Zigmahornet Plan

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Hi,

I was wondering if someone here who has built the Zigmahornets could tell me what the measurements should be for the items that I have indicated with an arrow.

The plan that I got off this site is not very clear to me on this particular area.

Please let me know the measurements in inches.
I have attached a jpg image.

Any help would be appreciated!

Regards
 

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Well, the vertical line you indicate is just the total height, minus the 40mm for the vent and 100mm for the slope (it's a 45 degree angle, i.e. a square, so height X & y dimensions have to be identical). The depth of the vent is clearly marked (40mm), so nothing to worry about there. The horizontal arrow you've added doesn't appear to be going anywhere at present. You can make the base any size you feel like, even stick them on a sheet of 8' x 4'. It's not going to do anything to the design.
 
Need Merrill DCA4 drivers

A friend told me that he was building a pair of Zigmahornets and asked if I'd like to build a pair, too. I thought it would be fun, so we just started building them today.

However, I just heard from Dave Merrill that the DCA4 drivers are sold out. I also found out the the Fostex FE103E Sigma drivers are no longer being sold in Europe and Japan, and I heard that the regular FE103 drivers aren't very good.

So, would anyone out there happen to have a pair of Merrill DCA4 drivers that they're not planning to use? I'd be interested in buying them.

Or, would anyone happen to know another 4" FR driver that would be good for the Zigmahornet?

Thank you very much for your help!

Mike
 
Hi Dave!

Thank you very much for that information. I'd love to be able to use the FE127e, especially your modded version of it, but I'm afraid that it doesn't fit in the Zigmahornet enclosure. The inside width of the Zigmahornet is 96.65 mm, but the cutout for the FE127e is 103 mm.

Actually, now that I think of it, it would be possible to cut out a couple channels in the sides to make room for this driver. I'd have to cut out channels or curves about 4 - 5 mm on each side to give a little clearance between the magnet and the sides. Do you think that would be a good idea? (FYI, the plywood is 12 mm thick.)

Also, are the other parameters of the FE127e driver appropriate for the Zigmahornet? (I assume they are, otherwise you wouldn't have suggested it, but thought I'd better ask to be sure.) I noticed that the Vas is pretty different from the FE103.

Thank you very much for your help! I was so bummed when I found out that Dave Merrill's drivers are no longer available.

Mike
 
Hi Dave again,

I was just looking at photos of the FE126e and FE127e, and I noticed that the magnet on the FE127e actually isn't near as wide as the one on the FE126e, even though they both have the same cutout (103 mm). It looks like the reason for the 103 mm cutout for the FE127e is the basket, not the magnet. Is that correct?

If that's the case, then there would be no need to cut channels in the wood sides to make it fit. I might just have to file off a little wood on the sides near the front baffle to get the basket to go in.

If so, it looks like it might work in the Zigmahornet enclosure, after all.

But I'm wondering if the parameters of the FE127e are appropriate for the Zigmahornet.

Thank you very much again!

Mike
 
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mluckow said:
Also, are the other parameters of the FE127e driver appropriate for the Zigmahornet? (I assume they are, otherwise you wouldn't have suggested it, but thought I'd better ask to be sure.) I noticed that the Vas is pretty different from the FE103.

I was so bummed when I found out that Dave Merrill's drivers are no longer available.

The zigmahornet was designed before TL modeling software came along so it really isn't optimal for anything. Its one real asset is its elegant aspect.

dave
 

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Driver for zigmahornet

I'm as new as new gets to this stuff. I bought the playstation one and t-amp with the idea that for very little money, I could begin to get a small taste of audiophile sound at home. I want to complete the system now with speakers, and was thinking of building zigmahornets because of the 6moons review and the fact that I have no carpentry experience. (the are easier to make I hear than other speakers)

Is the Fostex 127e the best driver to use, or can I spend more money (allong the lines of $100 per driver) and get fantasticaly better sound (considering my amp and cd player)? Or is anything better than the Fostex 127e going to be a waste because my other components can't take advantage of better drivers?

Is there a better DIY speaker design for someone new to all of this?

I listen mostly to jazz and am not interested in playing music extremely loudly in my 15 foot by 20 foot room.

kumaraka

Thanks in advance for any advice anyone can give me.
 
I was in the same place a few weeks ago that you are now. Though I do have the benefit of some basic wood working skills.

The FE127 is a wonderful driver and are impressive in the Zigmahornets I just completed, but if I had it to do over again (and I do and I will :) ) I would build a pair of Metronome's for them. As someone else put it, they are just as easy to build and just require different approach with the straightedge. The Met's, and the several other more recent DIY designs have the benefit of having been opimized for the driver's particular characteristics.
 
Let me second the idea of making a Metronome instead of the Zig.

Also let me make comments based on experience w/ my FE108eSigma Metronomes:
--make the port baffle removable! Access through the driver hole is too limited for easily adjusting the damping.
-- Too little damping causes unpleasant sound due to ringing; too much damping totally kills the sound; I used 0.5" acoustic damping foam w/ adhesive backing from Parts Express; I lined only the back panel from top to bottom; you might try foam from the top of the driver to the bottom of the back panel and some fiber stuffing above the driver (very easy to change.)
-- your amp may be too small to do this, but I find I need a baffle step circuit; for the FE108eSig I use a 1 mH air core inductor in parallel w/ a 4.5 ohm resistor; Note that even a half ohm change in the resistor makes a significant difference; don't take the output of a BSC calculator (like the one you can find at quarter-wave.com) as gospel; I ignored the zobel art of the circuit; you need to adjust the resistor to suit your taste/room/exact cabinet condition; you might try using an L-pad so you can vary the resistance smoothly from 0 to 8 ohms.
-- I used to think that amps made only a small difference in sound quality; I have found that some cheap amps make ghastly noise out of good music when they are connected to full range drivers. A decent quality SS amp should do a good job, and has enough grunt that it doesn't notice the power lost in the BSC.

Cheers, Jim
 
DCA 4 Drivers still available :)

Hi Kumaraka,

The Merill drivers are still available, here is a quote including shipping to Canada for 4 drivers. I received the quote a few weeks ago.

If you'd like to order two pairs of DCA 4s, just send $145 via paypal to "kent@twobaldguysaudio.com."

Thanks and best regards-

Harry, for Kent
Two Bald Guys Audio,

Hope this helps,
Eric
 
I built a pair some years ago and the Ziggies are Imaging Champs, perhaps the best I've ever heard. The Merril driver is also a nice sounding driver, but I've never heard them together:bawling:
Evidently Two Bald Guys had a pair at VSAC, but I never got in there when they were playing.

As far as using other drivers, a word of caution is in order. Bob Reimer asked me to try a pair of CSS FR125's in mine. I had to enlarge the opening for the driver slightly...no problem there, but when I played them it was pretty "conjested," sounding like there was a muffler on the midrange. I knew that the FRs were good drivers, having heard them in many other applications, so I was pretty concerned. Upon investigation, it turns out that the FR125s magnet structure is much larger and fills up a far greater proportion of the pipe than do the 1197/103/Merril drivers, effectively choking the pipe.

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
TerryO said:
I built a pair some years ago and the Ziggies are Imaging Champs, perhaps the best I've ever heard. The Merril driver is also a nice sounding driver, but I've never heard them together:bawling:
Evidently Two Bald Guys had a pair at VSAC, but I never got in there when they were playing.

As far as using other drivers, a word of caution is in order. Bob Reimer asked me to try a pair of CSS FR125's in mine. I had to enlarge the opening for the driver slightly...no problem there, but when I played them it was pretty "conjested," sounding like there was a muffler on the midrange. I knew that the FRs were good drivers, having heard them in many other applications, so I was pretty concerned. Upon investigation, it turns out that the FR125s magnet structure is much larger and fills up a far greater proportion of the pipe than do the 1197/103/Merril drivers, effectively choking the pipe.

Best Regards,
TerryO



Terry - I got a chance to hear the Zigmahornets in Bald Guy's room at VSAC, and yup, they do a lot of things very right, but deep bass and higher SPLs wouldn't be on that list. I'd suggest bi-amping with dual powered woofers.

The enclosures would definitely be a very easy build, my guess is simpler than the Metronomes (not yet having built a pair).

The FR125's physical dimensions would make it a better candidate for the 'nomes or MLTLs, etc., and of course they work very well indeed in the mini-Onken.
 
Dave,

I'm looking at building the Zigmahornets still with the Merrill drivers, based on space and WAF mostly. Well, that and total cost, as I already have other speakers (arrays, horns, Pi's, etc to do other things).

What might you recommend as a suitable sub to xover with the Ziggies?

I plan on running them with my nearly completed Darling amp and plan on using these for mainly background music while reading and such.
 
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