Your new case just isnt a case. It is crap. These D-Link cases are not made for 230V. Even if you have closed all the gaps what is not visible on the photo. It is clearly visible that you were not even able to close the unit correctly. There is no need at all to open the PS. So why do it? And your whole diy-amp isnt good looking at all.
You can do with your unit what you want.
But it is neccessary to warn others not to follow you.
Please, diy-amp-builders, take not into consideration such kind of builds!
If you have once survived a 230V attack that does not mean that it will go out well for the second time or that any other will survive it.
You should try not to use your guarding angels to help you to survive unless you really need them!
You can do with your unit what you want.
But it is neccessary to warn others not to follow you.
Please, diy-amp-builders, take not into consideration such kind of builds!
If you have once survived a 230V attack that does not mean that it will go out well for the second time or that any other will survive it.
You should try not to use your guarding angels to help you to survive unless you really need them!
I will take it outboards, but really the PS case is no better quality than the new one (I know two wrongs don't make it right). I took it out to fit it in. Btw. in Denmark you simply don't die from a 230 V attack. It's not recommended and it's painfull for a split second, but you don't die.
I have seen many builds here on DIYaudio in cases that are not made for 230 Volt. Is it the material it self, or the thickness stability or what makes a case 230 volt ready?
I have seen many builds here on DIYaudio in cases that are not made for 230 Volt. Is it the material it self, or the thickness stability or what makes a case 230 volt ready?
Agree, but I didn't have any second thoughts using one plastic case instead of another. But I would never use a wooden box for an amplifier. I have something against wood and amplifiers (electronics in general). Even passive cross overs I would never mount directly on wood. Electronics kan get very hot if they malfunction, and wood burns so easy. If a class d amp begins to oscilliate it get very hot.
It's not because I know wood is bad and plastic is better, it's simply a feeling, and actually that not ok.
Maybe there should be a sticky of "does and donts" when building a class d amplifier - maybe in different categories like diff PSU types (SMPS and linear) and different power classes (below 20 watts - 20 to 100 watts and above 100 watts ore something like that)
[QUOTEMaybe there should be a sticky of "does and donts" when building a class d amplifier - maybe in different categories like diff PSU types (SMPS and linear) and different power classes (below 20 watts - 20 to 100 watts and above 100 watts ore something like that) ][/QUOTE]
Would be a good idea!
There are different problematic pictures here in this thread.
Some amps are really pressed together with absolutely no space.
Other have switching power supplys with open unisolated lamp cords. These PSU were thought to be build into an additonal casing.
Some cases have up to 80V for the amp. This is dangerous, too. Danger begins at about 18V. You might operate a 12V amp without any safety concerns. But over 18V you need a good isolation.
Just never disassemble a PSU. Thats all. If you really need to integrate the PSU into the amp housing, get you a bigger case and integrate both the PSU including the unopened PSU case. For this you will need to buy a bigger case.
Would be a good idea!
There are different problematic pictures here in this thread.
Some amps are really pressed together with absolutely no space.
Other have switching power supplys with open unisolated lamp cords. These PSU were thought to be build into an additonal casing.
Some cases have up to 80V for the amp. This is dangerous, too. Danger begins at about 18V. You might operate a 12V amp without any safety concerns. But over 18V you need a good isolation.
Just never disassemble a PSU. Thats all. If you really need to integrate the PSU into the amp housing, get you a bigger case and integrate both the PSU including the unopened PSU case. For this you will need to buy a bigger case.
Class d can be a minefiled for the inexperienced.
Decoupling and layout are very important.
Gave one of my amps to a guy.
He rang up next day and said it didnt work just clicked through the speaker. I knew it worked coz I had been listening to it for hours before I sent it out.
Turned out he had removed the output transistors and put them on a heatsink with 4 inch wires to them !
Of course as soon as he put them back on the pcb it burst into life.
Yeah, Nigel, you are totally right.
But there are two kinds of issues:
- The game and toy issue you mention which applies on the unit not running. Can be repaired.
- The death issue dealing with high voltages. Cannot be repaired. Even more dangerous are tube amps. There exist units with a tube voltage of 1500V.
But there are two kinds of issues:
- The game and toy issue you mention which applies on the unit not running. Can be repaired.
- The death issue dealing with high voltages. Cannot be repaired. Even more dangerous are tube amps. There exist units with a tube voltage of 1500V.
100% agree! I have got the same amp from Arien Helder.
Nothing. No documentation at all.
Other sellers are the same or even worse.
Look here:
Hifimediy|Power supplies
It seems that these PSU are ready to use. Just plug in a lamp cable and ready you go. Many thousands of those PSU have been sold by various dealers.
But they are totally life dangerous. The PSU is meant to be integrated into a bigger housing together with the unit it supplies. It may not be operated without this additional case. The lamp cable clamp is hardly protected against touching. There are models with no protection at all. On this forum there are photos seeing such units in operation.
One unattended or drunk moment or a child touching the unit and it will start playing funeral music.
You believe, you are secured bying completly assembled amps? No you are not. Look at those ready-to-play d-amps you find on ebay. Ignoring all security regulations they have no ground wire or the 230V connection is only 1mm away from electronic parts.
For example look at TP60 Tripath T Amp TA2022 2 * 80 Watt Stereo Verstärker | eBay
If the auction is gone, just search for TP60 on ebay.
At the back left you see the missing earth wire.
At the front left little board the 230V cable is solderd millimeters away from the toroids.
Moving the cable a bit or breaking it off will put 230V to the housing of the unit. This is anno 1880 technology knowledge which is ignored here.
Nothing. No documentation at all.
Other sellers are the same or even worse.
Look here:
Hifimediy|Power supplies
It seems that these PSU are ready to use. Just plug in a lamp cable and ready you go. Many thousands of those PSU have been sold by various dealers.
But they are totally life dangerous. The PSU is meant to be integrated into a bigger housing together with the unit it supplies. It may not be operated without this additional case. The lamp cable clamp is hardly protected against touching. There are models with no protection at all. On this forum there are photos seeing such units in operation.
One unattended or drunk moment or a child touching the unit and it will start playing funeral music.
You believe, you are secured bying completly assembled amps? No you are not. Look at those ready-to-play d-amps you find on ebay. Ignoring all security regulations they have no ground wire or the 230V connection is only 1mm away from electronic parts.
For example look at TP60 Tripath T Amp TA2022 2 * 80 Watt Stereo Verstärker | eBay
If the auction is gone, just search for TP60 on ebay.
At the back left you see the missing earth wire.
At the front left little board the 230V cable is solderd millimeters away from the toroids.
Moving the cable a bit or breaking it off will put 230V to the housing of the unit. This is anno 1880 technology knowledge which is ignored here.
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Hifimediy T2 with cheap 3A 24V SMPS (brand: JAH)
decoupled with 2200 pF C0G + 10uF Tantalum + 20uF MKP and a Ferrite Bead.
Things on right are mediaplayer, DAC and couple of tomatoes.
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It kills plenty of people in Australia. It tied to attach a Electrical authority document that shows 20 people died playing with there house wiring in one year, but the file was too large, you'll just have to believe me.
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My previous Arjen Helder TA2020 amp. Different power supply. Different tomatoes.
Good to see you approve. But the smps is still made with exposed wire as I see it. I have consultet my brother, who have more than 10 years experience in electronic design for the industry. He have a bachelor degree in electronic engineering. He claims my amplifier have no security issues. I don't know your background, but I do trust my brother. I acknowledge that the case is weak, and I will replace that part. He also confirms that in Denmark you don't get killed by 230 volt from you home plug. Only people with a weak hart is in the danger zone.
I think you remarks have been good, because a guy like me should take more care, and not just trust my own assumptions.
This is the amp:
http://s3.postimage.org/s2niymyvt/pics_2008_2009_162.jpg
You are wrong. There exist no SMPS at all inside this amp. It is driven by a torroid. All wires are totally isolated. Ground wire is connected. The blue board is not a SMPS. It just carries a rectifier and some caps all working at the same voltage than the amp board.
http://www.connexelectronic.com/documents/SMPS500R.pdf
Please read this safety-warning carefully and please do not tell us no more that 230V is not dangerous.
DIY means fun. DIY does not mean funeral. OK?
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Ok. The new build didn't show a picture, so I could only see the one with smps.
Please read what I wrote. I didn't say 230 volt is not dangerous, I clearly wrote that you should take care when dealing with 230 volt, but saying it will kill you is not true. If it was, I would not dare to even replace a light bulb. If you keep on coming with these "it will kill you" warnings - no one will believe you. Just tell the truth, and that is handle 230 volt with care. The electric shock can make you fall of a ladder or might kill you if you are not in a normal healthy shape. Don't scare people, that have never been good tactics, when warning against something.
Please read what I wrote. I didn't say 230 volt is not dangerous, I clearly wrote that you should take care when dealing with 230 volt, but saying it will kill you is not true. If it was, I would not dare to even replace a light bulb. If you keep on coming with these "it will kill you" warnings - no one will believe you. Just tell the truth, and that is handle 230 volt with care. The electric shock can make you fall of a ladder or might kill you if you are not in a normal healthy shape. Don't scare people, that have never been good tactics, when warning against something.