If you have problems like LED orientation I recommend reading this: http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/docs/community_docs/leonvb-Building_your_first_module_V1.1.pdf
Jumpers are simply bridges, so yes: 0 ohm resistors will do. If you don't have enough wire will work fine too. I would recommend reading the integration guide before starting to work on the modules.
Jumpers are simply bridges, so yes: 0 ohm resistors will do. If you don't have enough wire will work fine too. I would recommend reading the integration guide before starting to work on the modules.
I'll read Integration guide today. I was watching only mounting and connecting sections.
Sorry, I meant smd resistors which are included in BIII kit. I supposed they were included as jumpers.
What is an exceptable input voltage range for Placid to output VDC5.25 or can you tell me the output voltage of 15VA 9+9VAC transformer without any load?
Thanks and regards.
I meant input VAC to Placid. Transformer shall have its designed VAC output, considering standard 120 or 230VAC mains.
You suggest to use 9+9VAC transformer for PlacidHD. Will Placid work as desired with 10 or 8VAC secondary of the transformer?
I have a transformer, but don't know its exact specification. I can only measure secondary by DMM. So I would like to know the secondary voltage required for PlacidHD. I don't know if transformer you suggest to use with Placid shows 9+9VAC on DMM without load.
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Ok, that makes sense. Anything 7-12V should be fine, as long as it can meet the current demand of your load. More voltage will result in more heat.
Heat
Both my Placid and then an LCDPS were getting too hot using the stock 9v transformer. I just ordered new heatsinks and an 8v transformer to help. I had already used larger (2") heat sinks on the LCDPS. I have 2.5" coming, but I expect the lower voltage to help the most. If you are over 9v AC, I'd plan on reworking the heatsinking. At least bolt it on the board instead of soldering it as it will be easier to remove later...
Both my Placid and then an LCDPS were getting too hot using the stock 9v transformer. I just ordered new heatsinks and an 8v transformer to help. I had already used larger (2") heat sinks on the LCDPS. I have 2.5" coming, but I expect the lower voltage to help the most. If you are over 9v AC, I'd plan on reworking the heatsinking. At least bolt it on the board instead of soldering it as it will be easier to remove later...
Define "too hot."
I have been running a B-III on a testbed from a LCDPS (1" hs) continuously for > 2 months without issues.
The Placid is a shunt regulator, and is designed to run hot.
Preparing the board for stereo operation
Reading the BIII DAC Integration Guide Revision 1.0.2 chapter "Preparing the board for stereo operation" I have a doubt when Leon wrote "place the jumpers J1-J12 (J1-J12, 6-17) at the underside of the board" isn't clear: I have to place all 12 jumper J1 to J12 so 12 jumpers in total? I don't understand "6-17"?
Reading the BIII DAC Integration Guide Revision 1.0.2 chapter "Preparing the board for stereo operation" I have a doubt when Leon wrote "place the jumpers J1-J12 (J1-J12, 6-17) at the underside of the board" isn't clear: I have to place all 12 jumper J1 to J12 so 12 jumpers in total? I don't understand "6-17"?
Define "too hot".
I switched to an LCDPS because I thought it might run cooler, the opposite was the case- and that is with the bigger heat sink. I'd have to buy a thermometer too be sure, but it is hot enough where I would fear early failure. I am fairly tolerant to heat, but I can only hold a finger on it for a few seconds. It makes my Pass Alephs seem cool in comparison.
2 months without issues? Is that 24/7 in a (vented) chassis or open on a bread board possibly... Besides, transistor failure is related to junction heat. Just because it has worked for two months, does not mean that it will not fail prematurely.
I switched to an LCDPS because I thought it might run cooler, the opposite was the case- and that is with the bigger heat sink. I'd have to buy a thermometer too be sure, but it is hot enough where I would fear early failure. I am fairly tolerant to heat, but I can only hold a finger on it for a few seconds. It makes my Pass Alephs seem cool in comparison.
2 months without issues? Is that 24/7 in a (vented) chassis or open on a bread board possibly... Besides, transistor failure is related to junction heat. Just because it has worked for two months, does not mean that it will not fail prematurely.
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"6-17" refer to the callouts in the board diagram. Click on the "J1-J12" link in the text and it display the board diagram showing the jumper locations.
It was explained at page 7: "In the text the reference (<part>, <number>) will be used, where <part> is the marking on the board, and <number> means the number of the part as found in the lay-out. In general, the reference will also act as a hyperlink which leads back to either the top or bottom lay-out, depending on location of the part.".
That's strange, because I'm using the BII with Tridents which uses even more power than the BIII, and I'm also powering a few things like the Mux and Toslink receiver. Yet I don't think my Placid (non-HD) gets that hot. Are you sure you've tuned it for the correct amount of current? And have you wired the transformer correctly for your voltage range?
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