are taperedtransmission lines. Bud has a photo as they are now after he tarted them up (i do too, but don't know what to look for)
dave
My solution to the crossover is to place an RL filter before the amp that drives the Alpair 7's, set to a 6db slope with pole at 80Hz. For the subs I have a pair of MCM plate amps with variable, phase, frequency response that has been modded to 300Hz and amplitude. All type 2 Litz wire cables and Ground Controls liberally splashed about.
So little wrong with the music made that I find myself falling into a dream state from which I awaken entirely refreshed. At my age this becomes important!
Bud
So little wrong with the music made that I find myself falling into a dream state from which I awaken entirely refreshed. At my age this becomes important!
Bud
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AN 12 cast frame
Hi all,
After talking to Bud through email and he asks if I could put my question up here. I've been going through lots of threads that talk about the EnABLing drivers, but there seems not too many mentioned the AN 12 CF, and I couldn't find any pattern purposely designed for the AN12 either. Michael Chua did mention there are some areas really have to taking care of, of which the 2k5, 14k, 1k2 and 5k5 are the most serious.
I wonder if I could use the pattern for AN 8 and make it work directly onto the AN12 ?? Any idea, advice would be appreciated.
Albert
Eh....forgot to mention that I'm going to order the kit from Ed.
Hi all,
After talking to Bud through email and he asks if I could put my question up here. I've been going through lots of threads that talk about the EnABLing drivers, but there seems not too many mentioned the AN 12 CF, and I couldn't find any pattern purposely designed for the AN12 either. Michael Chua did mention there are some areas really have to taking care of, of which the 2k5, 14k, 1k2 and 5k5 are the most serious.
I wonder if I could use the pattern for AN 8 and make it work directly onto the AN12 ?? Any idea, advice would be appreciated.
Albert
Eh....forgot to mention that I'm going to order the kit from Ed.
The AN 8 patterns will show you where on the AN 12 to concentrate, using them directly would be a mistake. We are now deeply into correcting specific emission irregularities. Until more data, meaning more drivers, have been corrected we must do this in an imprirical fashion. Called the "tap test" for soon to be obvious reasons.
When you recieve Ed's kit, you will have one of the most useful tools possible for this activity, the pen tip holder, the long black wooden one. If you grasp it lightly between fingers and thumb, on the large diameter end, you can use the tip to lightly tap the cone surface in a radial direction. On the AN drivers this should be done on the main cone from just under the area covered by the whizzer cone, out to the surround. Set the driver on a sturdy surface directly in front of you and at about a 30 degree angle from vertical to your eyes. Take the black wand and tap very lightly up the cone surface. You will notice that the character of the tap changes across this distance. There are three sounds to listen for.
One will be an obvious change in tone. Ignore this for now.
Another will be a change in the direction of the decay. This is important and quite subtle. You must learn to listen not to the "tick" but to which direction it seems to decay toward, the voice coil or the surround.
As you get near the surround you shouyld hear a third characteristic. In this one the initial "tick" seems to disappear completely and rather abruptly. Somewhat closer to the surround it will reappear, again abruptly.
You need to spend some time finding these points on the cone surface, they are where you will center a ring set. This means that a ring guide set must be made to fit just inside of the lower half of the ring set. Do look at the pics of the AN 8 here https://picasaweb.google.com/hpurvine/AudioNirvanaSuper8# to see how this works out in practice.
I use a set of dividers from an archaic drawing set and some inexpensive digital calipers to measure the diameter of these centers and use a couple of computer programs to allow me to generater the rings for guidance. You can use the AN 8 ring guides by increasing or decreasing their size by % in printing from the PDF files. To determine the amount of % to change them, you must be able to measure accurately, or waste a good portion of a trees output and considerable ink getting the size correct. As you can see in the pics, the outer pattern of the guide needs to be just a bit smaller than the bottom of the ring you will apply to the cone. As in horse shoes and sex, close is good enough.
Until you get your kit just sit tight. When you do get the kit you can provide me with center diameter points and I can provide custom guides for you and everyone else intersted. If you can provide % that work out, I can also do this.
Bud
When you recieve Ed's kit, you will have one of the most useful tools possible for this activity, the pen tip holder, the long black wooden one. If you grasp it lightly between fingers and thumb, on the large diameter end, you can use the tip to lightly tap the cone surface in a radial direction. On the AN drivers this should be done on the main cone from just under the area covered by the whizzer cone, out to the surround. Set the driver on a sturdy surface directly in front of you and at about a 30 degree angle from vertical to your eyes. Take the black wand and tap very lightly up the cone surface. You will notice that the character of the tap changes across this distance. There are three sounds to listen for.
One will be an obvious change in tone. Ignore this for now.
Another will be a change in the direction of the decay. This is important and quite subtle. You must learn to listen not to the "tick" but to which direction it seems to decay toward, the voice coil or the surround.
As you get near the surround you shouyld hear a third characteristic. In this one the initial "tick" seems to disappear completely and rather abruptly. Somewhat closer to the surround it will reappear, again abruptly.
You need to spend some time finding these points on the cone surface, they are where you will center a ring set. This means that a ring guide set must be made to fit just inside of the lower half of the ring set. Do look at the pics of the AN 8 here https://picasaweb.google.com/hpurvine/AudioNirvanaSuper8# to see how this works out in practice.
I use a set of dividers from an archaic drawing set and some inexpensive digital calipers to measure the diameter of these centers and use a couple of computer programs to allow me to generater the rings for guidance. You can use the AN 8 ring guides by increasing or decreasing their size by % in printing from the PDF files. To determine the amount of % to change them, you must be able to measure accurately, or waste a good portion of a trees output and considerable ink getting the size correct. As you can see in the pics, the outer pattern of the guide needs to be just a bit smaller than the bottom of the ring you will apply to the cone. As in horse shoes and sex, close is good enough.
Until you get your kit just sit tight. When you do get the kit you can provide me with center diameter points and I can provide custom guides for you and everyone else intersted. If you can provide % that work out, I can also do this.
Bud
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Ed, you might want to point your correspondent to this AN 12 set of posts.
I have zero experiance with coral drivers. I can reccomend EnABL 1.0, where you place a generic ring set at the beginning of the cone, at the voice coil with a third inner ring up on the center dome and a full ring set out at the surround edge. This will provide about 60% of the benefit in clarity that EnABL 2.0, what we are covering with the AN 12 series, will provide. If you can get the Coral individual to post a centerline photo here I can make a photoshop addition that will show where the 1.0 patterns should be placed.
Bud
I have zero experiance with coral drivers. I can reccomend EnABL 1.0, where you place a generic ring set at the beginning of the cone, at the voice coil with a third inner ring up on the center dome and a full ring set out at the surround edge. This will provide about 60% of the benefit in clarity that EnABL 2.0, what we are covering with the AN 12 series, will provide. If you can get the Coral individual to post a centerline photo here I can make a photoshop addition that will show where the 1.0 patterns should be placed.
Bud
This is available at any Michael's craft store, there are 4 stores in the greater Vancouver area.
dave
Attachments
Bud,
Thanks.
Do I simply ask for ' 2 way zig glue ' at the shop, or there is a name for it.
Albert
G'day Albert,
Do not despair. The pen tip holder is the right tool for the tap test.
I have tried other implements but have not found anything that works better.
For me it took 2 hours late one night in a silent house 'learning' to hear the sounds Bud describes in the tap test.
When you learn what to listen for you will be amazed at what you will discover.
Cheers,
Alex
After reading the whole thread & repeat reading page 1-7. I come up with the following. Please do advise if there is anything I misunderstood.
1). Mix ‘ Microscale MI-4 Gloss coat ‘ 50/50 % with distilled water. Apply the first coat in radial fashion – from voice coil to surround and one coat for the whizzer cone. Let dry 48 hours and listen for some time, then apply the second coat in circular fashion to the voice cone only. Again let dry 24 hours, listen for a day to judge.
2). Clear flat finish ( SKu4636 ) for the pattern, do I have to mix with water and in what %. Is there any way I could put some color to my taste, for I thought the white is a bit too exotic to the black cone.
3). The 2 way ZIG glue, I understand I should I put that at the back of the voice coil and on the surround, but don’t know exactly where. A picture showing exact location will be great.
4). Do I have to apply one more ( third coat ) 50/50 gloss coat after pattern finished ??
Regards
Albert
1). Mix ‘ Microscale MI-4 Gloss coat ‘ 50/50 % with distilled water. Apply the first coat in radial fashion – from voice coil to surround and one coat for the whizzer cone. Let dry 48 hours and listen for some time, then apply the second coat in circular fashion to the voice cone only. Again let dry 24 hours, listen for a day to judge.
2). Clear flat finish ( SKu4636 ) for the pattern, do I have to mix with water and in what %. Is there any way I could put some color to my taste, for I thought the white is a bit too exotic to the black cone.
3). The 2 way ZIG glue, I understand I should I put that at the back of the voice coil and on the surround, but don’t know exactly where. A picture showing exact location will be great.
4). Do I have to apply one more ( third coat ) 50/50 gloss coat after pattern finished ??
Regards
Albert