I completely agree with at least keeping the option of volume control. You would be limiting your Market to only devices that can do digital volume. Many will want a high quality, simple 2.1 stereo solution for playing their music from cd player...
I also personally think the cross over point should be lowered. 80hz won't appeal to those with larger main speakers who want to integrate a sub. 320hz is way too high and would mean the sub is far too easily located.
Just my thoughts...
I also personally think the cross over point should be lowered. 80hz won't appeal to those with larger main speakers who want to integrate a sub. 320hz is way too high and would mean the sub is far too easily located.
Just my thoughts...
Personally I think it is fine without LEDs if it makes it more complicated. I am happy without any volume indicator as long as the volume resets to the minimum on power turn on. On the other hand, option for remote control would be nice... either as a different board and connect it in later or even if built on board if it is not too complicated.
I agree with the other comment that 80Hz bypass might be a bit high, there might be those with speakers which can go down to 50Hz (many bookshelfs).
Oon
Some afterthoughts on your proposal for your system.
I personally think that 2.1 with a powered sub will be quite useless because most people already have powered subs. You pretty much have to DIY if you wanted a non powered sub. DIY subs are messy business, big box, need heavy bracing, thick wood etc... I think a 2.2 line level analog out would be better. The output we could then feed into a sub or use one of your higher powered module (TA3020?). Alternatively it could be a SPDIF coax out which we can then use on one of your DAC with TA3020 modules or a external powered sub.
Of course these are my personal thoughts, other people might differ on that...
My
Oon
I personally think that 2.1 with a powered sub will be quite useless because most people already have powered subs. You pretty much have to DIY if you wanted a non powered sub. DIY subs are messy business, big box, need heavy bracing, thick wood etc... I think a 2.2 line level analog out would be better. The output we could then feed into a sub or use one of your higher powered module (TA3020?). Alternatively it could be a SPDIF coax out which we can then use on one of your DAC with TA3020 modules or a external powered sub.
Of course these are my personal thoughts, other people might differ on that...
My
Oon
I am personally very happy with where this is going. I agree that a volume control is a necessity I also agree that I really don't need an indicator if it makes it more difficult. About the power output of the chipset. Will the two main channels (80x 8ohm) be capable of handling 6ohm load or would it stress them too much?
I agree that LEDs indicating the volume are superfluous - once the board is installed in a case, people won't be able to see them anyway.
But it's critical for the volume knob to have minimum/maximum stops, so you can feel whether you've turned it all the way up or down. Steps for each increment would also be nice.
And I respectfully disagree about resetting the volume each time the unit powers on - the volume should remain at whatever level the knob is set.
But it's critical for the volume knob to have minimum/maximum stops, so you can feel whether you've turned it all the way up or down. Steps for each increment would also be nice.
And I respectfully disagree about resetting the volume each time the unit powers on - the volume should remain at whatever level the knob is set.
Moved to Vendor's Bazaar. This is a thread about a commercial product, not a DIY project.You mentioned you're using the STA508 chip now - I'm assuming that means the power requirements will be closer to the T1 (i.e., 22V-31V DC/16V-22V AC) than the T4?
This is a great Ideal! I think 2.1 channel systems are a very nice configuration. Parting from the model of traditional stereo speakers I also recognize that the sub-woofer in these designs might utilize a much higher crossover frequency, even as high as 320Hz, nice thinking!!! I think the full digital model with all bells and whistles would have a very fine and sophisticated quality; a real stand-alone, techno, masterpiece!
I unfortunately have no device that outputs to digital audio.
Would it make sense to produce a cheaper model that would be analog, and with two volume pots, i.e. one for 2x80w @ 8ohms, and one for 1x 100w @ 4ohms respectively, with no crossovers? I am imagining more of a skeleton amp for 2.1 channel DIY, that provides power and independent gain. Actually as many as three volume pots, for Master volume, and high and low channels wold be ideal for a 2.1 channel amp.
Alternatively an amp with no volume control like the sure 4 x 100 watt board would be enough. I would use this board for my project except it only produces 40 watts @ 8 ohms.
I think that the full digital model would also need independent gain settings for high and low channels. I don't think that the full digital model would need volume knobs. The digital interface would be enough if this unit would remember the volume settings for high and low gain after shutdown and startup. Then volume could be controlled from the digital source.
Cheers, and good luck,
Marc
I unfortunately have no device that outputs to digital audio.
Would it make sense to produce a cheaper model that would be analog, and with two volume pots, i.e. one for 2x80w @ 8ohms, and one for 1x 100w @ 4ohms respectively, with no crossovers? I am imagining more of a skeleton amp for 2.1 channel DIY, that provides power and independent gain. Actually as many as three volume pots, for Master volume, and high and low channels wold be ideal for a 2.1 channel amp.
Alternatively an amp with no volume control like the sure 4 x 100 watt board would be enough. I would use this board for my project except it only produces 40 watts @ 8 ohms.
I think that the full digital model would also need independent gain settings for high and low channels. I don't think that the full digital model would need volume knobs. The digital interface would be enough if this unit would remember the volume settings for high and low gain after shutdown and startup. Then volume could be controlled from the digital source.
Cheers, and good luck,
Marc
Hi all !
I am a big fan off the TK2050 and all hifimediy product (i have five T2), i come from the french forum "HomeCinema-FR" (like Alkasar).
I follow this subject and i have a proposition to hifimediy, why it doesnt make a full 3 way active crossovers/multiamplificator with the DDX technologie rather than a 2.1 ?
I am a big fan off the TK2050 and all hifimediy product (i have five T2), i come from the french forum "HomeCinema-FR" (like Alkasar).
I follow this subject and i have a proposition to hifimediy, why it doesnt make a full 3 way active crossovers/multiamplificator with the DDX technologie rather than a 2.1 ?
the first version, we will use sta508 so the voltage range will be similar to T1.
We will go 2.1 first. One I2S signal bus only carry 2 way signal, so the 3rd way will be mixed from the other.
Interesting - what do the LEDs mean? The socket in back could be a tight fit for a small case, but then you could probably solder the wires directly. Or is the panel optional?
My guess is that the leds mean, from low to high;
green 1 = signal present,
green 2 = signal at -36dB
yellow 1 = signal at -18 or -12dB
yellow 2 = signal at -6dB
red = signal clipped, ie over 0dB
It's the sort of thing you'd use with a level control...
I have level control on my digital source, so this does not really interest me so much, but a high quality digital power amplifier with digital input (ie does PCM to PWM conversion), is very interesting.
If there's DSP capability on the board you could always do xover filters with it, but personally I would find digital room correction more useful, although most people are not aware of the benefits, if it was easy to use it's one if the best enhancements to almost any syatem.
I know that, but if I have 3 or 4 I²S signal pre-filtered (for example with this multichannel I2S board), how I can connect the different Tripath board in PWM mode ?
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