Thank you so very much! I've been going wild trying to understand all the parametres that allow successful filtering.
Well, the toroids were rated 4A by the seller, so I guess I'll have lots of fun then. Good luck with your speakers, btw!I know you can't bridge this amp,but I have two of them.
Can I bridge one channel from each amp-say the two left channels for the bass,and use the two right channels for separate mid speakers?
This is for use on jukebox bass speakers which are 30 ohm but being bridged and paralleled brings them back to around 8 ohms. On the jukebox amp one channel was inverted as well.Could this be done using the Sure amps?The other two channels would be driving two separate 6 inch 8 ohm mid-ranges.
thanks
Paul
Can I bridge one channel from each amp-say the two left channels for the bass,and use the two right channels for separate mid speakers?
This is for use on jukebox bass speakers which are 30 ohm but being bridged and paralleled brings them back to around 8 ohms. On the jukebox amp one channel was inverted as well.Could this be done using the Sure amps?The other two channels would be driving two separate 6 inch 8 ohm mid-ranges.
thanks
Paul
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These amps can MAYBE drive the same load with multiple channels driven by the exact same in-phase signal, and DEFINITELY NOT drive channels with signals + inverted signals
Hope that helps?
Then there's definintely a chance it would work. I was actually pretty sure it would work until yesterday, when sendler made some good arguments against it. I have it from a reliable source (Saturnus) that the smaller TA2020 chip can be paralleled, the "cousin" TAA4100A can be paralleled, 41Hz Amp11 is basically a paralleled Amp4, and those use TK2050 ...
The TK2050 / TP2050 datasheets will hopefully have the info.
Haha ... Yep, the DC must be nulled for certain. Then there MIGHT be other issues ... I guess related to switching frequencies etc. ...
Could you reconfigure one amp as combined mono? I don't mean bridged but paralleled leaving the other amp to drive the mids.It would bring ohms up to 15 but would be safer with double power.
I know the amp could drive this load on one channel (efficient speakers that originally had 28W-apparently the rest went to external speakers,although you can jack up the internal power to 64W),I just hate not using one channel on an amp.
thanks
Paul
I know the amp could drive this load on one channel (efficient speakers that originally had 28W-apparently the rest went to external speakers,although you can jack up the internal power to 64W),I just hate not using one channel on an amp.
thanks
Paul
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Getting out of my depth here so perhaps I shouldn't answer
... but that sounds a little dangerous. Can you clarify, especially re. the 15 Ohms?They're 30 ohm speakrs;bridged 15 ohm;parallel 7.5 ohm-without bridging 15 ohm load.
thanks
Paul-it's 11.25PM but the beer's still good and the music is great.
PS: Isn't bloody amazing;you're in Iceland and I'm in Australia and some fools want to control the internet.When I was younger you would have had to be a penpal-weeks between replies.
thanks
Paul-it's 11.25PM but the beer's still good and the music is great.
PS: Isn't bloody amazing;you're in Iceland and I'm in Australia and some fools want to control the internet.When I was younger you would have had to be a penpal-weeks between replies.
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Have fun with the speakers, Scott! From my experiments, I offer these three recommendations:
Full range open baffle. I can never go back to boxes.
Heil AMT tweeters. Spendy, but worth it.
Dayton RS series drivers. Like the poly/foil caps, superb quality at affordable prices.
IMHO, nothing else comes close. YMMV.
-dr_vega
It is amazing
Cheers to Australia. There's always something that Icelanders recognise in the general mood in South Africa, Holland and Australia. Funny stuff.And re. the speakers - yup, I agree, the 15 Ohm load won't break anything, it looks like. But you'll get some high-frequency peaking, which will be noticeable. So you'd have to adjust the output filter or do some EQ-ing. And you'll get less power out into such a high impedance of course.
Look at these Wurth coils:
http://www.we-online.de/katalog/media/pdf/7443556450.pdf
20 Ampere high permeability.
They are pricey but worth a try I think.
Greets,
Klaus
http://www.we-online.de/katalog/media/pdf/7443556450.pdf
20 Ampere high permeability.
They are pricey but worth a try I think.
Greets,
Klaus
they have two different 2* 100w amps on the website. i got the one which looks like the 4*100w but i ordered the other one. the one which now comes with a fan. my question is how much of a difference is there? al the reviews i have read are on the 2*100w with the fan. is the one that looks lie the 4* 100w worse in sound quality?
Worse reliability
The 4 channel amp is worse in reliability because the heat sink doesn't contact the chips well and the dc off set adjustment circuit doesn't give enough range of adjustment without a mod to jump some resistors. I would rather have the other, 2 channel board without the crazy piggyback output board but it looks like Sure is determined to get rid of the 4 channel boards. If the dc can't be adjusted to less than 5mv per leg, tell Sure you demand the other board.
they still have to 2*100w which has its own board but also the one based on the 48100w
does anyone if there is a difference in sound. the heatsinks and insulation on mine are perfect so i won't sent it back and deal with all that hassle unless the normal one sounds nicer. has anyone compared the two?
does anyone if there is a difference in sound. the heatsinks and insulation on mine are perfect so i won't sent it back and deal with all that hassle unless the normal one sounds nicer. has anyone compared the two?
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