hi, if small size is your prerequisite, why not go for sealed with linkwitz transform and a cheap-to-recone 18" beyma LX60 ?
"a sealed equalised subwoofer will simply wipe the floor with anything else, provided that you have done your homework. "
http://sound.westhost.com/linkwitz-transform.htm
TAD looks like cool choice for 2way instead , no ? I wouldnt sacrifice it for sub...
"a sealed equalised subwoofer will simply wipe the floor with anything else, provided that you have done your homework. "
http://sound.westhost.com/linkwitz-transform.htm
TAD looks like cool choice for 2way instead , no ? I wouldnt sacrifice it for sub...
80 m^2?! My room is only ~35-36 m^2 and there's plenty of room for a pair of 566+ L cabs, so I'm curious why size is an issue.
Regardless, different programs round off the calculations more than others and/or use different assumptions, but the cab will be large to go low at low distortion, so using the largest design is a good idea if you don't measure the driver's specs.
If two/channel is used, then double the single driver cab size/vent(s) and of course to get below 20 Hz in a vented cab will require tuning to the desired frequency with 0.707*Fs being the practical limit in a typical BR, MLTL, 4th order BP.
GM
Regardless, different programs round off the calculations more than others and/or use different assumptions, but the cab will be large to go low at low distortion, so using the largest design is a good idea if you don't measure the driver's specs.
If two/channel is used, then double the single driver cab size/vent(s) and of course to get below 20 Hz in a vented cab will require tuning to the desired frequency with 0.707*Fs being the practical limit in a typical BR, MLTL, 4th order BP.
GM
ark: Yes i buildt 2 single ported cabinets for them but i don´t remember the size on them. I made a pair speakers to my mom with a single TAD 1603 in bottom and a Jbl 2446h 2" driver with a tractrix horn above. A passive Jbl 3110A 800hz x-over. The x-over isn`t ideal but it works for untill i have time to fix a better. I have to take down the 2" a couple of db.
I can measure them and take a photo of them this week.
For my own project i changed the TAD´s to 4 Jbl W1500H in sealed 80 liter cabinets each.
Project TAD - MeanAudio.
The CAD drawing isn`t final yet.
mats
I can measure them and take a photo of them this week.
For my own project i changed the TAD´s to 4 Jbl W1500H in sealed 80 liter cabinets each.
Project TAD - MeanAudio.
The CAD drawing isn`t final yet.
mats
TAD boxes
ARK:
What are you planning to build? Sounds interesting. Do you have the 11" woofer (1102?) I 've got several extra (new) 12" TAD midbasses. I bought some 16 ohm, then bought 8 ohm by mitake. Ended up with 2 pair of both 8 and 16 ohm, NIB.
I still have not decided on a woofer. Have been hoping to find some TAD's, but may go for the AE's or maybe the Maelstrom 18" or 21".
ARK:
What are you planning to build? Sounds interesting. Do you have the 11" woofer (1102?) I 've got several extra (new) 12" TAD midbasses. I bought some 16 ohm, then bought 8 ohm by mitake. Ended up with 2 pair of both 8 and 16 ohm, NIB.
I still have not decided on a woofer. Have been hoping to find some TAD's, but may go for the AE's or maybe the Maelstrom 18" or 21".
homebuilder: I have two TAD 1603 (8ohms) two TAD TM-1201H (16 ohms - guess they are actual 12") and two Yamaha 1.5" compression drivers (16 ohm ) mated to big ol 340hz round tractrix horns... need to settle on a design and build a box.. was hoping to have 4 1603's to bring them to 16 ohms, put them in push pull config and reduce my box volume.. alas.. can't justify spending the money these days.
I'll post the project when i start it.
you have a few pairs of the the tad 11" Tl-1102? if so hang on to them or sell them to me
they are hard to find now.
.. i've since moved to smaller space.. they would be a more suitable speaker for my space now.
I'll post the project when i start it.
you have a few pairs of the the tad 11" Tl-1102? if so hang on to them or sell them to me
they are hard to find now... i've since moved to smaller space.. they would be a more suitable speaker for my space now.
Tad 1603 etc
ARK;
No, I WISH I had several pairs of the 1102. I have (8) of the 1201's; (4) 8 ohm and (4) 16 ohm. No woofers. (Except a pair of the NHT 1259's)
Have you tried your 1201's in any configuration other than sealed box? I built a 1.7 cf box sealed, and the driver was very impressive. I've been thinking of trying two of them in a box around 2.5cf, coupled with a yet to be determined driver around 4-6", and mate that with a JBL horn tweeter. Make a nice monitor.
I don't know how low you can push a 1201 with eq, or if it even makes sense. Rhat is why I was thinking of AE for a woofer. I'd love to run across some 1603, 1602, etc.
Another thing I'd like to try, just for fun is to bolt a 1201 to a large open baffle, and see what happens. I'm curious. There is a local place here that sells butcher block countertops cheap (minor defects), so you can typically pick up a pretty large hunk of oak that weighs about 100 pounds, for about $35-$50. Bolt on some legs, cut a couple holes: instant speaker. I have a large maple countertop right now that is 6' x 4', and thought about cutting it in half. It was an island countertop.
ARK;
No, I WISH I had several pairs of the 1102. I have (8) of the 1201's; (4) 8 ohm and (4) 16 ohm. No woofers. (Except a pair of the NHT 1259's)
Have you tried your 1201's in any configuration other than sealed box? I built a 1.7 cf box sealed, and the driver was very impressive. I've been thinking of trying two of them in a box around 2.5cf, coupled with a yet to be determined driver around 4-6", and mate that with a JBL horn tweeter. Make a nice monitor.
I don't know how low you can push a 1201 with eq, or if it even makes sense. Rhat is why I was thinking of AE for a woofer. I'd love to run across some 1603, 1602, etc.
Another thing I'd like to try, just for fun is to bolt a 1201 to a large open baffle, and see what happens. I'm curious. There is a local place here that sells butcher block countertops cheap (minor defects), so you can typically pick up a pretty large hunk of oak that weighs about 100 pounds, for about $35-$50. Bolt on some legs, cut a couple holes: instant speaker. I have a large maple countertop right now that is 6' x 4', and thought about cutting it in half. It was an island countertop.
mine are new and untried.
from what i see 1201's shouldn't be pushed low at all. I had intended to used them for a upper bass horn.. 100hz horn crossed higher around 200 hz but have no room for horns that large now so was going to go without horn and cross them even higher.. maybe from 250 - 800 hz.. narrow.
i think they might be used in the pass rushmore?
Pass Labs: Products: Rushmore Images
i can't find any information on the drivers used in that system.. but i like it.
would love to hear what happens with them on an open baffle.
maybe you could do something like this:
6moons audio reviews: Yamamoto SoundCraft YS-500
then use a sub.
from what i see 1201's shouldn't be pushed low at all. I had intended to used them for a upper bass horn.. 100hz horn crossed higher around 200 hz but have no room for horns that large now so was going to go without horn and cross them even higher.. maybe from 250 - 800 hz.. narrow.
i think they might be used in the pass rushmore?
Pass Labs: Products: Rushmore Images
i can't find any information on the drivers used in that system.. but i like it.
would love to hear what happens with them on an open baffle.
maybe you could do something like this:
6moons audio reviews: Yamamoto SoundCraft YS-500
then use a sub.
Pass Rushmore
Rushmore was as much the electronics as the drivers. Drivers and electronics were mated systems a very long iterative process.
Those were not TAD drivers, TAD had wonderful woofers and mid-woofers and great tweeters.......... just nothing that could be used as an upper mid driver.
Cyclotronguy
Rushmore was as much the electronics as the drivers. Drivers and electronics were mated systems a very long iterative process.
Those were not TAD drivers, TAD had wonderful woofers and mid-woofers and great tweeters.......... just nothing that could be used as an upper mid driver.
Cyclotronguy
I pulled my driver out of the boxes... this is the basic config i was thinking except adding a small ribbon or horn for the highest range just below the 330 hz horn.
any advise on alignment? can the 12 be pretty close to the 15 if i am crossing at 150hz?
was going to split at 150hz 600 then around 9k to the tweeter
any advise on alignment? can the 12 be pretty close to the 15 if i am crossing at 150hz?
was going to split at 150hz 600 then around 9k to the tweeter
Attachments
TAD 1603 etc
ARK:
Hey, we have the same carpet! Crazy!
Just out of curiousity, why cross over the TAD so high to the tweeter? Which tweeter? Will that TAD 1102 even get anywhere near 9k?
Mine is set up to cross the TAD 1201 to a JBL 2344A "Butt cheek" midrange at about 1000, and then to a JBL 2404 "Baby butt" at about 5-6k. I have all those drivers already. My TAD 1201 is holding up the whole thing, because the boxes are just too big as a 4 way. I'm thinking about an AE 15" dipole woofer (or a pair) on each side, or an AE 15" TD-M series to play up higher, and just eliminate the TAD 1201 from that speaker. John at AE suggested that idea. It isn't a box volumn thing, it is a height thing. The TAD only needs a 1 cf box.
That's why I'm trying to figure out what to do with the 1201's. A long time ago, Magnetar stated that the 1201 open baffle would only get down to about 600, which would be a big waste. I think a really nice monitor, to be coupled with a sub might be great for the 1201's. I'd like to hear any ideas. I hate to sell them...they are just so beautiful!
ARK:
Hey, we have the same carpet! Crazy!
Just out of curiousity, why cross over the TAD so high to the tweeter? Which tweeter? Will that TAD 1102 even get anywhere near 9k?
Mine is set up to cross the TAD 1201 to a JBL 2344A "Butt cheek" midrange at about 1000, and then to a JBL 2404 "Baby butt" at about 5-6k. I have all those drivers already. My TAD 1201 is holding up the whole thing, because the boxes are just too big as a 4 way. I'm thinking about an AE 15" dipole woofer (or a pair) on each side, or an AE 15" TD-M series to play up higher, and just eliminate the TAD 1201 from that speaker. John at AE suggested that idea. It isn't a box volumn thing, it is a height thing. The TAD only needs a 1 cf box.
That's why I'm trying to figure out what to do with the 1201's. A long time ago, Magnetar stated that the 1201 open baffle would only get down to about 600, which would be a big waste. I think a really nice monitor, to be coupled with a sub might be great for the 1201's. I'd like to hear any ideas. I hate to sell them...they are just so beautiful!
persian carpets are way under-appreciated these days, thing this one is 80yrs old i just can't hurt it. I mentioned the tad 1102 before by mistake.
What I have here a tm-1201. So my crossover points will be:
< 150 hz = tad 1603
150-600 hz = tad tm1201h
600-9k = JA6681
<9k (or 6k) = tbd (JBL 2404's like yours would be a great option)
Yeah.. the 1201 is beautiful but I'm having the same issue its so big, needs a tiny enclosure really wants to cover a narrow range. When i bought it I intended to use it for a humungous upper bass horn - now space prohibits.
all but the 1603's are 16ohms and over 100db efficient... this project is begging for two more 1603s in push-pull huh? they would be hitting the ceiling of my small room.. ugh. problems problems ha ha
What I have here a tm-1201. So my crossover points will be:
< 150 hz = tad 1603
150-600 hz = tad tm1201h
600-9k = JA6681
<9k (or 6k) = tbd (JBL 2404's like yours would be a great option)
Yeah.. the 1201 is beautiful but I'm having the same issue its so big, needs a tiny enclosure really wants to cover a narrow range. When i bought it I intended to use it for a humungous upper bass horn - now space prohibits.
all but the 1603's are 16ohms and over 100db efficient... this project is begging for two more 1603s in push-pull huh? they would be hitting the ceiling of my small room.. ugh. problems problems ha ha
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