Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

BTW, This is how 5V separate regulator can be connected:
I'm quite convinced that removing the heatsink would be ok as long as adequate airflow is provided... That chip is running barely over room temp in my test setup, where it is exposed to fresh air. In fact, the CD board was lying on a piece of foam a while ago (so that I inadvertently insulated the heatsink with the foam) - and while the chip did get quite warm, it was still far from overheating. Could it be just my particular chip?...
 
tube300 - voltage across C906 measures at 21mV in my Shiga (with the original cap) - hope this helps.

What changes to the sound made the Audio Note cap?

Thanks!
Yes i measure here 22 mV so it must be fine
does any one now what the function of this cap is?

This is indeed a very sensitive part on the board.
i try here no so much, a Black gate the original and lower the value to 47 uF
and the today the 0,1 AN copperfoil .
I did all the test's in a quick way i dont give it much time and it all sound different.
But i like the copper foil realy! it is hard to describe it is more open fluid and airy without changing the tonal colour of the original cap.
I let it play for a while.
 
For anyone thinking of playing wiht C906 - its a good idea to install 2 pins from an old DIP socket - the leads of whatever cap can just be inserted in without having to solder etc.


For a long time I've thought about using a Salas shunt to power the shiga, but never got around to it. Now might be the time........ well shortly anyway!!

Anyone here do it?

Fran
 
As per Peter's recent photo of which track to cut, I've applied a seperate 5V regulator (ALW) and can report benefits in the form of a lower noise floor/more detail/seperation and better clarity acroiss the frequency spectrum.

I'll be trying a 300VA transformer, low resistance inductors on links, the SPDIF attenuator and tantalum caps for decoupling.

The magical C906 cap seems to be on a line labelled VREF.

C918 and C930 appear to be used in some sort of decoupling role on the line. Anyone tried playing with these caps?
 
Hi Uncle leon,
My chip (ic903) always got warm like almost too warm,I am guessing at the iron filing causing it to fail,I checked all around it and all components read ok,I could'nt get that ic in a smt but a dip,so could you measure the temp on yours for me maybe it won't need a sink for the dip,and yes I have a salas on stand by 2 of them,but got to get it up and working again then I'll do Peters power fix and see what goes,LOL.
Take it EZ....
 
Hi Dr H.
Would you list what you do to it and what values you use for the tants,I have done most of the previous mods,still out on some caps people are trying esp 906,Peter went through a bunch of this in the earlier threads and went back to some of the stock items. I have made most those changes with good success but it seems sometimes the field is getting wider as opposed to narrowing down to a couple of ways, which is I guess,is good for us we get different perspectives don't we?
Keeping the iron hot,
cheers
 
Hi nosmoking, I've done the following:

300/100R spdif mod
1. Mains filter
2. Removed choke, C916 and C952 and bypass caps
3. C916 replaced by a OSCON 47uF, 25V cap
4. 300/100 on digital output to 75R BNC connector
5. LM317 based 8V supply with around 2200uF pre and post regulator filtration
6. It is "naked" and sits on a bit of bubble wrap at the moment. No fancy mech isolation etc.
7. Supply 5V off ALW reg

I want to try:
SPDIF attenuator
300VA transformer
Snubbers on power supply diodes
Low resistance Inductors to replace wire links
Tantalum caps to replace some electrolytics (those for PS decoupling)
Possibly a second ALW reg dedicated to one of the chips
 
Apologies if this has been asked before, but does anyone know the current draw of the Shigaclone mechanism? I've just received my 8V Teddy-Reg and need to know whether it will need heatsinking or not (I'm hoping it doesn't as I really don't want to take it all apart to drill into the copper base of the chassis that Peter built for me).

Thanks,

- John
 
hello there.
I have somewhere forgotten 2 ez-31 bought them at the end of 2009 for building a shigaclone.
I left them since i was busy with other things and now i am back.
I start reading but i was lost !!!!!!!!1 huge amount of info.
Is there a place with the valid most recent decent mods to start?
Something with gathered info lets say.

thanx
Nick
 
Apologies if this has been asked before, but does anyone know the current draw of the Shigaclone mechanism? I've just received my 8V Teddy-Reg and need to know whether it will need heatsinking or not (I'm hoping it doesn't as I really don't want to take it all apart to drill into the copper base of the chassis that Peter built for me).

Thanks,

- John

John, go to post #1517. get a small heatsink if u do not mount onto chassis.