does this mean 1.24mm diameter copper?
What is the diameter over the insulation?
To be honest, I checked this up and I am using 1,5mm2 equals 1,4mm dia single wire with laquered insulation. Check this out (in swedish thou): Svalander Audio AB, Egna Kablar
That greatly increases the inductance (L is proportional to area).
Bottom line, plug in the parameters for 3-4 m of #12 zip cord and you'll quickly see that invocation of skin effect is pretty much a red herring.
Tubes sound so much more "real", so we do not have to turn them up to ear splitting levels, to attain "clarity"Ancient Chinese secret in audio
New Chinese Secret: LA4625 / LA4628
Its a little car amp, so use regulated power supply--also there's a caveat of different fidelity at different voltages.
If you'd want to run it at max volts, then it takes 1 per each channel (also give the un-used inputs a load), for thermal reasons.
It does as you describe.
Whether or not its "good enough" is up to you, but I'd like to report that you'll have no need of a tripath.
However, much like the tripath, you will probably have need of the Dayton/Usher 7" or larger 4 ohm Reference Series as a helper to whatever little full range you might like. For that 7", a 1.3mh inductor and a first order series crossover. . . is probably worth a test drive.
This little thing needs speakers with a heck of a lot more power handling capacity than its wattage rating indicates.
Although the dynamics are similar to a tube amp, this won't do that "music out of the black" from the quieter half of the dynamics being decreased--no, instead its more like the louder half get increased. This is not the same--not exactly highbrow. Even so, its still helpful for music that was compressed during recording, such as the typical computer file or any new recording.
And, you won't get boredom. As soon as the cute little thing starts slamming out a shockwave of a bass track, getting the lowest notes harder than most 100 watt solid state amps, and you're caught dancing around the house in your drawers having forgotten to close the curtains. . . well, there's no need to admit to any of this, except that, as claimed, it wasn't boring.
Well they need to be properly engineered tube amplifiers of course
Um! This is DIYaudio here. Do you realize what you're asking?. . .
I'd reinvent the wheel at least a dozen times, include cats as necessary test audience, get cause & effect all out of order, and question everything. Just ask the solid state forum guys how much trouble I'd be. 
The thread name :
I don't believe cables make a difference, any input?
I´m not quite sure that it was started to discuss 1 or 3 phase electrical power but it´s a great thread
But if You just have spent a reasonable high sum of money on Your speaker cables You might be better of with electrical installation cables four twinned together - so there is a connection here
I don't believe cables make a difference, any input?
I´m not quite sure that it was started to discuss 1 or 3 phase electrical power but it´s a great thread
But if You just have spent a reasonable high sum of money on Your speaker cables You might be better of with electrical installation cables four twinned together - so there is a connection here
Florescent lighting isn't exactly new either. Anything that gets rid of the mercury will look good to the environmentalists. Do you think they will care about the 50K to 100K RF signal used to generate the glow?
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Well, that X-Fi Xtreme Music 51million transistor wonder can work as advertised, but not in every computer. As for mine, I've had it work decently only once. This was in an older model computer with a Via KT400, an Amd Athlon Barton 2800, and a Fortron Source 450 for power.
I don't know if it was the portion of the power circuit on the motherboard or if it was the power supply, and I don't know if it may have been some sort of timing on the motherboard; however, the X-Fi couldn't do the same job in several newer computers.
The Via KT400 had an awful Realtek aboard, which was ironic because if it had had the Via 16xx onboard, then I'd have had no need of the X-Fi.
If you do happen to have a Realtek on your motherboard, Rightmark can do something--if that Realtek measures out perfectly on frequency response then that computer will also support the X-Fi Xtreme Music.
Unfortunately, if that frequency response chart comes up slightly crooked, then the X-Fi Xtreme will play back dead, dull, and boring, in that same computer and not release even a hint of hi-fi.
M-Audio's version of the Via sound does seem to work well on computers that can't quite support the authentic X-Fi 51m transistor card.
You'll see it reviewed here a lot.
However, its not the only Via that's workable. You can use a really cheap one and just play with the output caps a bit to get a very similar result, plus the recording features will work easily (unlike most M-Audio).
Recently, I took a $7 Via econo sound card and paralleled its large output caps with bi-polar Nichicon ES 50v 0.5uF and with the Nichicon installed in backwards orientation (according to the long vs short pins) to help the treble a bit. RightMark confirmed that the touch-up was effective. The 0.5uF was slightly too large for bypass cap, but it did work as expected--very clear audio.
This was compared head to head with M-Audio Revo (earlier version of Audiophile 192--both are Via), the 51m transistor X-Fi Xtreme (now back in the Athlon Barton system), the Audigy2 (with the flakey hi-fi 3rd party drivers), the Soundmax aboard an HP DC5100 (a classic Intel example), the Via aboard ECS's "extra effort with the caps motherboard" G31T-M7 with a BSEL to 1066 Conroe (an energy saver Intel example), and the Realtek aboard Msi's Wind U-100 netbook.
Of course, the M-Audio Revo stole the show (its got a powerful preamp to that silver jack), closely trailed by the $7 wonder (no preamp), and one can expect a similar performance from M-Audio Audiophile 192.
The Audigy2 with 3rd party drivers did acceptably after a lot of tinkering and a few crashes.
The carefully chosen desktop onboard audio examples did well enough that it would be difficult to make an upgrade.
The Realtek on battery power aboard the Msi U-100 managed a clear presentation and a very good score on RightMark (not all Realtek are bad??)--it sounded like a considerably improved Realtek although it did have a bit of their typical coloration.
The 51m transistor authentic X-Fi Xtreme Music (X-Fi Xtreme Gamer, etc. . .) came in dead last, giving a boring presentation that only barely managed to beat out the "stuck at 48k" home theater cards from Creative labs, and it failed to beat the Rightmark Frequency Responsescore of the downscaled "stuck at 48k" fake/economy X-Fi. Perhaps 51 million is too many?
So my sample of the 51m transistor X-Fi Xtreme home theater entertainment device with its dead, dull and boring presentation and its daft price can go to E-bay, where, hopefully it can find a new home where it is enjoyed for its Midi Soundfonts. Its hard to admit that I was sold a bill of goods; but, with 12 out of 14 computers in my shop able to outperform this audio, there's no reason to keep the X-Fi.
Notes:
The Soundmax are highly variable; some are even worse than the X-Fi and some work just fine. The Soundmax that was tested is aboard a HP DC5100 with a 3GHz hyperthreaded prescott that is the 80 watt power saver version (so the power supply wasn't ruined) also having a 2mb (very large) cache, and so the multi-tasking performance on the test platform is exemplary. Other results may vary, greatly.
The authentic X-Fi X-Treme Music/Gamer does outperform the majority of Realtek and does have less masking than the cheaper "stuck at 48k" Creative Labs sound cards.
The Via onboard are easily hindered by the quality of their output caps, and these are often SMD which are hard to spot--quality varies.
The M-audio Via have preamps aboard, but the driver software is usually a bit misgiven.
The widely available super-cheap economy Via sound cards can often have performance that matches the super-spendy M-audio sound cards; but with no preamp on the econo version, and the output caps being quite large, these $7-$12 wonders are easy to mod.
For most sound cards, models with the preamp aboard weren't "touchy" on the cables, while others exhibited some small variety. Personally, I couldn't tell whether the X-Fi Xtreme's had variety with the cables because all of it was awful, except the digital output which wasn't tested.
With computer sound, the concept of performance by price does not apply in any way, except for the health of the computer's power circuits.
*much of this post is opinion/observation, except for Power circuit content and Rightmark content, which are easily verifiable.
Well the two cards test slightly different in terms of FR from the measurements I have seen (Emu is at -.5dB @ 20kHz and x-fi is pretty much flat). But I would also think the way they are installed and the proximity to the computer's EMI has a lot to do with the differences. Xfi uses the computer's power supply while emu uses it's own power supply. X-Fi's converters are inside the case while emu's are in there own chasis away from the case.
I'd sure like a photographic "How to assemble" for this four-twin speaker cable.
Also, I'd like to ask for a yes/no answer to this: "Is the speaker crossover 2nd order or higher?"
Thanks!!
1) Try the link I had in one of my posts. I don´t think I have any of my own
1) 2nd
50v can kill you! ("keep your left hand in your pocket")
An interesting stat:consumer audio/video equipmnt was responsible for 9 electrocutions in the US in 1997. In the same year it caused 1,900 residential fires which killed 20 and injured 110.
Thanks Kurt for explaining European grounding, and this will be my last post on the subject. (sorry for off topic discusion). The main difference, which is a big one, is the ground fault circuit interuption built into your system, which means you can "lift" the ground from the neutral (this is done in some studios here to provide a "technical" ground(just for the audio gear)). No wonder there is confusion when NAs and Europeans discuss grounding! And a universal audio grounding scheme like I have seen proposed on this site is not possible, or overly complicated. Your system is probably safer and easier to get rid of ground loops. Learned something new today.
Back to cables. (unless theres any questions)
An interesting stat:consumer audio/video equipmnt was responsible for 9 electrocutions in the US in 1997. In the same year it caused 1,900 residential fires which killed 20 and injured 110.
Thanks Kurt for explaining European grounding, and this will be my last post on the subject. (sorry for off topic discusion). The main difference, which is a big one, is the ground fault circuit interuption built into your system, which means you can "lift" the ground from the neutral (this is done in some studios here to provide a "technical" ground(just for the audio gear)). No wonder there is confusion when NAs and Europeans discuss grounding! And a universal audio grounding scheme like I have seen proposed on this site is not possible, or overly complicated. Your system is probably safer and easier to get rid of ground loops. Learned something new today.
Back to cables. (unless theres any questions)
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