Really? I thought the only replacement was a 6N6P from Russia. Does that mean you could run three 6CG7's in this amp (one for the 6DJ8 and two for the 6N6's)?
Yeah, I've spent the day searching for anything/anywhere that says you can sub 6CG7's for 6N6's; can't find anything. Also can't find anywhere that says you can sub 12A_7 tubes for 6DJ8's. I do think the Russian 6P3S-E will make a great sub in the EL34 slot so I'm going to order a quad of those to try.
I've got to order some caps for another project and I'm thinking of swapping the coupling caps in this amp while I'm at it. That's always been a good mod in my other projects so I figure I'll try it here. That being said, I'm still a dummy when it comes to reading schematics and I wonder if someone would be so kind as to tell me what value cap I should order. Unless someone has a "definitely change that while you're at it" comment, I'm pretty sure that will be my only mod for a while.
What exactly is "wrong"? I must be missing something again?
bigj, how does the amp sound?
Ian.
Statement was:
6DJ8 +6N6*2 (on your AMP)
replacement:
6DJ8 replaced with:6N11/ECC88,12AT7/12AU7/12AX7 (need adaptor), you can even put:6N1, 12BH7.
6N6 replaced with:6CG7/6FQ7,
At the begining, we design to use 6FQ7, but now it only appear on the Platinium version.
Yesterday 01:24 PM
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6N6 is far away from a 6CG7 or a 6FQ7 which are minituarized 6SN7 or theits european follower: ECC82 or 12AU7
The 12AT7 needs different DC / current than 12AU7 and also 12AX7. 12BH7 is close to 12AU7 with a higher dissipation.
btw.: The 6FQ7 types have been rarely used in europe...
my statement is clear; a proper design for the 6N6 cannot work properly with
6FQ7 without changes.......as an example...
6DJ8 +6N6*2 (on your AMP)
replacement:
6DJ8 replaced with:6N11/ECC88,12AT7/12AU7/12AX7 (need adaptor), you can even put:6N1, 12BH7.
6N6 replaced with:6CG7/6FQ7,
At the begining, we design to use 6FQ7, but now it only appear on the Platinium version.
Yesterday 01:24 PM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
6N6 is far away from a 6CG7 or a 6FQ7 which are minituarized 6SN7 or theits european follower: ECC82 or 12AU7
The 12AT7 needs different DC / current than 12AU7 and also 12AX7. 12BH7 is close to 12AU7 with a higher dissipation.
btw.: The 6FQ7 types have been rarely used in europe...
my statement is clear; a proper design for the 6N6 cannot work properly with
6FQ7 without changes.......as an example...
In the 6N6 position I see a LTP phase splitter with 47K and 39K anode loads and 27K for the cathode. We do not know what the B+ plus is, as usual, no-one posts voltages, which annoys me, as one cannot then work out what the designer intended. I cannot see why a 6FQ7/6CG7/6N1P could not be dropped straight in and compare the sound unless B+ is too high which I doubt. Of course the gain will change, but that's the user's choice or problem. Maybe it gets down to the phrase "proper design", something which many experts often disagree on, but on a few things, they do agree.
Ian.
I'm terribly embarrassed to admit it, but I actually haven't had a chance to listen yet
The amp arrived with a wiring issue and I haven't had a chance to fix it yet. The morning I powered it up for its maiden voyage it wouldn't light up at all. I took some pictures and sent them to Joe who very quickly got back to me and I believe helped me identify the problem. The amp normally comes with a voltage selector switch but mine was damaged/defective/missing pieces and as such the amp was wired for 230V in my 115V house. Joe responded quickly (on a Saturday during the Chinese New Year which is pretty amazing for those that know anything about this holiday in China) and graciously resolved the issue to my satisfaction.
Unfortunately, since my workshop is also my dining room table the wife limits my shop time and I just haven't had a chance to break out my soldering iron to fix the issue.
It's pretty said that even without hearing the amp I'm already looking for tube rolling/modding options but that's just part of my new addiction to the DIY thing. I am still very new and reading schematics is still not the easiest thing for me so I have to rely on the expertise of others to sort out the nuts and bolts. I'm studying, but I'm a little slow
Maybe Joe can update the schematic with some voltages if that would make it easier to work with. I think I'm the only one that's purchased this amp so far and I'd really love to hear what others think of the design/schematic and what if anything a newbie like me might be able to do to tweek things a little.
I think the reason you cannot find information about 6N6/6DJ8/6FQ7 is because the 6N6 is a chinese tube. As tubesteve says: few people in the west use this tube. therefore you cannot find the information.
But in China there are a lot of people use the 6N6 to replace 6CG7/6FQ7. It works.
I also fond some pages talk about 6CG7/6N6 in Japanese. But I don't know Japanese. So maybe you can find someone read the Japanese for you.
PS I search "6N6 6CG7" in Google
But in China there are a lot of people use the 6N6 to replace 6CG7/6FQ7. It works.
I also fond some pages talk about 6CG7/6N6 in Japanese. But I don't know Japanese. So maybe you can find someone read the Japanese for you.
PS I search "6N6 6CG7" in Google
I'm planning on ordering a pair of those. I've got a stack of 6CG7 tubes and wouldn't mind trying them in the 6N6 slot, just don't want to blow anything up. What do you think, at least safe from fire?
the 6N6 is a very nice tube performing similar as the 6H30 at different point of (- G1)operation. but most closesed is E182CC or similar with different pinouts maybe. most of they were computer tubes, SP. recommend are 7868 or 7044 tubes as an example. very nice ones.
btw: linearity doesnt mean everything.
sometimes ( after some beersugly girls may look nicer.... )
btw: linearity doesnt mean everything.
sometimes ( after some beersugly girls may look nicer.... )
Boy... you guys get really involved in a topic then it dies! LOL....
- What would be a like-same cost effective additional input unit to use with Suppo's GV since it has a single input only? I have at least 4 that's needed.
- Any news / updates / pics on the revised version with additions and fixes?
- What would be a like-same cost effective additional input unit to use with Suppo's GV since it has a single input only? I have at least 4 that's needed.
- Any news / updates / pics on the revised version with additions and fixes?
Yeah, it was also discussed on the Suppo EL84 forum. I'm a bit over it, we all have our 2c worth.
Mesmerize would be a nice DIY high-end input selector and not cost much. Google Salas B1 Buffer Mesmerize. Otherwise 6 RCA's and a 2P4T switch (4-way selector) could be built into the amp, or into an external box. Or just buy same at a local electronics shop.
Mesmerize would be a nice DIY high-end input selector and not cost much. Google Salas B1 Buffer Mesmerize. Otherwise 6 RCA's and a 2P4T switch (4-way selector) could be built into the amp, or into an external box. Or just buy same at a local electronics shop.
I think I'm the only one that owns this amp and I'm hoping to spend a little time with it this weekend. I should be able to at least give general impressions by Monday.
I have ordered a matched quad of the Russian 6P3S-E's to try in this amp (I have a pair that I really like in my Simple SE) along with some NOS Russian 6N6P's which I've heard good things about. I've got a big stock of 6DJ8 equivalents (or at least pretty close ) so we'll see how that goes.
I have ordered a matched quad of the Russian 6P3S-E's to try in this amp (I have a pair that I really like in my Simple SE) along with some NOS Russian 6N6P's which I've heard good things about. I've got a big stock of 6DJ8 equivalents (or at least pretty close
) so we'll see how that goes.
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