I've switched to using a laminator and can't imagine ever having to use an iron again. Back when I did it with an iron, smearing happened a lot on the small boards I do and it really used to p*** me off.
qusp,
I use kapton tape to hold the transfer in place when it goes through the laminator for the first pass.
I'm talkin' 'bout HP paper - funk Staples paper!!
I bought the HP paper at Staples (the store). Capiche?
huh, I understand in words, but the pictures you seemed to be referring to seemed to have a staples wrapper. I think i'll just rely on NYCone to grab the right stuff, seems either one of these 2 you guys are referring to is good and this will be my first boards so I doubt i'll notice the difference at first till I take on more ambitious designs. though I do like the idea of getting good resolution on anodized al for panels. anyone done any transfers onto wood?
theAnonymous1 said:
thanks mate, sounds like a plan, will this work with 2 sided boards too? I dont see why not, I suppose it could be done 1 side at a time if there was no other choice; I will be initially using the second side predominantly for ground plane. I read that I can get a reasonable/suitable and cheap laminator at BigW here in OZ for about 60AUD at the moment and for the time saved it sounds as if it will pay for itself in a day
No, I wasn't referring to the Staples brand paper when I said "this puts the Staples paper to shame". Fact is, the other Staples paper recommended by NYCone is probably fine, but given the facts of the creation of this thread in the first place, I can't count on it being the same product tomorrow.
The paper I have now and am HIGHLY recommending is the HP presentation paper for laser printers shown HERE.
I can only recommend the one I use since I haven't tried any others. It's far from reasonably priced though.....
GBC HeatSeal H425 Laminator by Office Depot
I pulled mine out of the trash at work. It had a blown fuse (soldered in circuit) that cost me $1 to replace.
The company that supposedly created the toner transfer method recommends the GBC H220.
yeah that was what threw me initially as thats how it read, but as of your last post it was clear (well maybe before that but I have a broken head at the moment ha) given that anyone who gets it for me (actually organized) would probably be picking up the staples paper at staples, I might get him to grab some of the HP paper too. however are we sure that the particular HP paper is an in stock item, or is it nolonger made and being phased out? see I told you I had a broken head. I guess I will just grab more than I need of the recommended stuff now and worry about that later
half your luck on the laminator theAnonymous1! there sure is some advantages to being able to fix things that may seem too much trouble to others, but done in a jiffy if you know where to look.
half your luck on the laminator theAnonymous1! there sure is some advantages to being able to fix things that may seem too much trouble to others, but done in a jiffy if you know where to look.
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Anything is possible, but I did buy the paper yesterday, at a Staples store.
It has 250 sheets and is $17.00 - doing the math puts it a quantum leap ahead of the Staples paper.
I feel that 250 may be enough, but I'm not taking any chances - I'll buy another pack the next time I'm in the store.
That would be 500 sheets for the cost of 100 of the old (known good and currently unavailable) Staples paper.
I have, it works well on closed grain (or filled grain) wood.
Here's it on stainless steel:
I just did, for a guitar amp project I'm doing. Seen here with 2 coats of clear lacquer over top to protect (and darken) the toner.
I'd be happy to do a side by side. What is the SKU or Staples item number of the HP paper? I can't see it in your link.
I'm away for work for a week, but when I return I'd do a side by side. The best paper is the best paper, I have no bias.
I'm away for work for a week, but when I return I'd do a side by side. The best paper is the best paper, I have no bias.
The paper you have mentioned looks to be exactly the same type of paper as the HP - I doubt there is a difference.
Seems to be some miscommunication here. Apparently, it came across that I was saying that the HP paper is better than the paper you recommended. Carefully reading the context of my post and who I was addressing it to should clear that up.
No competitions here. If you are getting good results (obvious from your pic) then that is all that matters.
Folks, look at glossy laser paper, either Staples brand or HP. Both have been confirmed to give great results.
I'll pick a cheap one up and give it a try. If it doesn't do the job, I'll return it.
looks great John, I think i'll be able to create some really cool designs with my colour laser. I think I will get some of both paper types I think 250 will do me for now, hopefully they dont replace it.
my confusion was at least as much caused by my lack of reading comprehension in the early hours of the morning when I read it, but it does take careful reading.
my confusion was at least as much caused by my lack of reading comprehension in the early hours of the morning when I read it, but it does take careful reading.
There is good chance it would work, but the problem (for me at least) is the cost. I get good results with the $0.20 a sheet paper I'm using now, so paying $1 a sheet for something that might only be marginally better just isn't worth it.
I don't know if this is the exact same stuff as the link above (info site only), but you can actually buy it from this site (scroll down the page a little).....
Soap Supplies | Wholesale Soap Supplies | Soap Supply | Soap Making Supply
Here is pretty much the same thing sold as "spy paper"....
http://www.kleargear.com/1815.html
I don't know if this is the exact same stuff as the link above (info site only), but you can actually buy it from this site (scroll down the page a little).....
Soap Supplies | Wholesale Soap Supplies | Soap Supply | Soap Making Supply
Here is pretty much the same thing sold as "spy paper"....
http://www.kleargear.com/1815.html
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All paper will disolve or disintegrate in water as long as its not 'sized' or coated - This is exactly what you get with cheap 1 side coated photo or presentation paper (£2 for 20 sheets from local supermarket) - the water can get to the base paper through the non coated side and the paper just falls off
Not a laser printer, but it looks interesting.
Full Spectrum Engineering
A complete setup, including an Epson R280, would be under $250.00.
Direct Inkjet to Printed Circuit Board PCB Complete KIT - eBay (item 230374236853 end time Jan-26-11 15:28:51 PST)
The downsides are you are tied to a single vender and the max PCB size is a bit limited. But the ability to print directly on the board is rather appealing.
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