Superclock is a downgrade from a C2.
And a truly great player is the player you work most on usually! The DAC chip gives a certain flavour, sure, but the greatness comes from mods!
I agree on all points, especially the C2 vs Superclock. The C2 is vastly superior to a Superclock4
and, as Matthieu said, regulating those driver ic's is a brilliant mod.
Lee
Couldn't agree more! I replaced a Trichord Clock 4 powered by an audiocom reglator with a C2 with a definate improvement. The C2 incorporates an SPower so in actual fact it is much cheaper than ALL of the big name clocks if you include a low noise regulator in the price.
Those chineese clocks are pretty good value for money it has to be said and they will for sure be better than the original item. Out of the box, they are likely to be comparable the basic DIY clocks. If you drive them with a low noise regulator (before the on board reg) they are likely to improve significantly.
Like all these mods, there is only so far you can take things with the DIY parts we make. The decent op amps, decoupling caps, diodes, smoothers etc that we fit, lift the players but then the bottle necks are things like cheap clocks and regulators. IMHO you should fit the best you can afford, even if it means not getting the part straight away. Having modded several players and tried several clocks, i'd not fit anything other than a C2 in my own player. But thats just my opinion of course!!!!
I do! The others are just not true DIY'ers
I have one Flea PCB left for sale...
Regards,
Ray
Last edited:
I've fitted 4 or 5 lasers now and I've only had 1 that didn't need a tweek.
As Ray said, you really use a scope to adjust the laser or you run the risk of damaging the new unit. However.......
Provided you don't make large adjustments (no more than a few degrees at a time), you should be able to get it better. Also, always make sure you've marked the trimmers before you start. Also check that the unit wasn't squashed in transit. If the plastic disc mount has been pressed on the spin motor shaft that will also compromise perfomance. Select the disc that gives you worst performance and use that to fine tune. Best of luck
As Ray said, you really use a scope to adjust the laser or you run the risk of damaging the new unit. However.......
Provided you don't make large adjustments (no more than a few degrees at a time), you should be able to get it better. Also, always make sure you've marked the trimmers before you start. Also check that the unit wasn't squashed in transit. If the plastic disc mount has been pressed on the spin motor shaft that will also compromise perfomance. Select the disc that gives you worst performance and use that to fine tune. Best of luck
Duff Laser
I need to sort the other one though before I return it as duff. As for the plastic disc/ motor being squashed, I think maybe it was, coz it squeaks a bit when it slows down. Cheers, Steve
Ray, UV0101, I dont have a scope, so will have to adjust it the hard way. I didn't realise they needed setting up after fitting. Where is the trimmer. I couldn't see one. Thanks for the advice guys. In the short term, Iv'e "borrowed" a known good one from my 63 KI, that i'm currently modding, and it works a treat.
I need to sort the other one though before I return it as duff. As for the plastic disc/ motor being squashed, I think maybe it was, coz it squeaks a bit when it slows down. Cheers, Steve
Last edited:
Steve, They definately shouldn't need setting up but in my experience they often do!!! It does seem hit and miss with them. You could return the unit and try another. I had a really bad one once that I swapped just the laser head into the old mech. That worked pretty well.
As for the adjustment, there is a small trimmer on the flexi pcb on the underside of the laser. If there is also 2 hex screws that physically move the laser mech in relation to the disc. A tweak on one of those hex screws may be better of the motors been squashed?????
My overall advise would be have a play. You could always return it after if you make a right mess of it! Ian
As for the adjustment, there is a small trimmer on the flexi pcb on the underside of the laser. If there is also 2 hex screws that physically move the laser mech in relation to the disc. A tweak on one of those hex screws may be better of the motors been squashed?????
My overall advise would be have a play. You could always return it after if you make a right mess of it!
Ian
I forgot to mention this the other day when I saw it.
|Ebay modded cd63
Intersting mods here. I wonder if fitting the bracing bar the wrong way round helps with the sound at all??? Also, i never considered fitting a 67 mainboard to a 63 as an upgrade before!!!!!
It did make me chuckle tho'!!!
|Ebay modded cd63
Intersting mods here. I wonder if fitting the bracing bar the wrong way round helps with the sound at all??? Also, i never considered fitting a 67 mainboard to a 63 as an upgrade before!!!!!
It did make me chuckle tho'!!!
I forgot to mention this the other day when I saw it.
|Ebay modded cd63
Intersting mods here. I wonder if fitting the bracing bar the wrong way round helps with the sound at all??? Also, i never considered fitting a 67 mainboard to a 63 as an upgrade before!!!!!
It did make me chuckle tho'!!!
LMAO - quote "(I HAVE SEEN UPGRADES ADVERTISED FOR AS MUCH AS £850, AND YOU HAVE TO SUPPLY YOUR OWN CD PLAYER!)."
Yes damping material and opamps is a major upgrade
Brent
As for the plastic disc/ motor being squashed, I think maybe it was, coz it squeaks a bit when it slows down. Cheers, Steve
Nah, that's coz the turntable magnet isn't as strong on the the VAM120x as on the CDM12.1. The clamp slips when the machine applies reverse torque to stop the disc.
It doesn't really matter, but if it bothers you, you can get small, flat magnets the size of pennies and lay one of those on the top of the clamp. Works a treat.
I wonder
You could've picked a better time of year to be in the UK Andy!
Simon
You could've picked a better time of year to be in the UK Andy!
Simon
Off to Papua New Guinea for 5 weeks mid-December.
Andy
.