I really need some solid info on this dark art. I have not been able to get consistent results. Magazine paper had yielded the best results, but still can't get it right. Any specific info would be helpful. I have seen so many successful examples using magazine paper and an iron but can't get it to work.
I am using the Xerox laser printer at Office Max and putting it on high qaulity magazine paper like Architectural Digest. Some work great, some do poorly. I didn't know if there was an ideal heat setting on the iron. I know a lot of people use lamination machines, but i don't want to buy one. I know it can be done because guys are doing extremely complex layouts with no speckling or unevenness or partial traces.
A better resist than PNP exists
Buzz--
You might consider stepping up to a serious quality etching photomask. The iron-on PNP blue is very touchy. It requires constant heat, but not too much. You have to adjust the iron to the size of the board, keep it moving, etc. Even with a laminator, it may not come out right.
I have done very high-resolution etching of logos for jewelry for years using Puretch Photopolymer for PCBs. It is a flexible sheet that is easy to apply, sticks well with no heat (just water and suction), and exposes evenly with a nail-drying light or similar. You work with it under a bug (yellow or darkroom) light, and develop it in soda ash. If you try it, you will abandon PNP forever.
The one caveat on all resists is the metallic (in this case, copper) surface must be absolutely clean. You need to scrub with Barkeeper's Friend and/or pumice, then wipe with alcohol. If you pick up tarnish with a paper towel, it's not clean. The resist needs to be applied within hours of cleaning the board.
Buzz--
You might consider stepping up to a serious quality etching photomask. The iron-on PNP blue is very touchy. It requires constant heat, but not too much. You have to adjust the iron to the size of the board, keep it moving, etc. Even with a laminator, it may not come out right.
I have done very high-resolution etching of logos for jewelry for years using Puretch Photopolymer for PCBs. It is a flexible sheet that is easy to apply, sticks well with no heat (just water and suction), and exposes evenly with a nail-drying light or similar. You work with it under a bug (yellow or darkroom) light, and develop it in soda ash. If you try it, you will abandon PNP forever.
The one caveat on all resists is the metallic (in this case, copper) surface must be absolutely clean. You need to scrub with Barkeeper's Friend and/or pumice, then wipe with alcohol. If you pick up tarnish with a paper towel, it's not clean. The resist needs to be applied within hours of cleaning the board.
Check out my blog on the subject:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blogs/nycone/
I use Staples item 633215. It flawless for single sided PCBs and very good for two sided.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blogs/nycone/
I use Staples item 633215. It flawless for single sided PCBs and very good for two sided.
Yup, couldn't agree more, though I use 0000 wire wool then a wipe with acetone. As for the toner resist, it very much depends on your printer. I've had good results with HP and Xerox, less good results with Epson, IBM and Lexmark.
Been with Press and Peel and a riducouluss amount of different paper with the laser printer toner and Iron then decided to spend £50 on a couple of piecess of glass a mirror and UV tubes to build my own light box, I already had the wood and duck tape .
Photosensitive PCB IMO is the way to go
Photosensitive PCB IMO is the way to go
Dido on the #0000 steel wool. I scrub my boards with water and dish detergent. Works great and no need for acetone (I hate that stuff anyway).
Im lazy and dont like buying extra stuff so....
I use the simple copy and iron system. I lay out the artwork on a piece of paper and went to the local kinko copy store. I paid $0.30 for a semi gloss copy. Transfer done with the old family iron and did etching with muriatic acid and peroxide. 2:1 peroxide to acid.
My reason for doing this type of this system is that all the stuff is at a local store.
kinko's for the semi gloss print, radio shack for copper pcb, lowes for the acid, and dollar store for the peroxide.
I have a fish pump and a tube that has some slits cut into it to produce bubbles to aid in etching.
Hope this helps
Steve
I use the simple copy and iron system. I lay out the artwork on a piece of paper and went to the local kinko copy store. I paid $0.30 for a semi gloss copy. Transfer done with the old family iron and did etching with muriatic acid and peroxide. 2:1 peroxide to acid.
My reason for doing this type of this system is that all the stuff is at a local store.
kinko's for the semi gloss print, radio shack for copper pcb, lowes for the acid, and dollar store for the peroxide.
I have a fish pump and a tube that has some slits cut into it to produce bubbles to aid in etching.
Hope this helps
Steve
Forget the staples paper, I threw close to 100 sheets of it in the trash after buying the presentation paper.
I can send you some if you want to try it before spending $15 on a whole pack. If you send me your layout, I will even print some out for you. If the prints I make don't work, then you know some other part of your process is to blame.
I can send you some if you want to try it before spending $15 on a whole pack. If you send me your layout, I will even print some out for you. If the prints I make don't work, then you know some other part of your process is to blame.
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